DivingTheWorld
Active member
It's definitely worth a try. I turned the reds way down and we'll see what happens. What do you have yours turned down to?
DivingTheWorld's Custom Leemar 80g Rimless Reef
- Thread starter DivingTheWorld
- Start date
It's definitely worth a try. I turned the reds way down and we'll see what happens. What do you have yours turned down to?
lynchmob3000
New member
I believe what I did was turn it from a 14k to 18 or 20k, which had 20 or 30 percent greens and reds.
bluecoyote79
New member
Awesome build. I am envious of how clean it is. I may have missed it, but where did you get the dosing container?
DivingTheWorld
Active member
Thanks! I got the ATO Reservoir and Dosing Container from a guy off eBay. Go to eBay and just search "Dosing Container" and he'll pop up. Very nice work and good prices. He'll also do some customizing and was quick to respond to emails.
DivingTheWorld
Active member
I'd rather not turn down everything to 18k or 20k because it would make my tank too blue. I'm going to try keeping it at 14k, but just turning the red way down. I turned it down to 15% at the high light part of the day. Too much? Maybe I'll see what that does and if it works, I can inch it back up until cyno shows up again.
lynchmob3000
New member
Probably not a bad idea to start off that low. I'm gonna have to look at my settings later tonight and see what I'm working with, I'm like you, I'm getting tired of the too blue look also.
DivingTheWorld
Active member
I thought I'd give a general update since it's been a while. I picked up some new frags and got them mounted up. Everything was going good with my frags with the exception of the red cyno issue in my tank. The change in lighting doesn't seem to be doing much.
So I tried the 4 day lights out trick (4th day blue lights only). I had the tank totally covered so no light could get in. All parameters stayed in check and I was testing daily. When I pulled off the cover on the 5th morning I found that the cyno was reduced very little. But...about half my sps had either rtn'd completely or partially... I lost one of my favorites an Ultimate Blue Stag!
So I don't plan on doing any more lights out tricks on the cyno. I've also noticed lately that I'm getting some varying results with my Hanna Alk and Calcium tests. I have a Salifert Calcium and it's always showed a lower ppm reading. So I ordered up the Red Sea kit (Alk, Cal, Mag) and I'm going to see if I can get the Alk, Cal and Mag to match up between Red Sea and Salifert. If they're close and Hanna is still off, I know which is wrong.
So onto some good news...
I checked the calibration on my Apex Salinity monitor last weekend after my monthly water change and it's still spot on. All fish in my tank continue to be very healthy and getting along. I finally found my missing Bartlett's Anthias, mummified behind the couch. At least now I have closure and the cat has been apologized to.
I have always been able to grow Zoas and Montis in my tank just fine. But my other SPS have basically just existed with no growth. From what I've read that is normal and often it can take months before they're comfortable enough in the new tank to start growing.
One of my SPS, a nice Bali Tricolor was one of my SPS which rtn'd during the lights out test. Technically it's still alive, but it's about 90% rtn'd as of this morning. When I first got the Bali Tricolor, one branch had broken off in the shipping bag. So I had remounted that branch on a plug and stuck it on my frag rack. Last night I noticed that the branch is starting to encrust the plug with about half the plug already encrusted. Amazing, the main frag rtn's and the little branch starts growing. My first non-Monti SPS to grow!
So I tried the 4 day lights out trick (4th day blue lights only). I had the tank totally covered so no light could get in. All parameters stayed in check and I was testing daily. When I pulled off the cover on the 5th morning I found that the cyno was reduced very little. But...about half my sps had either rtn'd completely or partially... I lost one of my favorites an Ultimate Blue Stag!
So I don't plan on doing any more lights out tricks on the cyno. I've also noticed lately that I'm getting some varying results with my Hanna Alk and Calcium tests. I have a Salifert Calcium and it's always showed a lower ppm reading. So I ordered up the Red Sea kit (Alk, Cal, Mag) and I'm going to see if I can get the Alk, Cal and Mag to match up between Red Sea and Salifert. If they're close and Hanna is still off, I know which is wrong.
So onto some good news...
I checked the calibration on my Apex Salinity monitor last weekend after my monthly water change and it's still spot on. All fish in my tank continue to be very healthy and getting along. I finally found my missing Bartlett's Anthias, mummified behind the couch. At least now I have closure and the cat has been apologized to.
I have always been able to grow Zoas and Montis in my tank just fine. But my other SPS have basically just existed with no growth. From what I've read that is normal and often it can take months before they're comfortable enough in the new tank to start growing.
