DIY LED Fixture - Pointers for future build

those drivers are so tiny I love em. been having a hard time getting ahold
of theatrus on a few question on my build i'm leaning toward using his drivers. but its unclear exactly what the upper and lower limits of that driver are.

any idea what the lowest Vout would be? it lists 12-48 but unclear if that's 12-48 in or out. also curious if its like a meanwell LDD if if I fed it say 50V from a 48v psu with the adjustment turned up would that be fine with a 47v led load.

reason i'm curious is my setup i'm planning for my freshwater light is a 36V cob then adding 2xDeep Red and 1xRoyal Blue and 1xhyper violetto that channel, this comes out to about 47ish volts at 1amp if i'm reading data sheets right

then on the salt version if I break out the channels i'll have loads as low as 6-7volts

Can only go on manuf recommendations:
12-48V supply voltage
VIn - 3V maximum output voltage (12V in, 9V out) over the full input range

Tweaking ps to 50 is out of range..

Output is 9-45V.......
6-7V out of range..

suggest "sticking w/ the manuf plan"........... ;)

Never known anyone to series large voltage COBs w/ small..instinct tells me it's problematic..
 
Yea, pretty sure they are the TI ones..LM3414
and switching buck regulators so shouldn't heat "much"...at least to my understanding.

Does say "mount to heatsink" though............. ;)

I have a couple of the O2 5 up drivers based on the same topology and just thermal pasted them to a circular heat sink..
Don't recall any heat issues but to be honest didn't really check.. They have been running for months now w/ no problems..

you may want to drop him (theatrus) a note.. doesn't seem right..but ???

We did exchange emails with regards to a wire diagram last week. He didn't reply to the heat question yet. Holidays or busy with work I am guessing - so no rush. I'll take a picture when I get off work because I don't see how to mount it without causing a short to the heat sink (unless I'm missing something very obvious - which is probably the issue).

I was going to order another pair of the Aquastars last night just to be safe but he is out of stock!
 
There should be no wiring/circuits on the back side of the board AFAICT.. just "holes" .. i.e vias for heat conduction..
Use heatsink plaster or some other thermal silicone or glue or compound and screws to attach to a block of aluminum or some such arrangement..

hs1.jpg
 
HI oreo57 - thanks for the image and information. Here are the drivers that I am using of his. The back of the driver definitely has solder connects and/or bumps that would touch the aluminium / heat sink. Wouldn't that cause a short?

Appreciate the help by the way.
 

Attachments

  • bd1.jpg
    bd1.jpg
    55.8 KB · Views: 5
  • fd1.jpg
    fd1.jpg
    101.1 KB · Views: 5
HI oreo57 - thanks for the image and information. Here are the drivers that I am using of his. The back of the driver definitely has solder connects and/or bumps that would touch the aluminium / heat sink. Wouldn't that cause a short?

Appreciate the help by the way.

hmm. yes, doesn't look slappable on a heatsink as the duo mini drivers..

Pretty sure you could put a narrow bar heatsink to cover the Dice look 5 x 5 holes.

Just avoid the edges...;)

That said.. some "like" boards..

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2477205&page=4
 
Back
Top