DIY Auto-Top off with Solenoid

[Zephrant]

Dwall- Yep, that would be a nice setup, but I been hard pressed to make the time to enhance the project. I use a pressure tank so the RO/DI only kicks on when the pressure tank goes empty, then runs until the tank is full again, so I don't have the short-cycling problem.

I also use two DI cartridges, to adsorb any start-up waste.

I did get a timer that has four on/off settings per hour, and have it dialed in so it is on for 15 minutes every hour (or so). With the float stuck, it takes days to move an inch higher now.

Again, that is just a temporary fix. The better fix is at least two float switches.

Zeph

 

[dwall174]

Thanks Zeph

Thanks Zeph

I was just curious if you had a schematic that would allow the RO/DI system to by-pass & flush the membrane first? Oh well maybe some day Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢ll get some relays, solenoids, timers, together & see what I can come up with?
Anyway for now I will just manually flush & by-pass the DI then fill my storage tank! In my case because my city water is treated with some sort of phosphorus acid to prevent rust & corrosion, It really helps prolong the life of the DI to ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œflush & by-passââ"šÂ¬Ã‚. Once the 20 gallon storage tank is full all I have to do is let gravity do the rest! it will normally last a week to 10 days.

 

[dwall174]

The best part is to do a 20 gallon water change I just turn a couple valves!

 

[H20ENG]

Has anyone found a totally non metallic (wetted parts) solenoid valve yet?

 

[kstockman]

I think that you would be better off getting a plastic ball valve and using an air or CO2 driven acuator.

Just a thought

 

[neptune299]

Since it was stated that the internals of that solenoid were made of Copper, does anyone know of an alternative part? Correct me if I'm wrong, even with this small amount of copper, it would still be hazardous to a reef tank. ? I'm trying to make an auto top off which is connected straight to a 200gpd RO unit (fairly high psi). It looks like the method Zephrant describes in this thread is a great idea, but the Copper has me worried. Anyone ?

 

[Zephrant]

Neptune- I'm still using mine. I suggest calling McMaster or another vendor and finding a new part though for anyone starting an new setup. Just not worth the risk...

Zeph

 

[dwall174]

Has anyone found a totally non metallic (wetted parts) solenoid valve yet?

Yea Here's one But as you can see they don't give them away!:eek2: Hayward may have one in 1/4" that would be less?

 

[Mr_Quality]

Ouch, $240!

 

[jfinch]

Yea Here's one But as you can see they don't give them away!:eek2: Hayward may have one in 1/4" that would be less?

I use an ASCO soleniod like this one: http://www.ascovalve.com/smartcat/sc_app/sc_filter.asp?code=0%2C0%2C0%2C0&StateVar=1%3Dusm826079&famID=1&uom=en . It has a polypropylene body and 300 or 400 series stainless trim. Much better then brass. And I got it for a song and a dance at an industrial surplus store.

 

[neptune299]

Plast-O-Matic Valves has the same thing you are describing dwall174. Here is what they told me:

Wetted core valve series WCM is available in size 1/2" with FNPT threaded ends
For 3/8" or 1/4" you may have to use reducer or an adapter.
Available in Polypropylene body materials, with Viton or EPDM seals
1) Model Number WCM4V6W11-PP-----List price fob factory $119.30
2) Model Number WCM4EP6W11-PP---List price fob factory $114.60
Weight: 1.2 lbs
Delivery: stock item
Kindly contact our authorized distributor in your state for order placement and quantity discounts.
Available in 120V/60Hz or 24V DC
Distributor listing is given on our web site


I guess $114.60 is better than $239.99, but still too pricey I think. ?

 

[neptune299]

By the way the product specifications show the core materials are 300 series and 400F stainless steel, rated for 2 million cycles, and 125 psi inlet pressure.

 

[neptune299]

Thanks jfinch. That's just what I was looking for. A local company has that valve for $29.00. Finally something I can afford

 

[neptune299]

Does anyone know of an alternative AC float switch? I have glass sumps and I would like to avoid drilling them. Even if holes were drilled, you cannot tap (threading) the hole to screw in the switch, since it is glass. Ideas ?

 

[tang_man_montreal]

suction cups, old cleaning magnet, acrylic holder over the top?

 

[neptune299]

Is that not risky? Suction cups failing.... and the 120v switch falls into the tank. A hang on adapter crossed my mind, but would be bulky, and I'm sure the wires would still be inside the tank.

 

[tang_man_montreal]

neptune,
Depending on how you build it, we're talking 12vDC , not 120vAC.
The switch is waterproof, so it wouldn't be an issue anyways.

Ideally a hang-on adaptor would work. (what I use)

 

[Zephrant]

A Hang-on adapter, or a bracket you silicon to the side would be best. I would never trust suction cups to hold my float switch up.

If you did drill the glass, you could install a threaded bulkhead to thread this float in to.

Zeph

 

[neptune299]

My solenoid is 120v AC. The switch is waterproof, but is the end that the wires exit waterproof? With a hang on adapter, the entire switch, wires and all, would be inside the tank. Am I missing something?

 

[tang_man_montreal]

Yup..

Check the beginning of this thread. There's a nice schematic using a transformer to step down the voltage to 12vDC.