DIY LEDs - The write-up

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first a several arrays for my 270

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on kitchen ceiling (not all have lenses on them)

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I can't remember right now, but I thought silicone and super were not supposed to be used, becuase they did not transfer heat well. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable on glues will chime in.
we are discussing gluing on lenses. thermal transfer is not important on this side.
 
The issue is not heat transfer from the lens to the heatsink.
The lens wont get very hot.

The issue is easy bonding of the lens holder to the heatsink or star.

Both "crazy glue" (Cyanoacrylate) and silicone give off VOCs as they cure.
Either one could contaminate the lens of the LED.

I vote for standard 5-min epoxy mixed in very small quantities.
Just-a-dab-l-do-ya

Stu
 
I can't remember right now, but I thought silicone and super were not supposed to be used, becuase they did not transfer heat well. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable on glues will chime in.

neither one transfer heat well, but that's if you are trying to use the glues to hold the stars on the heatsink.

To hold the lens on, that's a different story all together.
 
anything that cures, even epoxy, will put off some vapor ;-)

I can remember my days of building race RC boats, epoxy fumes got kind of thick sometimes.

I find the smallest dab works the best, and use what works best for you.

Always remember, there are many ways to do an item and many people to tell you how to do it. In the end, do what you feel is best ;-)
 
The issue is not heat transfer from the lens to the heatsink.
The lens wont get very hot.

The issue is easy bonding of the lens holder to the heatsink or star.

Both "crazy glue" (Cyanoacrylate) and silicone give off VOCs as they cure.
Either one could contaminate the lens of the LED.

I vote for standard 5-min epoxy mixed in very small quantities.
Just-a-dab-l-do-ya

Stu

That's more like the answer I was looking for. Leave it to Stu to shoot me straight. So the locktight 5min epoxy is fine? I was leary of using super glue because of the VOC sticking to any residue on the led. Epoxy it is then.
 
I'm on my iPhone so can't link right now but go to mouser electronics website and search for led then use the filter menus to select uv and the list comes up. They are made by ledgin and are 30.00 each. You can get as low as 365nm but I think that is pushing it for me plus one Led is like 60.00
 
I have 36 led's on two 4x8" heatsinks(18 each) and for colors I got royal blue(12),blue(6),cool white(12) and warmwhite(6) all mixed in. So I want to drive all the led's at 700ma-Would two Mean Well ELN-60-48P be good for the 24 RB and CW(want to be able to dim them) then would this driver be able to drive the 12 blues and warmswhites?

http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-3/driv...-drivers/Detail


My tank is only 11" tall and the led fixture will be 14" from the water surface-would 60 degree optics be more then enough or could I do 80?
 
Dumb question but can you run XR-E's on the same string as XP-G's? Obviously the XP-G's have a higher power limit so the power source would be limited by the XR-E's.
 
As long as all LEDs on the string are safe at the current you choose, and the total Vf is within range for the driver, you should be 100% fine mixing and matching any way you want.
 
Der - As for the XP Royal blues. Why do people not use these? Only because the pricing is higher than the XR's for the same performance? Only difference is the viewing angel?

-Dave
 
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