DIY LEDs - The write-up

[TheFishMan65]

The Vf can range +/- 10% for a given current. So if you got all the low ones one one string and all the high ones on another you could run into problems. Chances of that happening are fairly low, but a difference of 5% (I think this is what kcress recommends) are easily possible.

Yes, a few minutes, but IIRC you must periodically go back and check them as Vf may change over time.

 

[chris023]

A bit off topic, but I was wondering if anyone knows how long it generally takes orders from Cutter to reach someone (So Cal in this case)? I got an email on an order I placed saying it was shipped on 3/18 (coming up on 2 weeks).

 

[wfournier]

A bit off topic, but I was wondering if anyone knows how long it generally takes orders from Cutter to reach someone (So Cal in this case)? I got an email on an order I placed saying it was shipped on 3/18 (coming up on 2 weeks).

My Last order shipped on the 3rd and I received it on the 18th. I'm on the east coast though, near Philly.

I had emailed them about the transit time and along with some information about when my order shipped got this comment:

I have noticed things have been taking lately a little longer to reach customers not sure why some people have said there parcels were held up by Customs

 

[chris023]

My Last order shipped on the 3rd and I received it on the 18th. I'm on the east coast though, near Philly.

I had emailed them about the transit time and along with some information about when my order shipped got this comment:

Cool, thanks for the info.

 

[koensayr]

Directional fluorescence?

Directional fluorescence?

I wasn't sure where to post this, but since many people here deal with the CREE LED's, I thought I would try in this thread.

So I have a simple DIY based on 3 CREE XPG cool white and 3 royal blue. There is a picture of it somewhere earlier in this thread.

I recently purchased a crocea clam. I got it from the store because it had this cool fluorescent color. This is a picture of the clam under some natural sunlight coming in from the window behind the tank:

And here is a picture of the clam under the LED, it is fairly close to what it looks like to the naked eye:

So what wavelength do you think is causing that kind of teal color? It does not show up at all under the LED. However, I noticed that under natural light, the fluorescence is directional. Depending on which angle I am looking at the clam (not which angle the incoming light is), I will either see that nice fluorescent color, or I will just see the more purplish color that I see under the LED.

Has anyone encountered something like this? The button polyps I have look much more colorful under the LED than the natural sun light.

 

[swenholz]

The Warm white has a much greater 450 nm blue and little of the longer green wavelengths. I would think that the 475-500 nm blue/green transitional wavelengths are what you are missing.

It's too bad you aren't a bit closer, I would be curoius to see how it looks under my LED array. I added 13% red and 13% Green LEDs to a 60/40 of white to blue. I woulder if that would get you what you are looking for.

 

[patmack]

The Warm white has a much greater 450 nm blue and little of the longer green wavelengths. I would think that the 475-500 nm blue/green transitional wavelengths are what you are missing.

It's too bad you aren't a bit closer, I would be curoius to see how it looks under my LED array. I added 13% red and 13% Green LEDs to a 60/40 of white to blue. I woulder if that would get you what you are looking for.

That is an interesting array. Do you have a build thread or any photos at least?

 

[swenholz]

Build thread is here
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1743394

and a few pictures

and now that I lookat it....the green in my hammer is very similar to your clam.

 

[wfournier]

I wasn't sure where to post this, but since many people here deal with the CREE LED's, I thought I would try in this thread.

So I have a simple DIY based on 3 CREE XPG cool white and 3 royal blue. There is a picture of it somewhere earlier in this thread.

I recently purchased a crocea clam. I got it from the store because it had this cool fluorescent color. This is a picture of the clam under some natural sunlight coming in from the window behind the tank:

And here is a picture of the clam under the LED, it is fairly close to what it looks like to the naked eye:

So what wavelength do you think is causing that kind of teal color? It does not show up at all under the LED. However, I noticed that under natural light, the fluorescence is directional. Depending on which angle I am looking at the clam (not which angle the incoming light is), I will either see that nice fluorescent color, or I will just see the more purplish color that I see under the LED.

Has anyone encountered something like this? The button polyps I have look much more colorful under the LED than the natural sun light.

What does the clam look like top down in your tank? It is normal for clams to look very different depending on the angle the light is coming from, usually looking best top down. I had a spuamosa that top down had a green fringe around it's mantle, through the side of the tank it was blue. In your natural light shot based on the shadow you can tell that the light source was coming from a lower angle than it is in your tank under LEDs. I wouldn't be surprised if top down you see the color you are expecting.

 

[koensayr]

I actually haven't tried looking from the top when the LEDs are on. That's a good point about the incoming angle, the natural light comes in at a much lower angle. This would make sense if the reflectance or fluorescence of specific wavelengths is dependent on the angle between incoming light and viewing position.

