DIY: 29g Sump w/baffles

ok what do you guys think of this

sumpfinal.jpg


I did rough calculations using reef centrals Tank Volume Calculator:

This gives me a total of 16.1 gallons of water in my sump, which allows me 12.9 gallons of space for when my return pump shuts off.

I still think I need atleast 14 gallons of sump space just to be safe. What would you guys change to make up for the difference?

Thanks
 
If you are concerned with having the extra capacity, have Jason drill a bulkhead near the top of the skimmer area. Run a piece of PVC or flex pipe off of it to run off vessel like a 5 gal. bucket or something. Everything stays dry until the power go off, nice and simple piece of mind. Of course your going to be a couple gallons short when the power come back on.
 
TJ, what is the volume of the area that is White inside the box...


Never been a huge fan of ball valves on a sump drain return... cause more trouble than they are worth.


Bring A camera with you tomorrow. point and shoot will be ok, we'll lay it out on the floor, and take a pic. Then you'll have a how to when you get home.


Jason
 
Ya know, there was a dramatic pause when Jessica got to the 'got a drilled tank need a sump' step....

Should we call dibs on the drilled 40 gallon breeder? lol
 
no way jose, I'm building that sump this weekend :-) I'm only waiting for my stand on Saturday to see if I can use a bigger sump. :-)

High of 40 on Sat. too so I can finally spray paint my tank.
 
I used Plasti-Kote paint.... after it was dry, it made a very nice hard shell coat of paint.. give plenty of time to dry. I've tried a few different types, this seemed the best from my experience... I used FORD BLUE on my prop tank.

I've been waiting for "THAT" call from TJ. The one where he has figured out how much this is going to cost. The tank and drilling are nothing. The plumbing, by my estimates will cost 2 times what the tank, overflow, and drilling cost this poor guy... the one that was selling his 120, because it was an expensive hobby.

TJ, now you know how I can have 400+ into that 30 and it's not finished. You've prolly got all of that in the tank, and stand, and some of the plumbing - maybe more..
 
TJ,
With your latest design you might (MIGHT) get bubbles coming out of your refugium and into your return pump. Maybe another set of baffles??? Otherwise looks good.
Jon
 
The new Krylon is great. Sticks and adheres great to both glass and plastics like it is fused. I have a small amount of overspray on the front plastic cap and inside glass that I have been trying to rub or scratch off with my finger nail (approximating normal wear and tear the the back panel may see) and it will not budge!

Dries fast too. I had about 15 mins between coats at around 75 degrees ambient temp.

I put on four coats, would recommend six to prevent light (especially metal halide) penetrating to wall behind tank.

The Fusion blue is a bit darker than Jason's Ford Blue.
Highly recommend this stuff.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8705891#post8705891 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jmkarcz
I used Plasti-Kote paint.... after it was dry, it made a very nice hard shell coat of paint.. give plenty of time to dry. I've tried a few different types, this seemed the best from my experience... I used FORD BLUE on my prop tank.

I've been waiting for "THAT" call from TJ. The one where he has figured out how much this is going to cost. The tank and drilling are nothing. The plumbing, by my estimates will cost 2 times what the tank, overflow, and drilling cost this poor guy... the one that was selling his 120, because it was an expensive hobby.

TJ, now you know how I can have 400+ into that 30 and it's not finished. You've prolly got all of that in the tank, and stand, and some of the plumbing - maybe more..

yeah it's getting pricey now. The stand was $225, the lights are going to be around $300-$380. I still haven't ordered them yet.

I'm waiting for a guy to send me pictures of his "new in box" 36inch Current USA 1x150W HQI 10K MH with 2x96W PC actinics which he is selling for $300. That same fixture sells new for $450. I'm just wondering if the 1 MH will fill the tank with enough light, or if it will act like a spot light.

Its between those and an aquactinics 5x39w T-5 unit, which has gotten amazing reviews and can definitely support sps if I ever decide on keeping them.

BTW I'm redesigning the sump again...going with the totally basic sump/fuge design for now.
 
You've changed it so many times now, I don't want to hear about it again till it is done.

Tommorrow.
Nice stand.
 
as of 8pm Sunday night, the tank is up!!! It looks great!

I'll take pictures as soon as I get my lights this week. Right now the lights I have look very ghetto.

Also the mag 7 isn't putting out enough flow, so I'm in the market for a 9.5.

The overflow is a giant toilet every 5 seconds right now. Tomorrow I will mess with some air line tubing to try and take care of that lovely sound.

Thank you so much to Jason for making this all possible! He has spent many many hours helping me put all of this together.

T.J.
 
that is the design I used. I used 12" baffles too. I didn't put the sandbed in the refugium yet, but I plan on doing that tonight. I'll take pictures tonight hopefully.
 
Good choice on the 12" baffles. A little extra room for water when the pumps shut down is a good thing.
I put my heaters between the last glass baffles. This gives plenty of flow over the heaters.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8725619#post8725619 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by prugs
Good choice on the 12" baffles. A little extra room for water when the pumps shut down is a good thing.
I put my heaters between the last glass baffles. This gives plenty of flow over the heaters.

good idea. You use more than one heater? I was thinking of doing this as a failsafe if one should die.
 
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