DIY LEDs - The write-up

[der_wille_zur_macht]

How high off the tank? How good is the airflow going to be? Those will both affect humidity and temperature differences above/below the shield which is what really seems to contribute to warping.

I'd probably go with 3/16" or 1/4" and put standoffs on a 10 - 12" grid across the face of the heatsink to help support it. Otherwise that's a pretty big shield to be hanging there all on it's own.

 

[Reefobsession]

I am looking into down grading to a 50 gallon or 40 gallon artesian in the next year since I will be moving around and I really not looking forward to moving my 93 gallon more than once.
The 50 gallon is
24"X24"X18" tall. I would love to build a DIY fixture, but I am worried it won't be sleek enough. Anyone have any ideas for a cool DIY fixure that I could build. Would a wood housing be a domb idea? I could do something really neat with wood for a fixture. I could have the fixture match the stand.

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Wood is absolutely fine.

Really it boils down to your skillset and creativity. You need the enclosure to be durable (i.e. it won't fall apart from salt spray). You need proper thermal management (pathways for air, cooling fans, etc.). That's about it. If you search build threads and/or back through this thread you will find a few examples of very "sleek" enclosures. Someone (terahz maybe?) posted a really cool, thin enclosure with a food frame that was wall-mounted with a swingarm normally used for a flatscreen TV. It was definitely sleek!

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Just ordered me some Neutral Whites and 420n Violets. Time to start tweaking

 

[Chrisrush]

Cool grim. Keep us posted on the effects

 

[SpacedCowboy]

I am looking into down grading to a 50 gallon or 40 gallon artesian in the next year since I will be moving around and I really not looking forward to moving my 93 gallon more than once.
The 50 gallon is
24"X24"X18" tall. I would love to build a DIY fixture, but I am worried it won't be sleek enough. Anyone have any ideas for a cool DIY fixure that I could build. Would a wood housing be a domb idea? I could do something really neat with wood for a fixture. I could have the fixture match the stand.

Cutting and pasting from a different thread to do with controllers in the 'large tanks' forum. Here's what I have on my plate for the next few months...

I am designing my own at the moment. The design has a few unique features:

• There's a graphical touch-sensitive 7" (800x480 pixel) display with an embedded linux device controlling it. I plan to mount it in a nice wooden surround and make it look part of the whole stand I'm building.
• Programming will be done using drag-and-drop of symbols - so to turn on the chiller when the temperature gets above 78, you'd drag an 'if' block onto the work-area, then drag/drop a value block that referenced the temperature sensor, then drag/drop a control-block that referenced the controlled power socket. A little ordering (value-block linking to if-block linking to control-block) and configuration (the 78 and 'greater than' in the 'IF' block), and you're done. More complex things can be created using AND or OR blocks. It'll take seconds to create a program, and no remembering obscure codes for inputs/outputs, not to mention recognising later what a given program does...
• Each sensor-node is connected via ethernet, and contains a built-in webserver. Each of these nodes can manage N inputs (temperature, pH, dissolved O2, float switches, ...) or N outputs (relay-controlled AC sockets). There's no limit to how many nodes you can have (well, practically no limit. I'm using the 10.x.x.x subdomain, so there's actually a limit of 16 million nodes, each of which can control N inputs or outputs, with N being typically 4-8). That ought to be enough for anyone [tm].
• I'll be integrating my LED controller circuit, and creating modular (12" wide by 24" deep) lighting, each of which is a node on the network. I plan to be able to have "clouds" migrating across the tank for example, by controlling the intensitys of LEDs. Here's a snapshot of the lighting design:
  
  
  

Note that on the lighting design, the large center-hole in the first plate is for an 8cmx8cm fan which will be temperature-controlled. There will be a fan at both ends in a push/pull arrangement, and the air is ducted through the extruded aluminium via the holes. The other cut-outs are for circuit-boards and screws. The two holes on the outside (we're actually looking at the back here) plate are for the daisy-chaining of LED power. Each receptacle can take 30A of power, and is a waterproof design. Those suckers are expensive!

