diy LED Lumina 5.2 Purchase help.

[perkint]

I did. It is amazing the things you teach yourself so you don't burn down your house..
Or watch smoking things consume your checkbook

LOL - me too Nearest I've come to electronics before building things for the tank has been the odd DIY repair and building/repairing lots of PCs but that doesn't really count, as they're just mechano kits!

looks like around 50% max efficiency a?

That one is, yeah. I thought generally is was usually around 80% on normal PSUs (that one is a PC PSU) but I couldn't find any charts for the meanwell ones I have

Personally, I think there is more to gain by making sure you buy a quality PSU and making sure you don't drive it too hard for sustained periods, than worrying too much about aiming to drive it at its most efficient.

Tim

 

[oreo57]

LOL - me too Nearest I've come to electronics before building things for the tank has been the odd DIY repair and building/repairing lots of PCs but that doesn't really count, as they're just mechano kits!

That one is, yeah. I thought generally is was usually around 80% on normal PSUs (that one is a PC PSU) but I couldn't find any charts for the meanwell ones I have

Personally, I think there is more to gain by making sure you buy a quality PSU and making sure you don't drive it too hard for sustained periods, than worrying too much about aiming to drive it at its most efficient.

Tim

The Meanwell "types" I remember are fairly flat. They still have that sharp climb in the beginning (10-20%) but don't drop nearly as much as that big computer supply..Hitting 50% of max or above w/ a buffer at the end, is still a "rule of thumb" sweet spot.
I actually think many top out much higher too.. 90-ish..
Of course every one is slightly different.

 

[banthonyb71]

I did. It is amazing the things you teach yourself so you don't burn down your house..
Or watch smoking things consume your checkbook.


Well it depends on the drivers for one.. but w/ LDD's and related types.. No you just need the voltage for the LED's and the plus 2-3V for the LDD's. any extra is err extra.

Matching increases power supply efficiency but not really necessary. That said you really don't want one 3V led on a 48V power supply.

different ones look different but the principal of efficiency is to fall in the sweet spot.. if you can.
Running say different strings w/ different voltages is err. difficult to do unless you aim for watts..

A computer power supply. Principal remains the same..

In car audio, If I put a 12 volt radio on a 24 volt battery, I would fry the battery. Why is this not the case?

 

[oreo57]

In car audio, If I put a 12 volt radio on a 24 volt battery, I would fry the battery. Why is this not the case?

did you mean fry the radio??

The LDD is a "voltage regulator" so to speak..

 

[banthonyb71]

did you mean fry the radio??
.

lol. yes I did. sorry. thanks again.

 

[banthonyb71]

I made the order for my lights. still no power supply. Im torn between oreo advice to get 24 20amp supply but Aqualund advice to stay with mean well that will last. Only I cant find a mean well power supply 350 watts but 20 amps. Oreo, you mentioned in pm to not use 36v 10 amp and series parrallel. especially when I'd use less drivers this way?

I only ordered 10 drivers for now, enough to do 2 for now. but I do want a power supply that will last a while.

I PROMISE THIS WILL BE MY LAST POST ON THIS THREAD TILL I PROVIDE PICS!

DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME.

 

[Aqualund]

In car audio, If I put a 12 volt radio on a 24 volt battery, I would fry the battery. Why is this not the case?

And also because your car radio isn't made up of LED's. Thats the short answer...the long answer is that the components that first come into contact with the radio power source are designed for 12V potential max...where as an led looks for a minimum of 3V to turn on...and then passes the rest out the other side to the next led...it's all in the fundamental design of an led or a basic diode for that matter.

Start to get into physics and such...for now you just need to know it doesnt fry them

Now, more than 1500mA current and we can start discussing frying them

 

[Aqualund]

I made the order for my lights. still no power supply. Im torn between oreo advice to get 24 20amp supply but Aqualund advice to stay with mean well that will last. Only I cant find a mean well power supply 350 watts but 20 amps. Oreo, you mentioned in pm to not use 36v 10 amp and series parrallel. especially when I'd use less drivers this way?

I only ordered 10 drivers for now, enough to do 2 for now. but I do want a power supply that will last a while.

I PROMISE THIS WILL BE MY LAST POST ON THIS THREAD TILL I PROVIDE PICS!

DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME.

You do not need 20Amps oh my gawd.

You will be just fine with like 600 Watts max and maybe...maybe 10 Amps. You are just starting...start with simple and small and be prepared to break stuff as you learn.

 

[oreo57]

You do not need 20Amps oh my gawd.

You will be just fine with like 600 Watts max and maybe...maybe 10 Amps. You are just starting...start with simple and small and be prepared to break stuff as you learn.

Actually the point was to plan ahead for 4 Lumina's in total..
I suggested just running each in parallel (eventually 20 drivers)

Which is why it was a 24V power supply w/ enough watts to handle 4 eventually..
I also said that that was based on using 1500mA drivers on 2 channels..
I believe the actual figure was 3.2A per chip (86W per chip, 344W for 4 chips..) .. but 'just" based on the face value of the LDD's..5.1A

IF you want to plan for 4 chips
Running 4 in series requires 4x the voltage 72V but still only 5A
Running 4 in parallel requires 4x the amps 20A but still only 1x the voltage 18v
Running 2 in series and 2 sets in parallel requires 2x voltage 36V and 2x the amps 10A

You can check the math based on these parameters per chip:

Channel 1 - 3 Hyper Violet and 2 CREE XT-E Royal Blue (Actinic channel) (18v @ 700mA)
Channel 2 - Royal Blue (base blue spectrum) (16.5V @ 1500mA)
Channel 3 - 3 XT-E Netural White and 2 XT-E Warm White (base white color) (16.5V @ 1500mA)
Channel 4 - Turquoise / CREE XPE2 Blue (enhanced color spectrum) (17.2V @ 700mA)
Channel 5 - 3 Hyper Violet (430nm) and 2 True Violet (410nm) (Violet channel) (18v @ 700mA) *as of June 1st 2014

A 10A 48V ps is equiv to a 20A 24v ps..........Same watts....
Running the ps at greater than 50% and less than 70% would be a theoretical sweet spot for efficiency..
If any of this is wrong, or I missed something, please correct it..