One of my SPS, a nice Bali Tricolor was one of my SPS which rtn'd during the lights out test. Technically it's still alive, but it's about 90% rtn'd as of this morning. When I first got the Bali Tricolor, one branch had broken off in the shipping bag. So I had remounted that branch on a plug and stuck it on my frag rack. Last night I noticed that the branch is starting to encrust the plug with about half the plug already encrusted. Amazing, the main frag rtn's and the little branch starts growing. My first non-Monti SPS to grow!
johndoe7127
Member
Did you tried to increased the flow?
DivingTheWorld
Active member
Yeah, I have my two MP-40's up to 30%. I'm afraid if I go much higher than that I'll blow the frags right off the rocks! I actually get cyno growing right on the MP-40's wetside grills.
DivingTheWorld
Active member
Anyone with a similar sized tank and two MP-40's have a suggestion on % of flow I should try? Should I try higher? I've been thinking of going with different flow programs throughout the day, but what I've found diving is that flow is essentially just back and forth and doesn't really increase or decrease except in the case of storms or extremely close to shore with rising/lowering tides.
I noticed that my Shawn Bennett Yellow Tort is starting to encrust now as well. So it appears I'm doing something right!
DivingTheWorld
Active member
So...a couple of updates and a new plan for direction...
MP-40's - I upped these to 40%. I'll see how the corals and cyno react.
I've been reading a lot lately regarding coral colors. Mine definitely are washing out. It seems that there is correlation to ULN and lower Alk. Here's my last readings as of Saturday:
Ammonia - 0.0 (Red Sea)
Nitrite - 0.05 (Red Sea)
Nitrate - 0.5 (Salifert)
Phosphate - 0.00 (Hanna)
Calcium - 440ppm (Red Sea, Hanna, Salifert all match)
Alkalinity - 8.792 (Hanna)
Magnesium - 1450 (Salifert & Red Sea match)
pH - 8.14 (Apex & Red Sea match)
Salinity - 35ppt (Apex)
Temp - 78.4 - 79.6 (Apex)
I'm primarily concerned about my Alk. It's hovered around 9dKH and I'm going to slowly work it down to around 8.0dKH to see what that does. I'm doing this experiment based on the following thread:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2253547
Here's my Alk readings from the past month or so. One thing to note is that all of these readings are using a Hanna checker which I'm beginning to wonder about... As an example, my last two tests (March 4th & March 7th) I also tested with a Red Sea Coral Pro test. The Red Sea test read 9.0 for both tests... So I have a Salifert on order to try and find two tests which match. But assuming the Red Sea test is correct (I think it might be...), my Alk readings may all be high leading to the color loss.
MP-40's - I upped these to 40%. I'll see how the corals and cyno react.
I've been reading a lot lately regarding coral colors. Mine definitely are washing out. It seems that there is correlation to ULN and lower Alk. Here's my last readings as of Saturday:
Ammonia - 0.0 (Red Sea)
Nitrite - 0.05 (Red Sea)
Nitrate - 0.5 (Salifert)
Phosphate - 0.00 (Hanna)
Calcium - 440ppm (Red Sea, Hanna, Salifert all match)
Alkalinity - 8.792 (Hanna)
Magnesium - 1450 (Salifert & Red Sea match)
pH - 8.14 (Apex & Red Sea match)
Salinity - 35ppt (Apex)
Temp - 78.4 - 79.6 (Apex)
I'm primarily concerned about my Alk. It's hovered around 9dKH and I'm going to slowly work it down to around 8.0dKH to see what that does. I'm doing this experiment based on the following thread:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2253547
Here's my Alk readings from the past month or so. One thing to note is that all of these readings are using a Hanna checker which I'm beginning to wonder about... As an example, my last two tests (March 4th & March 7th) I also tested with a Red Sea Coral Pro test. The Red Sea test read 9.0 for both tests... So I have a Salifert on order to try and find two tests which match. But assuming the Red Sea test is correct (I think it might be...), my Alk readings may all be high leading to the color loss.
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What kind of media are you running? GFO or BioPellets?
I've herd of BioPellets causing cyno outbreaks, if you are not careful.
i have a tank of the same size as yours, i was running two MP40 on opposite sides now im only running one. I am thinking on switching to a Gyre or switching to the new MP40 that has a Gyre mode, so that i can change the flow of the water and have no dead spots.
I've herd of BioPellets causing cyno outbreaks, if you are not careful.
i have a tank of the same size as yours, i was running two MP40 on opposite sides now im only running one. I am thinking on switching to a Gyre or switching to the new MP40 that has a Gyre mode, so that i can change the flow of the water and have no dead spots.
