DIY LED Need Advice

Have a question can I connect for Example 2 XP-G, 2 XP-E and 2 XR-E to a single driver all 3W right ?
Also what all we would I need to paste the leds on to the heat sink ?
 
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Just example 1 am Planning for More Blue 72 Royal blue and 36 XP-G Soft white will that work .. How do you all connect .. have you used Inventronics drivers do; I need any thing special to connect this to apex ?

Also how do you select between diffrent optics and what are the best for a 22 Inch depth tank ?
 
for my optics is chose like this, 0-8" water gets 80* optics,8-12" gets 55* and deeper than that gets 40*. I used my light meter to see how the drop off was from each of the 3 optics that i had and made my decision based on that. my leds sit around 8" above the tank.

so if you are using two 150w inventronics drivers then one driver will get all 60 blue leds and the other will get the remaining leds. i wired mine in series and made one big string out of it.
 
I have one more question what is the size of the star is is 20mm ? Thring to see on a 1.1 heat sink how much spece is left ..
Thx
 
Question; those who have drilled and used screws for leds to the HeatSink ; I my case 216 Holes to be drilled at a minimum .. Is it preffred to do drilling or glue it to the Heat sink ?
 
Question; those who have drilled and used screws for leds to the HeatSink ; I my case 216 Holes to be drilled at a minimum .. Is it preffred to do drilling or glue it to the Heat sink ?

I did 288 tapped holes using a 18v DeWalt cordless drill for both the drilling and tapping. It is actually pretty easy to tap using a variable speed drill with a 4-32 tap. You just have to be careful and it helps to keep the tap lubed. I just used WD40 that I dipped the tap into about every 4th hole. Took me about 3 hours or so to do them all. Broke one tap but no drill bits. May not be the easiest way to do it for all but it's fast if you can pull it off.

I also tried self tapping screws but it was a lot of work to get them all the way through 1/8" alum before stripping the phillips head.
 
I did 288 tapped holes using a 18v DeWalt cordless drill for both the drilling and tapping. It is actually pretty easy to tap using a variable speed drill with a 4-32 tap. You just have to be careful and it helps to keep the tap lubed. I just used WD40 that I dipped the tap into about every 4th hole. Took me about 3 hours or so to do them all. Broke one tap but no drill bits. May not be the easiest way to do it for all but it's fast if you can pull it off.

I also tried self tapping screws but it was a lot of work to get them all the way through 1/8" alum before stripping the phillips head.

Thx great info jkopp36.
 
I have a Change of Plan to do the LED's build . Since I have 3 x 150 MH currently .. I am Planning to replace this slowley over a course of 1 to two years. My Immediate plan is let me know what you think about this ..I have space on either side of the MH Fixture .. Current MH has a slight blue very little .. For each MH will add 2 of 1.1 x 18" heat sink which will contain will contain 18 Led each so there will be 36 of them on either side of each MH. LED distibution is 2:1 RD to NW ratio

Each set will contain 24 RB and 12 XPG NW will be be driven by 3 Mean Well ELN-60-48D dimmable drivers . Have an Apex Conroller Once finished will Run THe MH for peak 5 Hours . The two sets of led will run and dawn, dusk an in between.


Question is the 1.1 x 18 Heat Sink to small .. to hold 18 of them with out a fan ? or get a 4.25 x 18 in which case MH will move to back and LED on the FRONT . 4.25 x 18 can hold two fans also ..?
 
Thx TheFishMan65 you are always very help full .. I see the heat sinkusa has a new witdth 1.813 will that work insted of the 1.1 . I really didn't want the MH to be moved to the back . Let me do some more mesurments and see if I can keep the MH Fixture in the middle and still put the 4.25x18 . I preffer to do the 4.25 HS. Or another option is 1.1 x 18 and put only 12 LED on it and get three of the 1.1 x 18.. I was trying to avoide the Fan .. ona 1.1 W

Let's know how your CW to NW project goes .
 
I have one that is about an inch wide, 4 fins that are about 1/4 inch high. Spacing is about 2.3 inches. It can get hot driveing XP-G at 1 amp. A fan cools it fine.

I don't think the 1 inch would allow 12 maybe 6, but this is IMO.

IMO, The 1.8 might allow 12, but probably not 18 in 18 inches.
 
Thx TheFishMan65 .. After my mesurement; I have decided to go with 4.25 x 18 which should be good for 18 Leds .. Thx
 
Insted on doing a full 108 led build , I am currently building a pirtial fixture with 36 leds.
I have 24 RB (XP-E) and 12 white (XP-G) half CW and NW from Rapidled.
All glued to heat sink and tested and adjusted the Drivers amps on the drivers all working

Question is how to glue the optics does the regular super glue works ?
Also I have 80 and 65 degree optics How high the leds need to be above the water ? 21 inch deep thank.

I have an Apex dimming question can I connect more than I driver two drivers to the same V1 port ?

The idea is to controle blues seperatly and whites seperatly.

Thx
 
DO NOT USE SUPER GLUE - it can damage the lens/dome of the LED. Use eopxy just enough to hold it on.
Roughly so the color have time to mix:
- 80 8-12 inches above the surface
- 60 12-16 inches above the surface
Sorry not familiar enough with the apex. Is there only one port? Most can drive at least two.
 
Thx Fishman65 Apex has 4 ports . I am not sure if 1 port can drive more than one driver for dimming. I have some epoxy left over , brought for corals so will can use that ?

Thx for all the info .
 
As far as I know that epoxy will be fine. I used some from Home Depot.
How many drivers do you have? Or are some of the ports used? I would think you could make this work.
 
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