Dinoflagellates

A

adam_uk

New member
Im currently having issues with Dinoflagellates, can you give any advise to over come this problem using your products?

my tank is 400 litres after displacement. I'm running siporax and dosing pro bio s and np pro with A,B,V,E every other day. phosphate reading 0.008 elos and nitrate 0 on salifet

running AF phos and carbon in a reactor

alk is at 9dkh and calcium is at 500ppm a little high ! mag 1350

lighting is 2 x Ai hd52's on for 8 hours 1/2 power white and blue only

sand bed inches deep

iv tried a 3 day black out but after 2 days i it has started to re-appear :headwally::headwally::headwally::headwally:

any advise pls ?
 
There is not simple cure unfortunately to this sh.t... You can search here or R2R there are many solutions but no one works 100%. There are so many species (kind ) of Dino... Some use Metronidazol or bleach... Dino is hard to kill

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I turned my light schedule down to as low as possible for a couple hours a day, just long enough to keep coral alive , vacuumed the sand aggressively and ran extra GFO. Went away in about 2 weeks. I had it really bad on my new tank. Hope it helps, this stuff is ugly

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Sever said:
There is not simple cure unfortunately to this sh.t... You can search here or clay-boa there are many solutions but no one works 100%. There are so many species (kind ) of Dino... Some use Metronidazol or bleach... Dino is hard to kill

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Click to expand...

The bleach treatment is a risky move as far as I'm concerned. Those experimenting with it are finding that it can be lethal to fish. It's recommended that all fish are removed before starting this treatment. For me, that would require me to tear down my tank as I have fish that will be impossible to catch with rock work still in place. I've never had dinos, until now. I've been dealing with them for the last 5 or 6 weeks. I've tried hydrogen peroxide and I'm now using a product called Vibrant. Some have reported having some success. We'll see what happens.
 
the aggressive metro dosing cured it for me. When the dino started dying, I started getting cyano (this is good, in this case). Currently cyano is dying off, no dinos that I can see, hair algae starting to sprout up (again, this is good in this case).

In that r2r thread there's like 5 different dosing methodologies they all tried. I did the most aggressive one.
 
Yonp11 said:
the aggressive metro dosing cured it for me. When the dino started dying, I started getting cyano (this is good, in this case). Currently cyano is dying off, no dinos that I can see, hair algae starting to sprout up (again, this is good in this case).

In that clay-boa thread there's like 5 different dosing methodologies they all tried. I did the most aggressive one.
Click to expand...

Were there any issues with fish or inverts dying?
 
Turbo and astrea snails did die. I noticed them getting sluggish on about the 3rd day and removed them to a QT, didn't make it so I guess it was too far gone. Other inverts were fine (other types of snails, tiger conch, shrimp, crabs)

I did the filter socks (changing them daily like recommended), and spot removed any visible dino everyday. I did this for about 3-4 days after dosing stopped as well. I did notice less and less I had to clean up as time went on.
 
Yonp11 said:
Turbo and astrea snails did die. I noticed them getting sluggish on about the 3rd day and removed them to a QT, didn't make it so I guess it was too far gone. Other inverts were fine (other types of snails, tiger conch, shrimp, crabs)

I did the filter socks (changing them daily like recommended), and spot removed any visible dino everyday. I did this for about 3-4 days after dosing stopped as well. I did notice less and less I had to clean up as time went on.
Click to expand...

I've been through the entire thread. Can you tell be what dosage you used. I know some people only dosed for three days and others dosed for as much as fourteen.
 
I did the 250mg per 10 gallons for 13 days I thought. If they said 14 then I might have done it for that. I think the daily filter socks and blasting the dinos away everyday is really important to this method. I doubt it works if you just dose everyday and ignore the cleaning part.

This was after I did the 3 day treatment at 125mg/10 that they were recommending at the beginning of the thread. It helped but didnt clear all the dinos, and they were back within a week.

I stopped following that thread shortly after the bleach concoction they were trying out, since my problem was already fixed. Its 138 pages deep now, crazy
 
Yonp11 said:
I did the 250mg per 10 gallons for 13 days I thought. If they said 14 then I might have done it for that. I think the daily filter socks and blasting the dinos away everyday is really important to this method. I doubt it works if you just dose everyday and ignore the cleaning part.

This was after I did the 3 day treatment at 125mg/10 that they were recommending at the beginning of the thread. It helped but didnt clear all the dinos, and they were back within a week.

I stopped following that thread shortly after the bleach concoction they were trying out, since my problem was already fixed. Its 138 pages deep now, crazy
Click to expand...

Thank you very much.
 
I've dealt with dinos with my last tank which was full zeovit method. Dosing H2O2 will kill them and possibly reboot your tank but it doesn't fix the underlying problem. New water from water changes fuels more dinos. So does dying livestock. Dinos are an inherent risk with probiotic methods. A blackout is probably safest and hope they die off enough so the biology can become balanced again.
 
Any input from aquaforest team on dealing with such issue? Will dosing more coral B help?

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I don't believe that coral b would do much for Dino.

The first thing I'd look at is your incoming water quality. Silicates can really add fuel to the fire if you know what I mean.

Check the tds of your rodi water. Several years ago I had this issue and it was due to silicates getting in because my rodi filters were worn out.


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120reefer said:
I don't believe that coral b would do much for Dino.

The first thing I'd look at is your incoming water quality. Silicates can really add fuel to the fire if you know what I mean.

Check the tds of your rodi water. Several years ago I had this issue and it was due to silicates getting in because my rodi filters were worn out.


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Click to expand...
So filtration to remove silicates help? Like po4minus?

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ivanotas said:
I believe as standard the protocol is.. Water change and keep nutrients low. Anyone?
Click to expand...

wrong. you shouldny do water change when fight with dino. water change make them worst.
depend which type of dino you got. if you have extremely clean water and still have dino. try bring the NO3 to 4-5PPM.
otherwise try dino X
 
if you are not supposed to do water changes, how can I get rid of the stringy stuff? BRS TV says you still need to manually remove
 
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