DIY Gate Valve Mod for Skimmers

[coralfragger101]

I have not seen a thread on this so I figured that I would post one since I just completed doing this mod on an old ASM G3 that I have as an extra skimmer.

I don't know how many of the newer skimmers are now coming like this but I got the idea from the Orca 200 that I just purchased. All you do to raise and lower the water level is to twist the top of the output riser tube.

This little tutorial won't be filled with lavish photos and intricate details as it is really very simple and you can get the idea of what I've done from really just one photo.

The ASM G3's output riser is 1 1/4 " PVC so that's what I'm working with here.

Steps included:

1) Take a piece of PVC and cut it at an angle. I used the opening in the T PVC to determine the angle.

2) Make two grooves with a dremel in the piece of PVC.

3) Grease up 2 O-Rings with some Dow 111 and slip them into the grooves.

4) Sand out the inside of a T piece of PVC so that the piece you just made will slide all the way across the opening.

That's it - you're done.

The new valve will now look like this when halfway open:

And this when it is closed:

I did this all with just a saw and a dremel. Everything was really done just freehand and it works. When closed, some water does leak around and exits out the output BUT I'm feeding the skimmer with just a max-jet 600 and when the valve is closed it still has enough umph to raise the water level in the skimmer higher than you would ever want to set it.

IF you could put the T on a drill press and use a perfect size hole saw (if there even is one that size) to ream out the T just a little bit I'm sure you would get things to work a bit smoother but what I've done works and water DOES NOT leak from where I've inserted the O-Rings.

 

[hllywd]

Nice. I'm going to give it a try. I bought a gate valve and tried it but really didn't like the results because of all the weight hanging from the outlet, not to mention my skimmer is shoe horned into my sump anyway . This shouldn't be much different from stock relative to both of those concerns.

Tim

 

[coralfragger101]

I'm glad someone is going to give it a whirl.

You don't have to worry about reaming out the T piece too far down. When completed the bottom pipe that is glue in will be the "stop" for the piece you are making. The "flat" part of the piece you make will rest right on top of the bottom piece that is glued in.

 

[seawandrr]

I think it would be interesting to play with the shape/angle of the end of the pipe.

My OctoEXT200 with the wedge pipe is *extremely* sensitive to the tiniest movements when trying to dial it in.

With a bit of trial and error, it should be possible to flatten out the angle of the pipe near the sweet spot, and make it far less sensitive to adjustments.

Disclaimer: Of course this only works for a specific water height, sump location, etc, as each sweet spot is going to be individual to these variables. Even changing from Mesh to Pin would shift it.

 

[coralfragger101]

I'm sure you could make adjustments to the angle to lower the sensitivity.

I won't be trying it with mine though since this skimmer is just an extra, it won't be put to use to even find the sweet spot let alone make adjustments to it.

I may even be selling it.

 

[Bamm Bamm]

I wish my dremel wasn;t in storage I'd try this out today