DIY 120 Gallon Aquarium Stand with removable center brace

ticklem

ticklem

New member
Ok so I scoured the internet for research on my DIY 120 gallon aquarium stand and I did not find much to go by. A couple years ago I did a 40 breeder stand and it turned out really well and the thread was very popular so I will post this one for others to follow along. Basically the plan is the stand with a gratine top and enough room underneath for a 40 breeder sump and a 20 gallon top off resevour.
 
My inspiration for this stand

My 40 breeder DIY stand

SDC10905.jpg


SDC10915.jpg


MY inspiration for the granite top(Since this tank is acrylic it is rimless so I don't have black rims to cover up.
IMAG0394-1.jpg
 
Ok so first thing first build the frame to hold everything up. Basically I wanted to have a stand with enough room to get into the tank from the front and get anything in or out that I want to with out haveing to move the tank. Don't think I will be able to slide this tank out fromt he wall like I could my 40 breeder if I ever need to get the sump out so I want as much working space meaning no center brace to block me. So after much research I decided to build my stand out of 2x4s on the bottom and sides and the top frame is build from 2x6s to support the weight without a center brace. So heres the start of the frame.

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20121107_143915.jpg


This is how the upwrights are screwed in
20121107_143819.jpg


This is bottom side up
20121107_143811.jpg
 
Ok so I skinned the stand and was not very happy with the look of the front where the doors will go. Basically I didn't want 2 huge doors with nothing in between. So the brainstorming began. First I was going to use metal L brackets and put a center piece of Oak plywood that could be removed if needed. Then I was walking down the isle at home depot and walked past the magnet door holders and my light bulb went off. So I will have the center piece held in place by the magnets so I don't have to have a screw driver to get it in and out when I need to work in the sump. I also like the fact that the front opening is 39" and my sump is 36" so if anything ever happened and I need to get the sump out I can just pull it out the front door.
As always heres the pics
With no center brace
20121113_203914.jpg


With Center brace
20121113_203847.jpg
 
Heres my old 40 Breeder DIY stand build thread
http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=253229

Things I learned from that build to this build. Make sure all the grain on your wood is going the same direction when you skin. If not it will look kinda funny. Not horrible but noticeable.
Things I leard on this build for a 120 Make your width 48" because thats how wide your plywood will be. Mine ended up 49" and was a little tricker on the cuts.
 
Nice idea to use magnets for the center mullion. If you're using a granite top, you probably don't need 2x6s for the top frame, since the granite will add a fair amount of stability.
 
I would probably remove the bottom magnet catch and instead drill some holes into the bottom panel for dowels. Attach these short dowels to the center brace. As long as you can tilt the brace a little out (might need to lean the drill or file the holes some), then pull up, it should work.

First it locates the center automatically, second it removes any metal from the bottom that might get wet and corrode (and then stain), and finally when you do need to pull the sump out you don't have to get a screwdriver and remove the magnet first.

But it may just be a personal preference thing and should be fine either way really...
 
First I though about 2 big doors no center brace and then have a piece attached to the inside of one of the doors to prevent light from getting out. Then after looking at many tank stands I decided that I prefer the looks of the center brace. I think if I attached it to the door I don't think it would open and close as smothly with the attachment. Plus I like to put towel bars on the inside of the door to hang a hand towel. The center piece is pretty snug as it is I probably don't even need the bottom magnet to hold it in place. Will probably poly the magnets when I do the outside of the cabinet so I don't have to worry about them rusting fromt he salt creep. I plan to have my sump almost completely covered so hopefully I won't have much salt creep at all.

I did get the 1st coat of stain on last night. Should have the granite early next week and ordered the cabinet doors yesterday from a cabinet maker which they said about 2 weeks on those.
 
OK so here it is without the doors or the granite top. So 80% done...I'd have to say I think it turned out pretty well. I did a mixture of minwax stains of sadona red with red mahogany to come up with this color. Then I did 3 coats of Minwax satin polyurathane with some light sanding in between each coat.

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20121123_111427.jpg


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Very nice! What did that one piece of granite run you?

Also I suggest some granite columns holding up the canopy.
 
well planned and flawlessly executed!

I went with the center "brace" attached to the door. So whenever I open the door the "brace" goes with it.
 
Fishgate I have a friend that works for a granite company and luckily the granite in our kitchen is a very popular style so they had a scrap pieace and cut and beveled the edges for $200. Also no canopy will be hanging 2 Radions of AI's above tank for lighting.
 
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