tang_man_montreal
New member
Cuz some people wanted to place it after the RO/DI unit, inline with their Kalk reactors and such.
DIY Auto-Top off with Solenoid
- Thread starter Zephrant
- Start date
Cuz some people wanted to place it after the RO/DI unit, inline with their Kalk reactors and such.
Lunchbucket
Premium Member
mine still works like a charm
Lunchbucket
Lunchbucket
Zephrant
Premium Member
My float switch eventually got enough gunk on it that it jams, so I bypassed it to go direct to the Kent Float Valve for now (Not currently using a Kalk reactor, Alk. is plenty high enough already).
The brass seams to be OK if it is upstream of a Kalk reactor, as the KR will precipitate out any copper that might dissolve. Remember that RO/DI water is corrosive, and will pull copper from brass where normal water (in your house pipes) will not.
But it's nothing to panic over- I used the solenoid for years, and there is no visible pitting or degradation of the copper part, so I suspect the is no reason to be concerned about that small amount of brass in the system.
Zeph
The brass seams to be OK if it is upstream of a Kalk reactor, as the KR will precipitate out any copper that might dissolve. Remember that RO/DI water is corrosive, and will pull copper from brass where normal water (in your house pipes) will not.
But it's nothing to panic over- I used the solenoid for years, and there is no visible pitting or degradation of the copper part, so I suspect the is no reason to be concerned about that small amount of brass in the system.
Zeph
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
After extensive research I have not found a single solenoid valve that is all plastic. All have wetted metal parts (even those that are listed as polypro or plastic valves). Most have a copper shading coils even if the rest of the valve is plastic.
The only way to avoid the metal is to use a pinch valve. They are ~100$ to start. The next problem becomes finding pinchable tubing that has a ~00 P.S.I.G rating and can still be pinched.
Bean
The only way to avoid the metal is to use a pinch valve. They are ~100$ to start. The next problem becomes finding pinchable tubing that has a ~00 P.S.I.G rating and can still be pinched.
Bean
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
I should have stated "within reasonable cost"
They also do not list the wetted parts and I would be skeptical untill I had the thing apart and could see for myself. They are likely all plastic at that price though.
Bean
They also do not list the wetted parts and I would be skeptical untill I had the thing apart and could see for myself. They are likely all plastic at that price though.
Bean
Mr_Quality
Premium Member
The brass would be more likely to dissolve & leach metals in tap or purified water than in an alkaline kalk solution. IMO, the low pH caused by absorption of CO2 into an unbuffered water stream would be the thing to avoid.
Mine has been working great for > 2 years, except that I did need to replace the solenoid once because of Ca ppt build-up causing a steady drip through it.
Mine has been working great for > 2 years, except that I did need to replace the solenoid once because of Ca ppt build-up causing a steady drip through it.
uscgbeachbum
New member
Has anyone used the SOV linked by tang_man_montreal? My SOV pooped the bed the other night when my tank overflowed. 
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
I got the valve from purewater4u. It's junk and they will not take it back. Has a copper wetted coil, and requires a pressure differential to seal, none of whic are listed specs.
Bean
Bean
tang_man_montreal
New member
Wow... thanks for letting us know Bean!
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
I just wish there was a better source for all plastic valves. The hayward valves are just way to expensive. I don't even think a large group buy would get the price anywhere near $150, let alone $100 or so.
I would like 2 or 3 valves, 1 for top tank top-off, 1 for water change bbl. 1 for future reactor feed.
Ohh well
I would like 2 or 3 valves, 1 for top tank top-off, 1 for water change bbl. 1 for future reactor feed.
Ohh well
uscgbeachbum
New member
So what are the options without being too expensive. I've had the solenoid Zeph listed for over a year now and haven't noticed any problems at all.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
I think a lot of people are running them on the output side of their RO/DI systems. I am not sure if poses a problem or not. RO/DI water is an excellent solvent... but people seem to be getting away with using the valves.
tang_man_montreal
New member
same here 
thereefgeek
New member
Here's one I built sans "float switch". It uses an air pressure switch to sense the drop in water level (approx 3/4" if you remove the adjustment screw).
It basicly works like the Spectrapure Unit and the switch is rated for something like 3 amps. I've had those float switches fail in the past and flood me out before. This one's worked flawlessly for years and I added some neon lamps to indicate "power on" and "solenoid open". I don't remember where I got the switches from, but I think McMaster/Carr sells them.
It basicly works like the Spectrapure Unit and the switch is rated for something like 3 amps. I've had those float switches fail in the past and flood me out before. This one's worked flawlessly for years and I added some neon lamps to indicate "power on" and "solenoid open". I don't remember where I got the switches from, but I think McMaster/Carr sells them.
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