I'll try to take a look at the clam one of these days when I am able to get home early enough before the lights turn off. Then it should shed some light between the theories on incoming wavelength or incoming/viewing angle.

swenholz: Do you notice a big difference in coloration with and without the red and green LEDs?

What does the clam look like top down in your tank? It is normal for clams to look very different depending on the angle the light is coming from, usually looking best top down. I had a spuamosa that top down had a green fringe around it's mantle, through the side of the tank it was blue. In your natural light shot based on the shadow you can tell that the light source was coming from a lower angle than it is in your tank under LEDs. I wouldn't be surprised if top down you see the color you are expecting.

 

[swenholz]

swenholz: Do you notice a big difference in coloration with and without the red and green LEDs?

Absolutly, but you be the judge. The FTSs are with my point and shoot around the same time of day. The Tang and shrimp shots are with my Mom's DSLR, also around the same time of day. The settings were the same for both cameras.

Before reds and greens

After reds and greens

The colors are a lot richer with the reds and greens. The red on the skunk cleaners and peppermint shrimp is a lot more viberant and the orange of the clowns is much deeper and more complex.

 

[marc111]

So as was discussed above I wanted to use higher voltage dimmable supplies for my LED panels so I can do series strings. What I need is a 75W that delivers up to 80v for the RB and a 100W that is also up to 80v for the NW. I was going to use the Thomas Research supplies as they fit the requirement. First I called Nanotuners but they said they were not in stock and would not be in until April. Then I called Thomas Research directly. Not only did they also not have any of either series in stock, but when I asked when they would be shipping them, they could not even provide me a date. SIGH.

However, I found a company called Autec Power Systems that seems to make the same identical supply. Specs, packaging, dimming control all look identical. (I am beginning to think these are really made in China) Best of all Arrow Electronics had them in stock. So I bought two. Now I will just need to wait for my LED's and drivers to arrive.

Mark

 

[brassmonkyballs]

So as was discussed above I wanted to use higher voltage dimmable supplies for my LED panels so I can do series strings. What I need is a 75W that delivers up to 80v for the RB and a 100W that is also up to 80v for the NW. I was going to use the Thomas Research supplies as they fit the requirement. First I called Nanotuners but they said they were not in stock and would not be in until April. Then I called Thomas Research directly. Not only did they also not have any of either series in stock, but when I asked when they would be shipping them, they could not even provide me a date. SIGH.

However, I found a company called Autec Power Systems that seems to make the same identical supply. Specs, packaging, dimming control all look identical. (I am beginning to think these are really made in China) Best of all Arrow Electronics had them in stock. So I bought two. Now I will just need to wait for my LED's and drivers to arrive.

Mark

sure do look like the exact same driver but I only see 2 50W models on Arrow site...

 

[PurpleMonster]

Whats up fellas/ladies, so i have been doing a search all day looking for diff LED's setups, but cant seem to find my exact issue. I am plenty sure its in here somewhere but just cant seem to find exactly.

I have a 24X8.4 with 48LED's right now but splitting the sink up..... what i want to do...

Dual 12X8.4 with 30LED's on each, and my problem is i am running a 60/40 mix, but on my sketches i just cant seem to mix them up lol. I have done one but i feel like there is too much blue in some areas and want to avoid spot lighting. I apologize for not finding it in this monstrous thread. Coverage will be for a 36X30X18....

Thank you!!

 

[PurpleMonster]

oh and here is a picture of what it looks like with the 24X8.4(48 XPG R5/XRE 40/60 mix) i still am no good with the camera!! lol:

Thanks

 

[PurpleMonster]

on other question after removing the Stars(if i dont mess any of them up) what would be the best way to clean up the old epoxy. I am sure it would not be a good idea to put more epoxy on top of dried epoxy. If thats the case i think i might just sell the 48 LED Array setup and get a whole new it so that i dont risk breaking any stars.... hrmmmm

 

[swenholz]

on other question after removing the Stars(if i dont mess any of them up) what would be the best way to clean up the old epoxy. I am sure it would not be a good idea to put more epoxy on top of dried epoxy. If thats the case i think i might just sell the 48 LED Array setup and get a whole new it so that i dont risk breaking any stars.... hrmmmm

I ruined a couple in building mine and a razor blade worked just fine for scraping the old epoxy off.

 

[swenholz]

I would go with this for your dual pendant set up.

 

[PurpleMonster]

how did ya remove the stars? or did you ruin them trying to scrape off old epoxy. I Appreciate the input, i want to order the new LED's already but dont want to order only 12 more if i am going to have to rebuild the whole array haha.

 

[PurpleMonster]

scott i appreciate the draw up, i would just be changing the blue to whites, and whites to blues.... I am running XPG R5 whites, and XRE blues, so i have the 40/60 in that manner. Sorry for any confusion. I just didnt want to create anything that would give me spot light effect.

Thanks