One of the cool things about having all the sensors have an embedded webserver is that you make an HTTP request to get the current sensor value, or turn on a relay, or whatever. It's then easy to have other devices (like say, my own domain's webserver) link to it using PHP or Perl or whatever and get access to the data / graph it / do whatever I want. The data isn't locked up inside a proprietary device.

Anyway, I'm at the design-stage (as in: I have a circuit with an AVR and an ethernet chip which I have yet to test) at the moment. I'll be posting a thread soon, detailing progress as I bring up a new 240G tank that's arriving in a few weeks...

Simon

 

[Mr Smiley]

Ive spent the last 2 months reading the entire thread. Great information and lots of ideas.

Is there a minimum size for U-Channel? Im looking at either 2x1x.125 or 2x.5x.250. There is a substantial price difference between the two.

Im planning to make this fixture for my 150g. It measures 48Lx24Wx30D.

If I go with one led per 12sq in ill need 96. Im thinking this is a bit high. I am planing to keep LPS and maybe SPS long way down the road.

I havent decided on a mix yet. I have never seen the differences between any bulb colors. So i dont know what im looking for yet. I just know i DO NOT want a Yellow tank.

 

[juldelf]

Hi everybody,
like Mr Smiley just before i've spend the last months reading the entire thread
I first like to thanks everybody who participate to improve this thread.
I now have a few questions to ask to build my diy led for my RSM 34G.

- Are the xpg led are not too powerfull for the reef use. I'm thinking about this cause i don't remerber but 2 guys on this thread spoke about coral bleeching

- For my 34G i'm thinking 10 XPE or XRE RB with 2 blues on on driver meanwell 60-48 D (for a futur profilux dimming) and 10 XPG cool whites with 2 XPG neutral whites on an other meanwell D

- I'm thinking about buying my staff on cutter's website but really not sure to understand with all the differents bins for one led

- Does a plexiglass plate for splash guard can block some spectral pic ?

- I'm not sure i understand correctly how to set at 700mA a meanwell drivers. Can i set it just with the drivers plug on the wall but without the string led on it ? , just with my multimeter on the V+V- ??

- I've seen some ceramic star on led de, what do you think compared to a star pcb, what's he avantages?
http://www.led-tech.de/de/High-Powe...G-R5-auf-Keramik-Platine-LT-1713_120_138.html

- I also saw this drivers:http://www.led-tech.de/en/LED-Contr...or-10-18x-1W-LEDs--230V--LT-1280_118_119.html
but is it dimmable via 0 10V signal?

Thanks again to everybody

 

[sahin]

Just ordered me some Neutral Whites and 420n Violets. Time to start tweaking

Grim can you post here or pm me the source of the 420nm Violet LED's please? I ordered 1 x 420nm LED a while back from a website called Kai domain, but the LED was crap. Wasted $20 on it. The output was crap. I tested to see how much flourecence it caused and it was crap. Those cheap blue moonlight LED create better flourence.

 

[sammy113]

Sahin, nanotuners carry them. Max current is 500mA but they perform very nice. I installed 4 in my lamp

 

[kcress]

Is there a minimum size for U-Channel? Im looking at either 2x1x.125 or 2x.5x.250. There is a substantial price difference between the two.

No. As long as the stars have a little Al surrounding them.

Im planning to make this fixture for my 150g. It measures 48Lx24Wx30D. If I go with one led per 12sq in ill need 96. Im thinking this is a bit high. I am planing to keep LPS and maybe SPS long way down the road.

Lately that number has increased to something more like 15 ~ 20 sqin. due to XPGs and experience. However you have a little deeper tank so 15sq-in might be a better number for you.

I havent decided on a mix yet. I have never seen the differences between any bulb colors. So i dont know what im looking for yet. I just know i DO NOT want a Yellow tank.

