diy auto top off

[GMGQ]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but there's no such thing as a 120V LED?? I know there are 120V LED Light Bulbs, but not the tiny LEDs themselves.

So you cant just soldier 2 LEDs like that?

 

[bstear]

They are 12V not 120V ..

 

[GMGQ]

I thought only the top 2 pins for the Coil are 12V. Everything else is labeled AC = 120V.

They are 12V not 120V ..

 

[tekknoschtev]

I thought only the top 2 pins for the Coil are 12V. Everything else is labeled AC = 120V.

Thats true, if my understanding is correct... the other pins are hot, and the NC and NO pins. I dont know, its not my design, but it appears as though he used LEDs. Not a necessary part of the design, but cool none the less.

 

[H20ENG]

You CAN get 120v LED indicator lights, but they obviously have a big resistor in them. They are for industrial controls and are about $20 each.

 

[Stile2]

I am trying to wire one of these up. And I would really like the led's power and pump on. If I move the power on led to the 12v transformer leads that will show when power is on, and move the pump on led to the top two pins on the relay, so when the float switch closes the led goes on.

Will this work?

One other question. I would like to use a 12v power adapter that is 12v, 500mA. What resistor would I use of the 12v 500mA to reduce that to 2v 20mA, for a 5mm led?

I can get a 12v led but they are 8mm, which I just don't think will look as cool.

Thanks
Keith

PS Once I get it up and running I will post a thread of how I did it, with pictures.

 

[GMGQ]

You can probably get a resistor and put the Pump LED across the 12V pins, so that it comes on when the floats are on (therefore the pump is on).

But it looks like you're still hooped to get the LED to show when the AC is plugged in....

I am trying to wire one of these up. And I would really like the led's power and pump on. If I move the power on led to the 12v transformer leads that will show when power is on, and move the pump on led to the top two pins on the relay, so when the float switch closes the led goes on.

Will this work?

One other question. I would like to use a 12v power adapter that is 12v, 500mA. What resistor would I use of the 12v 500mA to reduce that to 2v 20mA, for a 5mm led?

I can get a 12v led but they are 8mm, which I just don't think will look as cool.

Thanks
Keith

PS Once I get it up and running I will post a thread of how I did it, with pictures.

 

[guntercb]

I just bought one of these switches. Man are they slick and very nicely made. There are no metal on the float swith. Also the float switch only has 2 mA gong to it so there is no way it can kill you. I very good thing in my book.

http://aquadevices.50megs.com/

Cheers,
Chris

 

[tekknoschtev]

I just bought one of these switches. Man are they slick and very nicely made. There are no metal on the float swith. Also the float switch only has 2 mA gong to it so there is no way it can kill you. I very good thing in my book.

http://aquadevices.50megs.com/

Cheers,
Chris

First off, they are a nice design. Someone was convincing me that the solid state relays were better just for noise...

Second off... there's no way the switch would work without metal in it. They are a reed switch not unlike the floatswitches.net ones, which also work. I'm not downplaying your discovery, its a good thing, I'm just letting you know that there still is in fact metal in the switch.

And 2mA will still give you a poke, but unless you have some other underlying condition, you are correct, it shouldnt kill you.

 

[Stile2]

Here is a layout of how I think the leds would work, power on and pump on.

I am going to put the transformer, relay in a box next to a switch and outlet.

Tell me what you guys think.

Keith

 

[tekknoschtev]

Stile2, looks good. I cant verify if it will work or not, but what did you use to draw that up?

 

[Stile2]

Thanks,

I will be trying it this weekend. I will let you know if it works.

I downloaded a trial version of DesignWorks Lite 4

I just copy and pasted it from that to Paint and saved as a JPEG.

Worked great and easy to work with.

Keith

 

[smooth_9]

Stile2, from what I can see it should work. I think I will add a audiable alert when the pump is on. I have flooded the floor so many times with the rodi hose. I ordered 3 float swiches yesterday, and I will build from your design.

Thanks SMooTH

 

[Stile2]

I will build from your design

Now I am really scared I should warn you, I am by no means an electronics expert.

I will be building one this weekend.

Good luck to both of us.

Keith

 

[tekknoschtev]

Stile2, from what I can see it should work. I think I will add a audiable alert when the pump is on. I have flooded the floor so many times with the rodi hose. I ordered 3 float swiches yesterday, and I will build from your design.

Thanks SMooTH

I'm planning on adding an audible alarm powered by a second relay that's tripped when the second switch is open. That will stop the power to the second relay, and switch to the NC connection on the relay, causing it to send power to an alarm. That way, when its topping off, its not alarming, but if it gets too high it will.

 

[Stile2]

I like the idea of an alarm sounding when the second switch is open. Maybe something like this.

My only concern is for this to work the Alarm relay would be active while the system was working normally. How long can a relay stay on without hurting it?

Keith

 

[tekknoschtev]

I like the idea of an alarm sounding when the second switch is open.

My only concern is for this to work the Alarm relay would be active while the system was working normally. How long can a relay stay on without hurting it?

Keith

I'm not sure... I would assume forever? Then again, assuming never got me anywhere. I'm headed out of town for this weekend, but I have a few places I can ask if you dont get a response by sunday.

Assuming that doesnt work, the ugly way to do it is a seperate system. I cant seem to find the schematic for it, but it used two relays and needed a button to be pressed to reset the alarm. Not sure about this, and I'm frustrated that I lost my bookmarks last night. Need to backup more often.

 

[Stile2]

Well, I'm picking up parts tomorrow and will build tomorrow evening.
I have decided that I don't want a 76dB buzzer ringing if float switch #1 fails, but I would like to know. So I changed out the buzzer for another led.

Parts List
2 - Float Switches from Floatswitches.net $6.00 each
12v DPDT Relay $8.39
12v Transformer 6.29
12v SPDT Relay 4.29
Red LED 1.99
Green LED 1.39
Yellow LED 2.69
3 - 470 Ohm Res .99
Regular Switch On Hand

Total Around $40

Not the cheapest but I think it will do the job.

I going to build it without an enclosure first to make sure it works.
I will add it to my power center later.

I will take pictures of the build and post.

Keith

 

[billag]

Your 12V transformer ... it's not just a straight transformer as shown in the schematic, is it?

If it is, then you'll be getting 12V AC, not 12V DC.

 

[billag]

I am by no means an expert ...

Here's a simple power supply. After the transformer, you need to put the stepped down AC into a bridge rectifier, a cap, a +12V regulator, and then another cap.

The 7812 is a fixed 12V regulator available at RS. You can get the rectifier and caps there as well. I don't know what values you should use ... if you Google the part (like 7812 regulator) you can probably find some application notes.

Now this all being said, lots of folks will just go out and buy one of those pre-built AC-to-DC wall mount power supplies that have this all built in and then wire it to their circuit.

Another thing to remember with the LEDs, that current will only flow one way through them, so it matters how you connect them.

Good luck!