PS is not any bigger than an average computer power supply

14.3A ps @ 24 is, I believe full utilization.. w/ no extra. 15.7A @ 24V would add a 10% headroom in Watts..

 

[banthonyb71]

Im running 2 for now. and get a 3rd for sure. the fourth is only if I upgrade and like the leds themselves. I dont want a overly cheap supply. I thought the se350 wouldnt be enough amps. 7.3 to 8.2? oh well. I made up mind now. ill order se350 and just worry about the 2 lumias for now. thanks Oreo, Aqualund again

 

[banthonyb71]

14.3 at 24 amps is better sweet spot? if they have it in meanwell i grab that one

 

[oreo57]

14.3A at 24VOLTS is better sweet spot? if they have it in meanwell i grab that one

That would not include a fair buffer
Better:

15.7A @ 24V would add a 10% headroom in Watts

Better than 14.3 not 15.7 (350W)
Can be trimmed to 20V to improve efficiency..
http://www.onlinecomponents.com/mea...E2254D6-5A48-413E-859F-D58991DDDA55csF6xHtb5l

bigger and fancier.. and more expensive (450W):
http://www.onlinecomponents.com/mea...E2254D6-5A48-413E-859F-D58991DDDA55csF6xHtb5l

Tough call.. (except based on price).
IF you are only using (for now) 3 Lumina's ps #1 is more than enough.
If/when you add a 4th.. PS 1 (350W) looks borderline a bit.. BUT if you use 1000mA in place of the 1500mA you will add headroom and #1 is just fine..

If you do do the 1500mA's for 3 chips and then decide to add a 4th, Swapping out those drivers (2X3) is cheaper than the added cost of THAT meanwell higher watt power supply ($50 vs $65)

Like I said, the 4 may be fine at 350W...but it looks close.
you may never need or add the 4th chip. That said you may not "need" 1500mA drivers as compared to 1000mA. I believe the "loss" was around 16W per chip..

2 chips is only 172w
Anyone else care to check this?

 

[perkint]

Personally, at that price, I'd go for the meanwell SE whichever you are doing. Running 4 with LDD1000s as the highest and it is fine Running 4 with LDD1500s as the highest (which requires new LDD boards!)? Buy two SE PSU supplies and run 2 on each

And if you are running 2 or 3 with 1000 or 1500 as the highest, one SE PSU is fine

Tim

 

[Aqualund]

Yeah but we are talking about someone who has never done this before and will definitely have hiccups along the way as he learns how everything goes together.

He needs to first assemble a simple system with bare bones and have success (after many failures) and then start tweaking from there.

I'm sure all of this stuff is breezing right over his head anyways...it's not an easy concept to grasp without formal training...or many years of tinkering.

 

[banthonyb71]

im using "2" for now. I 3rd for sure but only 2 now.

I already ordered 1000h. so I should have got 1500H? which one is best?

I want best PS for 2 chips. So what PS that I can use 3 and 4?

So 1 PS for 2 Lumia.

2nd PS. for 3rd but maybe 4th. What ratings to get? but only ordering 1 PS and 2 Lumia's until atleast this build is over tank

 

[jedimasterben]

How tall is your tank? I can't find anything concrete from looking back through your posts. If your tank is under 24" tall, then more than likely you won't even be exceeding 700mA on the LEDs.

 

[oreo57]

im using "2" for now. I 3rd for sure but only 2 now.

I already ordered 1000h. so I should have got 1500H? which one is best?

I want best PS for 2 chips. So what PS that I can use 3 and 4?

So 1 PS for 2 Lumia.

2nd PS. for 3rd but maybe 4th. What ratings to get? but only ordering 1 PS and 2 Lumia's until atleast this build is over tank

This works for 1-4 Luminas in parallel..
http://www.onlinecomponents.com/datasheet/se35024.aspx?p=43123162

There are no LDD1500-H's just LDD1500-L's Mixing "h" series and "l" series just complicates things..

There are more "choices" than "bests"....

Your only major choice is parallel or series/parallel.
Drawback to parallel. more wire, more drivers
Advantage small voltage power supply

series/parallel
Drawback larger voltage power supply more expensive at the current needed
Advantage less wire, less drivers.
On your very first post you had it close to correct w a few tweaks... Don't over think this.

All anyone really needs to know is voltage adds in series. Amps add in parallel
and
W=V*A

 

[banthonyb71]

forgot about this one se35048 right. (the link had 9 models of the 350) took a second

 

[banthonyb71]

as I was saying I went to micro center and grabbed a arduino starter kit and hopefully I can brush up on some electronic skills that way:reading:

 

[oreo57]

as I was saying I went to micro center and grabbed a arduino starter kit and hopefully I can brush up on some electronic skills that way:reading:

Barely crawling and trying to run.. Just a joke.
Just get a Storm or storm X Later you can reprogram them to your hearts desire..