Then go with what most seem to be doing. 60/40 B/W

If you still aren't sure buy a handful and experiment. Get a piece of aluminum sheet - 16gauge. Get one of your drivers. Screw your guess onto the Al plate. And run it while holding it over your tank. You can mix the colors directly in your little test string. Use about 12 total.

 

[Mr Smiley]

Lately that number has increased to something more like 15 ~ 20 sqin. due to XPGs and experience. However you have a little deeper tank so 15sq-in might be a better number for you.

Then go with what most seem to be doing. 60/40 B/W

If you still aren't sure buy a handful and experiment. Get a piece of aluminum sheet - 16gauge. Get one of your drivers. Screw your guess onto the Al plate. And run it while holding it over your tank. You can mix the colors directly in your little test string. Use about 12 total.

Awesome, That cuts the number from 96 leds down to around 77. I do plan to mix in 1 maybe 2 NW per white string, that is when i start playing.

As of right now I have not set up this tank. But would i be able to get the same color results with a fresh water tank? I have one thats 18" deep?

Can i fit 13 led's on a MW driver if i go with XPG?

 

[OTCHU]

ok it's my time I guess ... got the money n ready to rock !! lol

BUT I NEED HELP PLEASE ... lol

My tank:
125G 72x18x20
My current light: 3*150WMH 4*96W compact
I have softies n SPS (SPS medium and high of the tank)

My plan:
I have 2 brackets on the tank so I will do 3 modules of Leds
the opening between the brakets are 16x20
I had already 40 XRE CW and BR leds so I will do with the XRE generation

Question 1: is 90 leds will be enough ? I woul dlike to have a little better PAR than right now with my old lighting. I am doing the DIY driver with the cat4101 so that will be for each module 5 rows of 6 string leds.

Question 2: I would like to put the leds at about 10inches from the tank. The big question is what will be the dimension of the heatsink ?

Question 3: I will need lenses right ? if yes, what kind will be ? 40 degrees ?

Thank you so much for your help
Vincent

 

[laverda]

Hi everybody,
like Mr Smiley just before i've spend the last months reading the entire thread
I first like to thanks everybody who participate to improve this thread.
I now have a few questions to ask to build my diy led for my RSM 34G.

- Are the xpg led are not too powerfull for the reef use. I'm thinking about this cause i don't remerber but 2 guys on this thread spoke about coral bleeching

- For my 34G i'm thinking 10 XPE or XRE RB with 2 blues on on driver meanwell 60-48 D (for a futur profilux dimming) and 10 XPG cool whites with 2 XPG neutral whites on an other meanwell D

The XPG are stronger and will over power the blues at the same current. that is why people are sugesting mor RB to white. I can not specificl address the bleaching issue but you can laways dim the white if need be.

- I'm thinking about buying my staff on cutter's website but really not sure to understand with all the differents bins for one led

- Does a plexiglass plate for splash guard can block some spectral pic ?

- I'm not sure i understand correctly how to set at 700mA a meanwell drivers. Can i set it just with the drivers plug on the wall but without the string led on it ? , just with my multimeter on the V+V- ??

No, you have to turn down the current with the internal adjuster, then hook everything up and slowly adjust the current to what you want it at with everything running.

- I've seen some ceramic star on led de, what do you think compared to a star pcb, what's he avantages?
http://www.led-tech.de/de/High-Powe...G-R5-auf-Keramik-Platine-LT-1713_120_138.html

I was woundering the same thing, but it seem like a bad idea to me.

- I also saw this drivers:http://www.led-tech.de/en/LED-Contr...or-10-18x-1W-LEDs--230V--LT-1280_118_119.html
but is it dimmable via 0 10V signal?

It does not look like it is, but I could not find any detailed specifications for it.

 

[kcress]

Awesome, That cuts the number from 96 leds down to around 77. I do plan to mix in 1 maybe 2 NW per white string, that is when i start playing.

As of right now I have not set up this tank. But would i be able to get the same color results with a fresh water tank? I have one thats 18" deep?

