DIY led build incoming

hasek1639

New member
Ok all i am to that point in putting the tank up i need lighting. so i am looking at doing a diy led build. I know we have a ton of knowledge here so i am hoping to tap it alittle. The tank i am putting it over is a 120gal 4x2x2. I am thinking 68 lights tell me what you think. 6 dimable drivers. first driver 12 royal blue, second driver 12 blue, third driver 12 cool white, fourth driver 12 warm white, 5th driver 4 cyan, red and green, 6th driver 8 violet. i am running a typhoon led controller into these. tell me if i am going over kill or not. Any help would be great.

THANKS!!!!!!!!
 
I've got a DIY build over my 75g. ReefBoarder has a DIY build over his 120. I can't remember how many he is using though. He's got a build thread with pics floating around somewhere.

I like the idea of mixing up the colors, but I would be wary of putting 3 different colors on one driver. You couldn't change each color independently (the cyan, red, or green) if they're all on the same driver. Admittedly, I haven't really looked into those colors much. I went with a couple different whites on one driver and am happy with the results.
 
yea i am trying to play with the spectrum alot and see if i can get a really great balance. the down side the typhoon controller only allows me up to 8 drivers attached so i have to combine colors get i want the uv on its own part of the controller. I see what you are saying though.
 
Is the Typhon 8 drivers, or 8 channels? Could you combine the blue and royal blue onto the same channel if you started to run out of channels?
 
The Typhon (only one o ;) ) has four channels, and the maximum number of drivers you can attach to a given channel depends on the current each driver pulls. Many common drivers pull so little you could put more drivers on each channel than you could ever possibly need - and if you did need more capacity, you could always swap to a larger output transistor for that channel. The "stock" part specified in the design can theoretically handle 100mA of current.

If you want more than 4 channels of control you can just use multiple Typhons. Or use an I2C-based driver (terahz's LM3409 driver for instance).

With reference to your build, it's hard to talk about the specifics - i.e. number of LEDs of a given color - without knowing more details. Do you have a model and bin of LED in mind for each color? What drivers? What nominal current? What optics? What height above the tank?
 
This thread I'm interested in....wanting to build an LED light system awhile now....hopefully costs of materials will/have come down in prices...this would be for a 90 gallon setup....thxs
 
Do you have a model and bin of LED in mind for each color? I am going cree for everything expect the cyan which would be philips.
What drivers? dimmable meanwell drivers.
What nominal current? Not sure here
What optics? for the greens,red and cyan and UV I was going 80's i think. 60's on the rest. but still thinking.
What height above the tank?
probably 6-9in above the water.

I hope that all helps. I am looking at buying the rest from rapidled. cause i got a deal on 4 drivers and the typhoon i couldn't pass up.
 
hopefully costs of materials will/have come down in prices...

Some materials are pretty much market price based on the raw materials, which are stable (i.e. heatsinks aren't going to get any cheaper).

Drivers are pretty much stable at this point in terms of price and features, too.

The LEDs themselves have sort of followed Moore's Law in recent years but this is easy to misinterpret depending on how you define performance. If you're looking at output per dollar spent it's pretty accurate. If you try to look at efficiency per dollar spent (which IMHO is a more important indicator of performance) then there's going to be a point of diminishing returns within the next few years as efficiency is ultimately capped at 100%...

What this all means to DIY hobbyists is that total cost to build a given rig with a given set of features has definitely come down but there's going to be a floor at some point soon. The bext fixture you could build for $x a year ago might cost 30 or 40% less than that today though.

I see the future involving better feature availability vs better performance, i.e. controllers that are more sophisticted and "plug and play" modular multichip LEDs that actually work well and perform nearly as well as single chip LEDs (today's multichip LEDs are nice and all, and worth playing with, but can't touch single chip in terms of performance).

Do you have a model and bin of LED in mind for each color? I am going cree for everything expect the cyan which would be philips.
What drivers? dimmable meanwell drivers.
What nominal current? Not sure here
What optics? for the greens,red and cyan and UV I was going 80's i think. 60's on the rest. but still thinking.
What height above the tank?
probably 6-9in above the water.

I hope that all helps. I am looking at buying the rest from rapidled. cause i got a deal on 4 drivers and the typhoon i couldn't pass up.

