DIY LEDs - The write-up

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Ok thanks... I had the flash with mine also when I just unplugged the power plug when I was testing the Menawell before going developing a custom board from the ground up that talked directly with the Profilux via 1-10v but wanted the effects of the thunderstorm, lightning, clouds moon phase etc.
 
Ok LED experts, I have a few questions, I just ordered 42 XP-G Cool Whites, and 56 XP-E Royal Blues, and I am hoping I got a decent color combo. Hopefully I am asking in the right place, What drives do you guys recomend, and how many led's per driver?, How do I figure out my pattern, I am mounting these to a piece of 1/4 aluminum, which is 46 1/2" X 15 1/2", I tacked some fins on the back for heat, and plan on putting some thermal adhesive down it, didn't want to weld fully because it would warp. anyway anyone have a similar set up,and have a layout for them. what did you use for drivers, I was planning on the mean well eln 60-48d but that seems a ton of drivers ill need, how many can i put on these? And how do I figure out the par rating for this amount of led's, I am going to buy 40 degree optics, which places optics do you recomend? I have a Lux meter. My tank is 48"L X 18"W X 30"D if it helps any. And thanks for any recomended info and help.
 
You could look at the HLG and drive in parallel (make sure you understand the risk). You could also place 2 strings on an ELN. Or look at the DIY driver.

Tacked on some fins?? If not done right this may be worse IMHO.

No calculations from LEDs to PAR. Too much depends on distance between LED, lenses, height above tank. And probably some other stuff.
 
whats the best cre leds out right now?

its confusing everyone seems to mix and match types

looking to do a 24 led system with 2 to 1 blue
 
As far as the fins, I welded 2" strips of aluminum on the back, just like a heatsink. custom heatsink. Aluminum's free at work. heatsinks not. What do you mean, I can drive two strings of 12 leds with one mean well eln 60-48d, I went with the xp-g cool whites, because i couldn't find any optics for the xp-l
 
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The ELN-60-48 will do 1.3 amps. You could do 2 string a 650 ma each if the proper precautios are taken.

Will a weld allow for good heat transfer? I don't know, but I would think so. I was worried it might be glued and may not ransfer heat well.

You can actually beat those prices with Cutter if the buy is large enough. What I am not sure about is shipping and import fees, but I think they will be low enough to still beat those prices.
 
XR-E, XP-E, XP-G then the XM-Ls. Never heard of the XP-L was it. Cutter and maybe ETG have the XM-Ls. What do you mean no one uses the XP-Gs?

I am working on a build of CW XP-Gs and RB XP-Es.
 
Ok, I am having problems finding it, but can you post the parallel wiring diagram again. I want to do a 72 LED build and want to use a minimal amount of drivers.
 
You mean this one?

5271830487_e50efe1296_b.jpg
 
Leds

Leds

widmer said:
This is kind of fun even though we all knew it was coming...

http://cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut1074

Cree is releasing the XM-L in different flux bins now like warm white etc.
Click to expand...

OK Mr Wid why would you prefer the 3000K WW XM-L over the CW? Is it preference? Is this WW a 90CRI? I have some XM-L T6 CW on order. You seem to be hell bent on the 3000K 90 CRI. What`s your reasoning? Through prior posts on this fourm, i was under the impression most tended to stay away form the WWs as they were to much on the red end of the specturm. I`m interested in hearing you arguement for it :wave: who knows, i may just change up some of my order if you convince me :artist: Lastly, what about lenses for these? last i read, about 3 weeks ago, it was suposed to be about a week before more lenses came out. Without a lens the view angle is 160degrees. If you are able to angle these LEDS, maybe not using a lens would be a good thing.
 
S2 -

My primary reason for interest in the warm white has actually been to use in lighting an ATS, as well as non-aquarium uses. I don't actually have any experience with putting a warm white over a tank, but I've seen a few instances where people have so far, and they seem to really like the way it turns out. I love the idea of high CRI for the obvious reason that the CRI system was established to be able to describe how accurately a light source will mimic the sun.

As far as lenses go, it has been a little disappointing that we don't have a selection of them yet for the XM-L. You're absolutely right about the viewing angle being a problem in most aquarium-related cases if you don't strap a lens on it.

Meanwhile I'm only using 12 XP-G in my next build (and for that matter I'm expecting they will be run at very low current). So between the price, availability, and my circumstances, my interest in the XM series is for now just scholarly.
 
Ok..an ATS- Algae turf scrubber?? Interesting :) I have a healthy POM scrubber on the bottom portion of my main display..and in my sump. Then there is my cheato 20 gal :) So your expanding your new setup?? Please tell!
As far as my LED fixture is concerned, i will be able to pivot each U channel section and angle each LED on that channel. Thanks to Fishmans unique adaptation. What i did is to further modify that version by also angling the fixture frame itself as well and, the direction the U channels,(from front of tank to back). This way, when using the CAT drivers i can dim up and down one U channel at a time from east to west as the day progresses. The XM-Ls will be on their own U channel,(1 channel per tank section), and dim up and down for a period of 4 hours to sim full sunlight. So, i guess Wid, myself and at least one other of us will be the pioneers so to speak with the XM-Ls. Least on this fourm :) I`m crazy like that though..or just plain reckless >;).
 
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