DIY LED Fixture - Pointers for future build

[lingwendil]

Is there a provision to bring a couple of the existing channels PWM off board to "double up" drivers for multiple strings per channel? Is there a way to bring a couple additional channels of PWM out to external drivers for applications that need more than six channels?

Not asking for changes, just curious.

 

[MrMan]

Is there a provision to bring a couple of the existing channels PWM off board to "double up" drivers for multiple strings per channel? Is there a way to bring a couple additional channels of PWM out to external drivers for applications that need more than six channels?

Not asking for changes, just curious.

I wanted to add a connector to bring out more of the PWM signals (we have 16 why not make them available) but I ran out of space to fit anything. I figured since it was designed to be an all-in-one solution (dimming, fan control and 6 channels) i figured it was OK to cut it.

What I could do is just add solder pads in between the outputs for the PWM signals of the main 6 channels. This would let you add additional drivers using the same PWM (ie if you wanted 6 COBs to run off channel 1).

 

[lingwendil]

That's perfect.

Six channels of control is plenty for 99% of the uses I would have in mind anyway. Simply running some wire off board to another set of drivers will work just fine.

Anybody want to split a pack of ten PCBs?

 

[MrMan]

That's perfect.

Six channels of control is plenty for 99% of the uses I would have in mind anyway. Simply running some wire off board to another set of drivers will work just fine.

Anybody want to split a pack of ten PCBs?

Hey I have a quick question for you, how wide are the T-Slots? I got a few drawings from RapidLED but they didn't include that dimension so just want to make sure the holes I make are the correct size.

Also, I was able to fit a small pitch header on the PCB to bring out 8 PWM signals (first 6 used on PCB plus 2 extra).

 

[oreo57]

suggest the HV version of the driver chip..

 

[lingwendil]

Hey I have a quick question for you, how wide are the T-Slots? I got a few drawings from RapidLED but they didn't include that dimension so just want to make sure the holes I make are the correct size.

I'll try to get some dimensions for you once I'm home from work.

Also, I was able to fit a small pitch header on the PCB to bring out 8 PWM signals (first 6 used on PCB plus 2 extra).

:thumbsup: Cool. Easier to have it if it's needed later, and being able to plug in a harness to feed offboard components is a nice thing for sure!

suggest the HV version of the driver chip..

They are pin-compatible, right?

 

[oreo57]

Should be..
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...lm3414hv.pdf&usg=AOvVaw2L2qww9l1hiW6xxM5bpk6a

 

[MrMan]

I'll try to get some dimensions for you once I'm home from work.

:thumbsup: Cool. Easier to have it if it's needed later, and being able to plug in a harness to feed offboard components is a nice thing for sure!

They are pin-compatible, right?

They are pin compatible, plan on using the high voltage version of the LED driver and DC-DC driver so the input range is 20-60V with output current range of 350-1000mA.

From what I found the T-slots are designed for 4-40 screws so I went with what I found for them.

 

[lingwendil]

Sorry, didn't get a chance to dig it out last night or pull the working one to check. Just finished moving and the house is in chaos.


I really wish rapid would post up some real dimensional drawing of these sorts of products they carry, would be much nicer for planning things out.


When I was in there in person a couple weeks ago (benefits of living in the SF Bay Area :thumbsup I brought up the issue with fitting drivers into these, and they sort of shrugged their shoulders and said best bet is to run the drivers in a separate enclosure, since most of their solutions include LDD-LS drivers on the main array PCB these days (hey Theatrus, how about throwing a pair of drivers on your acrostar pucks? :wavehand: definitely a market...) and may eventually offer something similar for DIY, but have no current plans to.

 

[MrMan]

Sorry, didn't get a chance to dig it out last night or pull the working one to check. Just finished moving and the house is in chaos.


I really wish rapid would post up some real dimensional drawing of these sorts of products they carry, would be much nicer for planning things out.


When I was in there in person a couple weeks ago (benefits of living in the SF Bay Area :thumbsup I brought up the issue with fitting drivers into these, and they sort of shrugged their shoulders and said best bet is to run the drivers in a separate enclosure, since most of their solutions include LDD-LS drivers on the main array PCB these days (hey Theatrus, how about throwing a pair of drivers on your acrostar pucks? :wavehand: definitely a market...) and may eventually offer something similar for DIY, but have no current plans to.

Sure would be nice to live within driving distance instead of paying 30+ for shipping anything cuz you're in Canada Had a fever/cold the last few days so didn't finish the PCB till today. After putting everything into the site the cost was $50 with shipping and an unknown import duty. Since you're the only one planning on building one at this point wanted to make sure you're OK with the few extra bucks per PCB before ordering and I can't PM you yet.

 

[saf1]

Not sold on much of anything at this point, and those 48W Pro Blue boards do look pretty slick....

I might just have to pivot to two of those... It looks like it will be a bit more expensive, but if the light will be more versatile and future proof then I'll probably be all for it... I really like those RapidLED enclosures, but anyone know of a controllable fan that fits in that area? Something I can control with the Storm LED controller?

Older thread I know but are you talking about the AcroStar Mega4Z 20k Pro Blue (48W) from Blue Acro? If so, I am wiring up four of them this weekend to test over a 240 gallon tank. I'll more than likely order another pair if the penetration is good. I have a 30" tall tank.

 

[TimmyD16]

Older thread I know but are you talking about the AcroStar Mega4Z 20k Pro Blue (48W) from Blue Acro? If so, I am wiring up four of them this weekend to test over a 240 gallon tank. I'll more than likely order another pair if the penetration is good. I have a 30" tall tank.

