Yes---with qualification: some salts are low in mg because (a) it's one extra cost of manufacturing and b) the salt is intended for fish-onlies, and fish don't use it up that fast. SO if you have a salt like Oceanic or a reefing salt, it should be high enough; if you're using a fish-only salt, you may need to test and bring it up once, and then expect it to hold pretty well. LPS is a stony and a particularly hungry one: if I hand dosed, my lps tank at 54 gallons would take down 3 heaping tablespoons of pretty spendy calcium additive a day; or pennies worth of kalk. If you have only softies, you're pretty much like a fish-only, except that the softies want your water balanced and grow best when it is. If they go wonky, first run carbon (they fight among themselves with chemicals) and secondly test your water and bring it back to balance. If it's work you're worried about (as who isn't, if they've tried hand-dosing!) I can say a kalk-driven tank is no work at all. Mine runs for months on end without getting 'off' if I just keep the ATO tank full of water and enough kalk in the bottom to keep the saturation level up (ie, there's white residue in the bottom, which just means there's enough down there to supply several refills of that ATO tank) ---and I don't have to touch it. I don't clean filters (a reef usually doesn't have any); and I don't have to dose: the ATO handles that. I test periodically. That's it. But with any stony coral, SPS or LPS, you have to supply more calcium than any salt mix provides. If I weighed the stony mass of the coral in my 54, I'd probably have 50 lbs of coral skeleton in there, after several years, and all of that was built by dosing calcium via kalk.