Do you know what specific models of Cree though? There's potentially a several hundred precent difference in performance from, say, an XP-E to an XM-L.

Do you want to light the whole tank evenly or will you be targeting only the areas with corals?
 
Do you know what specific models of Cree though?
heres my list i have

Philips Rebel Cyan - 4
CREE CP-E Green - 4
CREE XP-E Red - 4
CREE XP-E Blue - 12
CREE XT-E Royal Blue - 12
CREE XP-G 5watt cool white - 12
CREE XP-G 5watt warm white - 12
violet UV led - 8

Do you want to light the whole tank evenly or will you be targeting only the areas with corals?

lighting the whole tank.
 
ELN 60 48 drivers I would guess?

I'd stick with either all 80 degree optics or bump the fixture higher. 60's on some of the LEDs at that height will give you trouble with hot spots - I'd probably aim for 12" - 16" if you did want the 60's.

Gut feel, you should have enough intensity but I'd probably be more comfortable with several more RBs and a few more whites. Maybe a whole additional string of 12 RBs and just add 1 or 2 more of each white to each driver, or swap some of the other monochromatics for whites.
 
Hasek, have you seen an LED rig in person? I ended up seeing a few before I built mine, and actually seeing a DIY rig helped me decide on what I wanted. If you haven't seen any, you're more than welcome to swing by and check mine out sometime.
 
No problem. Seriously though, I'm a little ways away from you, but I would definitely suggest trying to see someone's LED build in person. There are a few people in Rochester that I know would welcome you to check them out.

I live about 5 minutes from The Reef Shoppe and Caribbean Forest. You (and anyone else looking to get into LEDs) are more than welcome to come by and check them out. PM me if you're interested.
 
Differences between any makes or models of LEDs can be discussed around certain parameters, so you need to understand what those parameters mean before comparing LEDs.

HP LEDs are typically compared based on brightness and spectrum. Basically, LEDs are either monochromatic (one color) or wide spectrum (white). The ways you compare brightness and spectrum differ based on the color of the LED. A white LED might be measured by lumens per watt (lm/w) for brightness and by a color bin that specifies a spot on the CIE1931 space, or less accurately by a kelvin temperature. When you are trying to decide which white LED is best, start by comparing LEDs that are similar spectrum (i.e. warm white vs. warm white, don't compare one vendor's warm white to another vendor's cool white). Also make sure the specs refer to the same operational parameters - you don't want to be looking at one LED's efficiency numbers at 350mA and another's at 1.5A. Then, compare the lm/w numbers - higher is better.

Comparing monochromatic LEDs is similar except the color is specified by a wavelength (nm) and intensity is sometimes specified in milliwats instead of lumens.

All that said, the cliff notes version is that, more or less, the best products from Cree are typically better performing than anyone else's best products. If you have specific bins and models of Cree to compare to specific bins and models of something from EPIStar, we can look at the numbers, but generally Cree's products are going to perform better.

That said, you can definitely build an effective rig with EPIStar LEDs, but it probably won't perform as efficiently as a carefully designed rig with Cree LEDs. Basically it's a balancing act between upfront cost (the EPIStar LEDs are probably cheaper) vs longterm operating costs (the Crees will probably be cheaper thanks to better efficiency).

It's also important to consider other factors, like beam width (some of the off-brand LEDs come with a narrower beam width, which gives the appearance of greater intensity since the light is focused on a small area). Also, optics availability - it sucks to build a rig, decide you want to play with different choices for optics, and then disover that the LED you picked doesn't have any optics available other than the ones you already have.
 
ok so I should for sure be looking at CREE and I am going to buy it from rapidled I think unless theres a better place to buy them from.
 
I would trust rapidled to sell you good stuff and their prices are usually good.

Whatever you do, I would plan for tweaking. LEDs can give infinite flexibility but only if you allow for it in your design.

And yeah, go see some in person so you get a feel for how they work.
 
Rapidled is definitely a good site. They have good prices, but I was able to find a site that had better prices on a couple of my LEDs, so I ordered a few of my LEDs there. Rapidled had the best price on most items that I found though, so they got the bulk of my order.
 
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