DIY LEDs - The write-up
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
- Status
davidpesce
New member
Look at the Cree specs, the more expensive ones have higher lumen output.
westreef
Lost as usual
JAustin,
I have RKL and ALC module. So far I have no problem of using the ALC module to drive total of 2 MeanWell dimmer inputs -- one control for one dimmer input. ALC has two control outputs. Since MeanWell driver requires considerable current to drive its dimmer input, the ALC control might not be able to drive more than 2 dimmer inputs. Please look through the DigitalAquatic forum for this issue. There are suggestions to how to resolve this problem. Good luck.
brassmonkyballs
BMB
XPG's put out about 30% more than XRE CW. XPG 139lm @350ma vs XRE 107lm @ 350ma.
XPE about 25% better...XPE RB 500mW vs XPE RB 425mW
So you have better efficiency and more output for a higher cost.The initial thought may be you need less of them but depending on tank size thats probably not the case because of coverage concerns. Whether its worth the extra $ is purely up to you. I tend to always want the latest and greatest myself.
XPE about 25% better...XPE RB 500mW vs XPE RB 425mW
So you have better efficiency and more output for a higher cost.The initial thought may be you need less of them but depending on tank size thats probably not the case because of coverage concerns. Whether its worth the extra $ is purely up to you. I tend to always want the latest and greatest myself.
S2minute
New member
Sq in of a tank for LEDS
Sq in of a tank for LEDS
I read the requirment for keeping certain types of corals and the amount of LEDS you need. So, i have a 175 gal bow front and i`m figuring around 1584 Sq inches to surface area. NOW, i plan on using 165 LEDs total on that tank.
21 will be Xm-L T6 CW/WW the rest will be XP-Gs and XP-E RB. Sooo..THAT end up being about 1 LED per 9.6 sq inches lol...ummm yikes. Unless i have the sq inches of tank surface wrong? Anyway, the times each string will power up/down will be staggered with the XM-Ls on the least amount of time plus, at first they will be dimmed way down for accumulation. Hoping i`ll still be ok with this. Any input?
Sq in of a tank for LEDS
I read the requirment for keeping certain types of corals and the amount of LEDS you need. So, i have a 175 gal bow front and i`m figuring around 1584 Sq inches to surface area. NOW, i plan on using 165 LEDs total on that tank.
21 will be Xm-L T6 CW/WW the rest will be XP-Gs and XP-E RB. Sooo..THAT end up being about 1 LED per 9.6 sq inches lol...ummm yikes. Unless i have the sq inches of tank surface wrong? Anyway, the times each string will power up/down will be staggered with the XM-Ls on the least amount of time plus, at first they will be dimmed way down for accumulation. Hoping i`ll still be ok with this. Any input?
TheFishMan65
New member
The more efficient onea will also pay for themselves over time by using less electricity.
If they are staggered you maybe fine. If not turn them all down some. Do you have access to a PAR meter?
If they are staggered you maybe fine. If not turn them all down some. Do you have access to a PAR meter?
DYI LEDs
DYI LEDs
Started reading this thread saturday at page 1 now have moved from 2009 to 2011 wow! Question while ck-ing some DYI suppliers I came across a supplier Steve's LED's. Any input on him? makes in house power supplies, and drivers, sells Epistar leds. He says that his products are plug & play type ( no soldering )
Any information please. Thanks. now I think I'll get back to my led education, maybe I'll move up to the 2010's
DYI LEDs
Started reading this thread saturday at page 1 now have moved from 2009 to 2011 wow! Question while ck-ing some DYI suppliers I came across a supplier Steve's LED's. Any input on him? makes in house power supplies, and drivers, sells Epistar leds. He says that his products are plug & play type ( no soldering )
Any information please. Thanks. now I think I'll get back to my led education, maybe I'll move up to the 2010's
TheFishMan65
New member
This thread talks about Steve's LEDs. I think it was the one that had good information. IMHO Steve's LED probably have the right wavelength (didn't study that), but they re not as efficient as the newer Cree. IIRC he has finally reached the XR-E range where as Cree is 2 generation past that. What does that mean? It means that for X amount of light you will need more LEDs and/or more electricity. It kind of depends how long you will be keeping them for. IIRC 3-4 years and the Cree have paid for the difference.
