DIY LEDs - The write-up

Status
Not open for further replies.
sammy113 said:
I'm looking for the same Dave. Having 12+ ELN's is a no go
Found these but not dimmable

https://www.reefledlights.com/products-page/driverspower-supplies/mean-well-clg-150-48a/

https://www.reefledlights.com/products-page/driverspower-supplies/mean-well-hlg-240-48a/
Click to expand...

I am sure you guys have seen the DIY driver that DWZM as well as the The Fish Man have made. They are both much more cost effective and save space. Not sure if this would work but something to consider.

I also find myself ready to build my LED rig and would like some advise from the masses. The tank is an AGA 180 with the large center glass brace. I am looking for others input on ratio and mix of LED's to place. I don't want to get to hung up on the placement of the brace as I am likely going to switch out the tank to an equivalent 72" length system. I really like the idea of smaller focused "pendants" if you will. Should I go with a 3:1 royal blue/blue XR-E with white XP-G or more of a 2:1 royal blue/blue XR-E and CW and NW XR-E? Obviously visual is subjective but I like the 12-14k color look. I have an opportunity to get in on a group buy (PM if you want any info on this) for these at a good price so I need to make a decision pretty quick. Thanks in advance.
 
Thinking out loud. For this large 225 LED build. Should I use the Meanwell HLG or run many buckpucks and pick up a 24v 12-14A power supply.

I guess what I'm asking is which is safer?

-Dave
 
That is almost 40 buck pucks. You would probably need several 24V supplies. I haven't seen a price on the HLG, but it is probably cheaper. Have you considered the DIY driver?

Both are safe if you take the proper precautions. the HLG has fewer wires. The buck puck might be safer for the LEDs. But I bet is about a wash IMO.
 
I'd like to upgrade my current lighting to LED's, but I'm not sure how many I need. I have a 38 corner bowfront with 2 x 65 power compacts. I'd like to replace that with LED's, and it would be nice to have a bit more light but it doesn't have to be a ton. Would 12 be enough or would I have to go for 18 or 24? Thanks!
 
The HLG would be cheaper but for some reason I am still a little scared to run them in a parallel.

The bucks would require two-three power supplies depending if I run them @ 500 or 700mA

Hmmm....

Anyone else?

-Dave
 
DFason said:
The HLG would be cheaper but for some reason I am still a little scared to run them in a parallel.

The bucks would require two-three power supplies depending if I run them @ 500 or 700mA

Hmmm....

Anyone else?

-Dave
Click to expand...

Dave, I don't think it's too big of a deal to run them in parallel as long as you take prudent precautions- bin your LED's so that the forward voltages of the strings are comparable and put fuses inline in case one of the LEDs fails closed. I build mine that way with two strings of royal blue XR-E's running at 700mA ea on an ELN-60-48D.

CJ

PS- you never did get back to me on that LED order!
 
hello, a while back i made a small DIY LED fixture for my 3g pico, but now im upgrading a bit and want to make a larger LED fixture. I used a two part epoxy and i was just wondering if it is safe to remove the LED from the heat sink and how i would go about doing that? Thank you!
 
100%Hydrophylic someone a while back reported that a wood chisel worked, IIRC. They said that the shearing stregnth was not very good.

ETG has XR-E CW are down to $4 at least fo 100 and XR-E RB are $3 in any quantitiy. XP-G are $5.50 or $4.75 for 100+.
 
Well I have been reading and reading till my eyes are about to fall out. But.. I am really excited about upgrading my pc lights. I am looking to build 3 light fixtures one for a 125gal reef, a 20gal office reef, and a 55 Fowlr. I was thinking 90 Led for the 125gal, 22 Led for the 20gal, and 36 Led for the 55 Fowlr all 60/40 split XP-E_Rb and XP-G Cw. Do you think i need to increase or lower any of my numbers. I would like to try doing some Sps to my 125. Also are there any Group buys going on now. Thanks..
 
LOUIEB Sorry I don't have my tank size memorized :). The current recommendation is 1 LED forevery 10-20 square inches of surface area. Maybe a little less with XP-G. For SPS aim higher. Having said this the 55 (I know that one) might be a little hi if it is staying FOWLR. Run the number but 90 seems low for a SPS 125 and (also run the nubmers) 22 seems high for a 20.
 
Are there any options on increasing the "neon glow" for green softies? The Royal Blues definitely make my RBTA's pop and I've even tried to add some green LEDs but the green softies still are dull and dark. Any ideas?
 
Fishman,:wave: I am at 15square inches of surface area for the 125 reef (72X18) and 16 square inches of surface area for the 20 reef (24x12) as for the 55gal (48x12) it will always be a Fwlr I have a porcupine puffer and in the near future I need to upgrade to a 90 Gal (48x18) so i would just move this fixture. Do you think I should go to 10 square inches of surface area for the Sps tank.:rolleye1: Thanks for a quick response.
 
Louie you need a little help with your math:)
125 G is 72x18 = 1296 square inches so 65 - 130 LEDs
55 G is 44x12 = 576 square inches so 29 - 58 LEDs
20G is 24x12 = 288 square inches so 14 - 29 LEDs
That is if my math is right. So I think what you want is 132 (maybe 120 if you use XP-Gs)for the 125, 30 (36) for the 55 (about the same with XP-G since the low number), and I don't think you ever said what is in the 20. Most driver support 6 or 12 so I that is why my number don't match exactly to what I said above.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

E
Neptune DDR diy question for AWC
Replies
3
Views
123
Reefing102
Reefing102
R
DIY AI-coded ESP32 based aquarium controller
Replies
0
Views
379
ronnyking
R
AquaticReefTV
DIY Cable management time lapse
Replies
1
Views
538
S|\/|S
S
AZBigJohn
New Build... I'm back
2
Replies
23
Views
614
griss
griss
B
Beam Deflection - 15 years and I finally broke down and wrote a how to.
Replies
16
Views
937
BeanAnimal
B
Back
Top