DivingTheWorld
Active member
I run High Capacity GFO (11Tbsp replaced once a month), no BioPellets. I also read a rumor somewhere on here (can't find it now) that the Iron from GFO might contribute to cyno? Who knows... Maybe I need to increase my GFO?
I made some adjustments to my MP-40s last night and turned them up to 80% on reefcrest. I moved them a little down the wall to hopefully provide better flow throughout the tank. The problem is now the MP-40s are loud. I think I might need to try the new Quietdrive upgrade.
I was thinking of getting a Gyre as well for supplementation, but there are so many negative reviews on here I've been deterred. The most common complaint is that small snails (which my tank is full of thanks to Reefcleaners...) will crawl into the blades and shatter them.
Worst case scenario, I might just add an MP-10 or two to supplement flow from a different angle, likely lower down to the sand.
DivingTheWorld
Active member
I'm now starting to wonder if there is a correlation between my running of BRS ROX 0.8 Carbon and the bleaching of my corals. A few rumors on the forum seem to elude to that but then there are just as many that says it's all hogwash.
My primary bleaching indicator has been my Oregon Tort. When I first got that frag is was a dark and deep blue, simply beautiful. It's still fairly blue on top which more directly faces the lights, but it's bleaching on the underside.
When I first started my tank I set up my reactor to use 8 Tbsp of ROX 0.8 Carbon per their calculator which I replace every 2 weeks. I've noticed a general bleaching of all the corals in my tank. The last change about 2 weeks ago I upped it to 10 Tbsp thinking it might help with the cyno. I could be mistaken, but I believe my Oregon Tort has bleached considerably more since I made that change.
So tonight (just shy of 2 weeks) I replaced the Carbon with only 4 Tbsp this time, or half the recommended amount for a tank my size. I was going to just turn off the reactor completely, but I figured I'd reduce first, then reduce further later if I notice a change. At this point it's just another test to see what happens. I figure worst case scenario the tank water will be less clear. Best case scenario the water will stay clear and the corals will start coloring up.
Nothing happens fast in SPS tanks, so we'll see what happens over the next couple weeks.
My primary bleaching indicator has been my Oregon Tort. When I first got that frag is was a dark and deep blue, simply beautiful. It's still fairly blue on top which more directly faces the lights, but it's bleaching on the underside.
When I first started my tank I set up my reactor to use 8 Tbsp of ROX 0.8 Carbon per their calculator which I replace every 2 weeks. I've noticed a general bleaching of all the corals in my tank. The last change about 2 weeks ago I upped it to 10 Tbsp thinking it might help with the cyno. I could be mistaken, but I believe my Oregon Tort has bleached considerably more since I made that change.
So tonight (just shy of 2 weeks) I replaced the Carbon with only 4 Tbsp this time, or half the recommended amount for a tank my size. I was going to just turn off the reactor completely, but I figured I'd reduce first, then reduce further later if I notice a change. At this point it's just another test to see what happens. I figure worst case scenario the tank water will be less clear. Best case scenario the water will stay clear and the corals will start coloring up.
Nothing happens fast in SPS tanks, so we'll see what happens over the next couple weeks.
Patrick Cox
Active member
Hi,
Very nice build. You have done a great job on this. I am in the process of planning a new build and I have a few questions for you if you don't mind..
1. I am curious why you went rimless instead of the recessed euro bracing.
2. On your electrical panel, you mentioned "starboard". Can you tell me more about that? And how is that installed?
3. I notice that your energy bars are inside of the sump area. Do you worry about moisture getting into the units? Especially with the plug receptacles facing down.
Thanks!
Very nice build. You have done a great job on this. I am in the process of planning a new build and I have a few questions for you if you don't mind..
1. I am curious why you went rimless instead of the recessed euro bracing.
2. On your electrical panel, you mentioned "starboard". Can you tell me more about that? And how is that installed?
3. I notice that your energy bars are inside of the sump area. Do you worry about moisture getting into the units? Especially with the plug receptacles facing down.
Thanks!
DivingTheWorld
Active member
Thanks, I appreciate that.
1. For a few reasons really. At first my plan was to go Euro Braced, then I actually considered Recessed Euro Braced. With recessed, when you look at it from the side you don't see the euro bracing and it almost looks like a rimless. After looking at lots of tanks on the forum and visiting a few stores, I was convinced that Rimless is sort of the direction the hobby is going with tanks. Then when I found out the price for a rimless of the same size was 25% less than a euro braced, I was convinced.
The two main complaints I read about rimless tanks were 1, that fish jump out and 2, that water is always splashing out when you clean the sides.
