DIY LEDs - The write-up

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The 10k may work or may over stress the driver. It depends on how much current can be supplied on the 10 volt line. Roughly speaking with half the resistance the current will double. Check the spec sheet and see what the 10 volts can supply.

Yes, I agree with the way you are reading note 2.
 
I looked at one TR driver and it only had gnd and a the dimming input. So I if you can't figure it out point me at the data sheet.

FYI: that driver could source a max of 1 ma (10 volts / 10,000 ohms = 1 ma). So you you me running it at it's maximum. Doable, but may lead to early failure.
 
TheFishMan65 said:
The 10k may work or may over stress the driver. It depends on how much current can be supplied on the 10 volt line. Roughly speaking with half the resistance the current will double. Check the spec sheet and see what the 10 volts can supply.

Yes, I agree with the way you are reading note 2.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply.

This is the dimming control specs. Hope this provides enough information.

Spec sheet: http://www.thomasresearchproducts.com/LEDDatasheets/TRC-040 Dimming Series 09-20-09.pdf
Mine is the TRC-040S105DS

TRCDriverPotWiring2.jpg


I guess let me know if it is worthwhile going to a different pot. I definitely dont want to wreck the drivers.
 
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Well it says it can source 2 ma so a 10k should be ok. I would still try and get a 20k since that is what they recommend, but I don't see an issue with the 10k. Maybe someone will double check me.
 
Hi Guys,
Ive been through the thread and have a couple of questions:
on my 120Gal Long I have 2 250W Radium MH's. I need to add another but do not want the extra heat, so I have decided I am going to do a 24LED Build between the two MH's.

I was thinking the following combination:
12 RB XP-E's
2 Blue XP-E's
8 CW XP-G's
2 NW XP-G's
on a 5.9" X 9" Heat Sink
Driven by 2 ELN60-48D's controlled via Apex.

How does this combination sound? Also I wanted to have the Blues on one string and the whites on another but I figure this will not be possible as I am limited 12 LED's per string. Is this correct? If so should i put the Blue XP-E's on the White string?

The other question I have is for a bigger build that i am planning in the future and I am looking at the HLG series drivers for this build. Is there any way that I can limit the maximum current output on the HLG's other than the diming being done with the Apex? In other words if for some reason the Apex went to 100% by accident I would like to have a way that the 100% will be at a maximum current setting that I am comfortable with. I dont even know if this is possible.
 
Except for the blues it's about the same combination I'm gonna have, so yes, it sounds good to me;)
But then again; it could get pretty annoying after a while when the LED-colors don't match the MH's.
I know you can adjust the output, but if that will be sufficient ....??
Maybe you should buy 1 extra LED of each color, that way you can change the total LED-color-mix to match the MHs as close as possible.

I don't think you're in big trouble having 14 Blue's (RBs and Bs) hooked up on one 60-48 if you run them between 700 and 900mA.
Even at 1A - 14 of those critters will only ask for 49 volts (14x3.5), and from what I've been reading, they seem to put out a tiny little bit more than what the specs says.
So running 14 XP-E's anywhere below 1A, would keep you out of the woods and should match the MW 60-48.
 
Jimmy54 said:
Except for the blues it's about the same combination I'm gonna have, so yes, it sounds good to me;)
But then again; it could get pretty annoying after a while when the LED-colors don't match the MH's.
I know you can adjust the output, but if that will be sufficient ....??
Maybe you should buy 1 extra LED of each color, that way you can change the total LED-color-mix to match the MHs as close as possible.

I don't think you're in big trouble having 14 Blue's (RBs and Bs) hooked up on one 60-48 if you run them between 700 and 900mA.
Even at 1A - 14 of those critters will only ask for 49 volts (14x3.5), and from what I've been reading, they seem to put out a tiny little bit more than what the specs says.
So running 14 XP-E's anywhere below 1A, would keep you out of the woods and should match the MW 60-48.
Click to expand...

Great this sounds good! So if I am putting 14 on one driver the next question would be is it ok to put 10 on the other or will that cause issues?
 
peiloy3196 said:
Thanks Fishman. I thought that the only adjustments that could be done on the HLG was with the dimming wires. This is good news!
Click to expand...
Sorry ... not good news.
The HLG- B series are only dimmable/adjustable through one of the three dimming options. The HLG A series are only adjustable - V and C - by internal pots and are not dimmable by one of the other options the B series have. Sorry, it isn't any other way.
peiloy3196 said:
next question would be is it ok to put 10 on the other or will that cause issues?
Click to expand...
No issues whatsoever;)
 
Jimmy is correct, I was looking up the data sheet.

The ELN do a have a minimum output voltage it is either 3 or 6 LEDs so if you want to go lower than ten check the minimum, but 10 is fine.
 
Jimmy54 said:
Sorry ... not good news.
The HLG- B series are only dimmable/adjustable through one of the three dimming options. The HLG A series are only adjustable - V and C - by internal pots and are not dimmable by one of the other options the B series have. Sorry, it isn't any other way.

No issues whatsoever;)
Click to expand...

:debi:. If I put a fast blow fuse on each parallel string will it protect the LED's in the event that the Apex accidentally went to 100%?

Or am I missing something here?
 
peiloy3196 said:
:debi:. If I put a fast blow fuse on each parallel string will it protect the LED's in the event that the Apex accidentally went to 100%?

Or am I missing something here?
Click to expand...

Ya fuses are a good idea. check back a few pages I posted a link to digi-key they have some Pico very fast blow fuses.
Digi-key has way fast shipping BTW.
 
Jimmy54 said:
Sorry ... not good news.
The HLG- B series are only dimmable/adjustable through one of the three dimming options. The HLG A series are only adjustable - V and C - by internal pots and are not dimmable by one of the other options the B series have. Sorry, it isn't any other way.

No issues whatsoever;)
Click to expand...

I think you can adjust the current on the B type with resistors also.
 
IMO .. fuses are always a good.
Also when a LED in a string fails, the remaning current - not used anymore by that string - will be tranfered to the other string(s) and too much current will eventually blow the next LED in that string - and when you'r lucky only one because a LED will act as a fuse, meaning cutting off all power to the rest of the LEDs in that string.

I would better be safe than sorry and spend a few cents on a couple fuses instead of ..... well, you know what you have payed or going to pay for an LED. ;)
 
patmack said:
I think you can adjust the current on the B type with resistors also.
Click to expand...
Correct, that's one of the three options.
But I'm not sure whether you need a special kind of resistor or a simple 100K ohm potentiometer
Perhaps someone else knows and could answer that.
 
Regular old 100k should work, but then how do you control it by the apex?

I have thoughts, but don't know for sure they will work. So here goes. What if ....
Connect the Apex to the outer pins of a potentiometer. Then connect the HLG to the ground and center pin. You should then be able to run the Apex full scale, but the potentiometer will limit the voltage going to the HLG. So the pot is set for 70k and if you can ignore the ..

APEX + line ------+
..................| 3 volt drop
HLG DIM + --------+
..................| 7 volt drop
APEX - line ------+ HLG DIM -

And the HLG should be running at 70%. This should theoretically work for PWM also.

Thought?
 
Alternatively, you may be able to make one of these. I made one for my Apex so that the max voltage going to the driver will be 9.1V regardless of how much the Apex sends. Learned it from Nuclearheli's build as he measured near 12v from his apex which overdrove his LEDs. Didnt think of it until now but I would imagine you could build one with any level diode you needed to limit the V going to the driver.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1975251&page=31

The only downside may be that the range for dimming will be narrowed so I dont know how smoothly the LEDs will ramp. Instead of 0-10V you may only have 0-5 or 6 V.
 
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