That is what I've been primarily looking at, it is the only pre-built LED module board that has the features that I am looking for, primarily the use of warm/nuetral white, and lime light spectrums.

Though I have recently been contemplating with the idea of a panel type of arrangement to better increase the spread of light for SPS...

Let us know how it all goes! they seem like great lights.

 

[lingwendil]

^ same. I love the two on my 20 long, and would love to see a nice build with the big boys. When I pull the fixture soon to put on the big build, they are coming out and going into a pair of Aavid Thermaloy heatsinks, with a pair of synjet coolers for pendant use...

 

[bblumberg]

Older thread I know but are you talking about the AcroStar Mega4Z 20k Pro Blue (48W) from Blue Acro? If so, I am wiring up four of them this weekend to test over a 240 gallon tank. I'll more than likely order another pair if the penetration is good. I have a 30" tall tank.

You will like those. I am running 3 on my 150g with 4 x 80W T5 supplements. I have 3 more and 4 LumiLEDs high CRI neutral whites to add when I can find the time to take the canopy off and fiddle with it.

If you want good penetration to 30", it might be necessary to leave the diffusers off.

 

[saf1]

You will like those. I am running 3 on my 150g with 4 x 80W T5 supplements. I have 3 more and 4 LumiLEDs high CRI neutral whites to add when I can find the time to take the canopy off and fiddle with it.

If you want good penetration to 30", it might be necessary to leave the diffusers off.

Thanks for the tip - will compare on/off and see. I'll have the 4 with a pair of the Borealis Luxeon Z from RapidLED mixed in. Like I noted I'll probably order another pair of the Acrostar's just to be safe. I can always tone down intensity via controller anyway and they are not that expensive

I'll check the diffuser - ty.

 

[saf1]

I got two of the four powered up last night with little to no issues and set them over the tank. Not proper height yet since I won't be able to work on the canopy until next week. These are running at 100% since I do not have them connected to my controller. I'm really pleased with the color and spread. I am not sure if four will be enough over the tank though. It is 30" tall x 30" deep x 54" wide. Will be interesting to see how they go when all four are running with water and rock. I'll be using dry rock and starting the cycle in January.

Only issue that I have is cooling the LED driver he builds. Great little piece but boy did it get super hot quick. No idea how I can mount and cool this. I just had the lights on for maybe 3 or 4 minutes then noticed the heat on them and next a flicker to warn me it was over heating (nice feature). I'll try and get some better photos. During the cycle if it looks like I need more than I'll order another pair, driver, power supply which would let me also add another pair if necessary. I'm thinking six will be more than enough.

 

[oreo57]

Only issue that I have is cooling the LED driver he builds.

Do you have large voltage mis-match between input and output??
I didn't think he used linear drivers but if he did.. the greater the voltage differential the greater the heating..

example of worst case.. 48V power supply running 1 3V LED..

 

[saf1]

Do you have large voltage mis-match between input and output??
I didn't think he used linear drivers but if he did.. the greater the voltage differential the greater the heating..

example of worst case.. 48V power supply running 1 3V LED..

I don't think believe so. I only had two installed at the moment but will have a total of four. The MeanWell would have put out the same power regardless or do you think that is it? I double checked the wires and it matched with the diagram we created. The only possible issue is that the driver isn't directly on the heat sink. It was on a double sided sticky type pad so maybe poor absorption / dissipation? I also didn't have it bolted firmly down. So maybe I just need to mount it better. It can't sit directly on the metal I don't believe.

Edit: Thank you btw.

 

[oreo57]

I don't think believe so. I only had two installed at the moment but will have a total of four. The MeanWell would have put out the same power regardless or do you think that is it? I double checked the wires and it matched with the diagram we created. The only possible issue is that the driver isn't directly on the heat sink. It was on a double sided sticky type pad so maybe poor absorption / dissipation? I also didn't have it bolted firmly down. So maybe I just need to mount it better. It can't sit directly on the metal I don't believe.

Edit: Thank you btw.

Yea, pretty sure they are the TI ones..LM3414
and switching buck regulators so shouldn't heat "much"...at least to my understanding.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2477205&page=19

The driver regulates current, so it will drive 700/1000ma through the LED by adjusting voltage as needed.

The driver doesn't "burn" 9V at 1A (9W), like a linear regulator would. At these ratios it's around 92% efficient, so it's 0.7W lost in the driver (split between the inductor, sense resistor, and actual IC)

Does say "mount to heatsink" though.............


I have a couple of the O2 5 up drivers based on the same topology and just thermal pasted them to a circular heat sink..
Don't recall any heat issues but to be honest didn't really check.. They have been running for months now w/ no problems..

you may want to drop him (theatrus) a note.. doesn't seem right..but ???

 

[kampo]

those drivers are so tiny I love em. been having a hard time getting ahold
of theatrus on a few question on my build i'm leaning toward using his drivers. but its unclear exactly what the upper and lower limits of that driver are.

any idea what the lowest Vout would be? it lists 12-48 but unclear if that's 12-48 in or out. also curious if its like a meanwell LDD if if I fed it say 50V from a 48v psu with the adjustment turned up would that be fine with a 47v led load.

reason i'm curious is my setup i'm planning for my freshwater light is a 36V cob then adding 2xDeep Red and 1xRoyal Blue and 1xhyper violetto that channel, this comes out to about 47ish volts at 1amp if i'm reading data sheets right

then on the salt version if I break out the channels i'll have loads as low as 6-7volts