I countered that by making my tank sides higher than normal. Generally a rimless tank can be build no taller than 20" This allows for about 1/2"-1" of glass above the waterline. I had mine build 22" tall so I have about 2 1/2" above the waterline. I have had one fish jump out since I started my tank. I could prevent that with a screen, but I just don't like the look of those. I have 0 issues with water splashing out when cleaning.
I think (although I have no actual experience) that a euro braced tank would be harder to clean the sides and especially the top euro braced pieces than a rimless. The euro bracing would also make it more difficult to access the inside of the tank and do maintenance, although not by much.
It really comes down to personal preference and what you feel looks nicer. They're both great designs.
2. Starboard is an inert plastic material they make cutting boards out of. People use it generally (as I did) in the bottom of fish tanks to prevent the glass from cracking due to rock slides or looking nicer in the bottom of bare bottom tanks. It's super easy to cut and drill through and available in a variety of colors through your local plastic store.
I used it in two places, black in the bottom of my tank under the sand and as a mounting board for my Apex. I just screwed it into the side of my stand and then screwed the apex components to the starboard. All screws I used for mounting, hinges, etc, in my stand are all stainless steel.
3. If I had space, I would have mounted those somewhere else facing away from the sump. But I was super limited on space so I mounted them as high as possible. I mounted them facing down so any water which hit them would drip off immediately. My fears turned out to be unrealized though and I have never got a drop of moisture or water on them. The rear of my stand is open so I don't have much in the way of humidity under the stand. And none of my equipment splash or emit bubbles (outside the skimmer) so I don't get any salts spray on anything.
I hope that helps! Feel free to ask any questions during your build. I was helped by the hundreds of awesome builds on this forum and I'm more than happy to pay it forward.
DivingTheWorld
Active member
Quick update in my quest for more colorful corals. My parameters are essentially unchanged from last week. I have made the following changes:
1. As previously noted I reduced my ROX 0.8 Carbon from 10 Tbsp to 4 Tbsp, or exactly half what is recommended.
2. I reduced my max lighting intensity from 55% to 45%
3. Today I reduced my HC GFO from 11 Tbsp to 5 Tbsp, or just under half what is recommended.
My Alk is still hovering around 9.0. I'm still waiting on my Salifert test kit to arrive before I start messing with that. My Hanna and Red Sea differ by about 0.3-0.5dKH. I'd like two kits to be close before I assume the results to be valid.
1. As previously noted I reduced my ROX 0.8 Carbon from 10 Tbsp to 4 Tbsp, or exactly half what is recommended.
2. I reduced my max lighting intensity from 55% to 45%
3. Today I reduced my HC GFO from 11 Tbsp to 5 Tbsp, or just under half what is recommended.
My Alk is still hovering around 9.0. I'm still waiting on my Salifert test kit to arrive before I start messing with that. My Hanna and Red Sea differ by about 0.3-0.5dKH. I'd like two kits to be close before I assume the results to be valid.
Patrick Cox
Active member
Thanks for your detailed reply. I appreciate this information.
On #1, I currently have a 36x24x20 rimless tank that I really like and I am in the process of planning an upgrade. Also my current tank has an external overflow. The tank I m planning will likely be 48x24 footprint. When I asked the tank builder about a 48x24x20 rimless, he told me that it would need to be made out of 5/8" glass, which I don't want to do. I want to stick with 1/2". So my options are...
1.1 - lower the tank height to 18.5"
1.2 - switch to an internal overflow
1.3 - add Euro Bracing
And I am not really sure which choice to make. I could probably manage an 18.5" tank but then on the other hand, I was thinking, why not add recessed euro bracing? When I first got my tank I had problems with fish jumping out. I lost a blenny, then a mystery wrasse, so I finally bought some recessed clips and put a screen on top of my tank. So my tank top is not clean and rimless anyway. And then on the internal overflow, I thought about increasing my tank width to 28" to accommodate the overflow but I am not sure I want to go that direction.
So anyway, this is what I am wrestling with. Thanks again and I'll keep following your tank.
DivingTheWorld
Active member
On my next tank I will definitely go with an external overflow. While an internal overflow is much cleaner looking, it takes up A LOT of internal real estate. I would have loved to go 48 x 24, but my wife limited me to 40"...
Yeah, I think with your options, recessed euro bracing might be the best way to go.
DivingTheWorld
Active member
Yep, I'm thinking the same. I didn't want to do it all at once though and have algae go crazy. So I figured I'd half them at first, see how it goes, then shut them off completely if necessary.
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