Can i fit 13 led's on a MW driver if i go with XPG?

Salt/ fresh - no matter. Typically fresh would have much more neutral coloring. You could probably use fewer LEDs in that shallower tank. Plus fresh water spaces seem to be less brightly lit in the real world.

I don't recall for the number on that MW. Just figure it out. Add up the Vfs and make sure they're about a volt less than the Maximum Allowed Voltage listed in the MW data sheet.

 

[DFason]

Checking with everyone. I am doing a massive 300 LED build for a three foot deep tank. I have used 60 degree optics for 2' deep tanks but not sure about this one.

I am thinking 40's with the fixture hanging 12" above water level.

Any suggestions would be great.

-Dave

 

[PurpleMonster]

Wow so many ideas and so many advances in these LED's!!! My current setup is dual 250W HQI with dual overdriven T5's and man the heat is just killer! its great right now in the winter keeps the house warm!!! haha, but its just too much heat.

Current tank is 36X30X18, future tank is going to be 48X30X20...... My thoughts were to go 36LED'sX2 on heatsinks, but now i see you guys using the U Channels so now im thinking of maybe just doing that.... I'd really like to use the same type of LED's but I do see that you guys use less XPG LED's and more Blues but i would probably end up dimming the whites down to get the color i want....

If i order a kit say from Rapid will it be enough to maintain my SPS happy? I will probably start by ordering 1 kit first once that is up and i replace one MH then move on to the second one. I just want to make sure before i pull tha trigger that i am not mistaken on 36LED's per side will be enough. Ofcourse then tehre is teh optics, since both tanks will be in the shallowish area will 60* be fine?

For water protection i plan on having an Acrylic enclosure made for it, open at the top for airflow for the fans. The acrylic enclosure will be bolted on the heatsink to keep splash out. My idea is there i just need a little reassuring, I really appreciate all the hard work you guys have put into this!!

Thanks!

 

[kcress]

Checking with everyone. I am doing a massive 300 LED build for a three foot deep tank. I have used 60 degree optics for 2' deep tanks but not sure about this one.

I am thinking 40's with the fixture hanging 12" above water level.

Any suggestions would be great.

-Dave

That plan seems good to me.

Wow so many ideas and so many advances in these LED's!!! My current setup is dual 250W HQI with dual overdriven T5's and man the heat is just killer! its great right now in the winter keeps the house warm!!! haha, but its just too much heat.

Current tank is 36X30X18, future tank is going to be 48X30X20...... My thoughts were to go 36LED'sX2 on heatsinks, but now i see you guys using the U Channels so now im thinking of maybe just doing that.... I'd really like to use the same type of LED's but I do see that you guys use less XPG LED's and more Blues but i would probably end up dimming the whites down to get the color i want....

If i order a kit say from Rapid will it be enough to maintain my SPS happy? I will probably start by ordering 1 kit first once that is up and i replace one MH then move on to the second one. I just want to make sure before i pull tha trigger that i am not mistaken on 36LED's per side will be enough. Ofcourse then tehre is teh optics, since both tanks will be in the shallowish area will 60* be fine?

For water protection i plan on having an Acrylic enclosure made for it, open at the top for airflow for the fans. The acrylic enclosure will be bolted on the heatsink to keep splash out. My idea is there i just need a little reassuring, I really appreciate all the hard work you guys have put into this!!

Thanks!

Yes your SPS should be happy.

Yours sounds good too. I have a little concern over those optics on a relatively short tank. If you can raise the fixture if your optics seem too focused then I'd have no quibbles.


Alternatively build it with no optics and then get a handful of different optics and figure out which is best. You may find you want tighter ones around the perimeter less tight inward and possibly none in the middle. Just make sure you can add the optics in your layout.

 

[OTCHU]

so no advice about my build ? Thread n 5214 ... thank you guys

 

[PurpleMonster]

ahhh i see... i guess i just have to read up on optics a bit more.

Thank you much for the help!