I'm thinking of a DIY LED system for my 36" x 24" x 16" tank. I was thinking of going with an AI Sol Blue unit, but budgetary issues have me more inclined to go with a DIY. I've already built my cabinet through the DIY cabinet/stand thread here, so I thought I might be able to put this together since there is great info here.
Anyway, I have NO IDEA where to begin. I looked at Rapidled.com and they have several kits. Any thoughts on how I should approach this project or can anyone provide any direction? Thanks in advance!
Anyway, I have NO IDEA where to begin. I looked at Rapidled.com and they have several kits. Any thoughts on how I should approach this project or can anyone provide any direction? Thanks in advance!
TheFishMan65
New member
Follow my signature to the Summary. That is a great place to start. Then come back with follow up questions.
I went to the Cree website and on the data sheet it states for CW XP-E 5000-10000Kelvin with 1000mA max, but with CW XP-G it's 5000-8300 Kelvin and 1500mA max. So which is better?? Either way most or should I say all people that I have read post on are not even using max lighting. I keep reading that they are only using up too 80% because they are too bright. So I keep going back and forth on which typr of cool white I want to get. What's your take on it??
^^^^
The standard here is to go with the XP-G's right now. I have not seen many if any people using the XP-E whites. The newer question is XM-L's, but there seems to be somewhat of a feeling that the XM-L's do not really become worth it until you start using more than 1.5 A, and for the drivers most people have been using which only goto 1.3, they may not be worth the money.
The standard here is to go with the XP-G's right now. I have not seen many if any people using the XP-E whites. The newer question is XM-L's, but there seems to be somewhat of a feeling that the XM-L's do not really become worth it until you start using more than 1.5 A, and for the drivers most people have been using which only goto 1.3, they may not be worth the money.
TheFishMan65
New member
Look at the price. I expect the XP-G will be cheaper because they are so much more popular.
65, Thanks for the info. Just got thru with the RC & DFW threads on Steves LEDs lot of pros and cons. @ your--IIRC 3-4 years and the Cree have paid for the difference makes sense but with the cost of gas now days, I'm trading my caddy for a volkswagen.
vthondaboi
Premium Member
So have or will XMLs become teh standard or are XPGs still it?
S2minute
New member
LEDs
LEDs
According to the documentation for the CAT drivers Bam, you can use 2 CAT drivers in parallel. So you can use them for the XM-Ls...looks like i`ll be trying that.
LEDs
According to the documentation for the CAT drivers Bam, you can use 2 CAT drivers in parallel. So you can use them for the XM-Ls...looks like i`ll be trying that.
TheFishMan65
New member
I just did a large buy and XP-G CW were $4.65 and XM-L T6 CW were $7.88. So XP-G CW were the choice. Now XP-G WW were $4.87 and XM-L T3 WW were $5.61. Most still went XP-G, if I needed any WW I probably would have done the XM-L for only $0.80 more.
So to decide you really need to look at the price difference and how long you plan to run/keep them.
I think this math works. At 12 hours a day * 3 watts * 28 days you use 1000 kw. So to make up $0.80 at $0.12 per kilowatt you need to save 7 kilowatts. So if the XM-Ls are 30% more efficeint. In ten months the XP-G have been burning 10kW, but for the same light the XM-L only used 7kW. The T6 would require about 4 times longer 40 months (3 1/3 years).
Welcome back SoundWave
[EDIT]
Oops I only saved 3 kw so everything needs to a little more than double
So to decide you really need to look at the price difference and how long you plan to run/keep them.
I think this math works. At 12 hours a day * 3 watts * 28 days you use 1000 kw. So to make up $0.80 at $0.12 per kilowatt you need to save 7 kilowatts. So if the XM-Ls are 30% more efficeint. In ten months the XP-G have been burning 10kW, but for the same light the XM-L only used 7kW. The T6 would require about 4 times longer 40 months (3 1/3 years).
Welcome back SoundWave
[EDIT]
Oops I only saved 3 kw so everything needs to a little more than double
- Status
