DIY LEDs - The write-up

Status
Not open for further replies.
TheFishMan65 said:
Regular old 100k should work, but then how do you control it by the apex?

I have thoughts, but don't know for sure they will work. So here goes. What if ....
Connect the Apex to the outer pins of a potentiometer. Then connect the HLG to the ground and center pin. You should then be able to run the Apex full scale, but the potentiometer will limit the voltage going to the HLG. So the pot is set for 70k and if you can ignore the ..

APEX + line ------+
..................| 3 volt drop
HLG DIM + --------+
..................| 7 volt drop
APEX - line ------+ HLG DIM -

And the HLG should be running at 70%. This should theoretically work for PWM also.

Thought?
Click to expand...

Hmm this would be great if it works!
 
build for 90g

build for 90g

So I'm planning out a build for my 90g mixed reef. What I got so far is a rig of 48 cree leds. 20 XPE royal blue bin 16, 12 XPE Blue, 12 XRE Cool White, and 4 XRE warm white. The reasoning behind the color choice is I want blues mixed in so I don't have the "grape jelly" look when the whites are off at sunrise/set, I want ATI Blue+ look, and the warm whites for a bit of red color. They'll be run on 4 Meanwell ELN 60-48D Drivers. One string of 12 royal blue, one string of 12 blue, one string of 8 royal blue/4 cool white, and one string of 8 cool white/4 warm white. I plan on using 40 degree optics on all but the warm whites. The leds will be mounted on aluminum c channel with thermal adhesive pads.

I have XREs in there instead of XPGs because I can't seem to find cool white XPGs on Cutter's website. Anyone have a link?

Will there be a problem mixing the XRE and XPE on the same string, besides the XRE's running underpowered? Should I put the warm whites on their own string so I can run them lower than the other leds? Can multiple drivers' dimmers be hooked together so they only take up one dimming port on an Apex?
 
I am just building a new LED and i noticed that the LED drivers i purchased are 1050ma. I am planning a mix of XP-E and XP-G LEDs. Can the XP-E LEDs handle the extra 50ma. I am using a dimming function and will run the LEDs slightly dimmed but it is more to do with if they are turned up to the max 1050ma.
 
I don't think they will blow right away - but it sure will shorten their expected lifespan dramatically when running them above max.
(These effects can happen overtime in case of electrical overstress) even if you can keep them really cool.
I'd rather stay on the safe side and run them at 1A max. (or preferably a little less than 1 amp)
 
Hi all,

Great thread. I currently built a led light, but did it with the rb/cw 1:1 ratio and I have to say I'm not impressed with the colour. So I have ordered some more leds to swap out 16 of the cw's. This is the config I'm setting up.

28 RB
8 NW
8 CW
4 CB

Total of 48 led's over a 48" 90g I have a pic of the grid layout below. All replies, criticism is welcome.

led.grids.jpg


Thanks.
 
Any harm in painting some of the heatsink a flat black?

Not the whole thing....I am using C channel aluminum, and the back of it will be bare, and obviously under the LEDs as well.

Looking online I get anything from it actually helps to hurts...either one just a smidge.
 
I think it depends on the type of paint. I have read that black heat sink actually radiate the heat better, but if you get the wrong kind of paint it may act as an insulator. I think what you really need is to anodize (I believe is the correct term) the aluminum.
 
Anodizing would be best, but a light coat of spray paint should be fine. Do not paint it because you think that "will help" it probably won't and if it did somehow, I doubt the 0.05 degrees difference would matter in the least.
 
Input needed for color temp/blending color

Input needed for color temp/blending color

I am trying to decide on how many whites vs blues to go with for my 300 gallon aquarium. Leds will be Cree xm-l neutral white and Cree xp-e royal blues and I prefer a 10-12k color temp.

Option 1
144 royals at 600mA for 750mW/LED
72 NW at 2A for 637 lumens/LED
2:1 Ratio

Option 2
144 royals at 600mA for 750mW/LED
36 NW at 2A for 637 lumens/LED
3:1 Ratio

Option 3
144 royals at 600mA for 750mW/LED
72 NW at 900mA for 325 lumens/LED
2:1 Ratio

I would prefer to go with option 2 because it will save a significant amount of money for LEDs/drivers/optics. However, am worried that colors might not blend at all. I don't want the tank to be uniform though, because I prefer it to look more natural so some dark/un-blended spots are ok. Open to all and any suggestions/recommendations.
 
Been using mine about 6 weeks now no optics about 4 inches over the water. Working great!!! I have a purely linear color setup with xp-g and xp-e leds. With 13 per string. I have been very happy.
 
What is the average mA people are running the xp-e and xp-g LEDs? I have 4 meanwell 60-48D's and 24 RB xp-e and 24 CW xp-g LEDs. The blues are wired separate from the whites.

Thanks
 
The concept is pretty much the same.
- pick a driver (ELNs and HLG are the most common)
- pick your LEDs (XP-G CW and some NW, and XP-E RB)
Try reading the summary also and let us know what other information you need.

[EDIT]
I forgot you will probably want 1 ohm 2-5 watt fuses in line for measuring current and if using the HLG fuses for each string.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

R
DIY AI-coded ESP32 based aquarium controller
Replies
0
Views
308
ronnyking
R
AquaticReefTV
DIY Cable management time lapse
Replies
1
Views
531
S|\/|S
S
AZBigJohn
New Build... I'm back
Replies
15
Views
446
Dustin07
D
B
Beam Deflection - 15 years and I finally broke down and wrote a how to.
Replies
16
Views
915
BeanAnimal
B
A
Fleece filter bypass problems (Innovitech X filter)
Replies
1
Views
39
Vinny Kreyling
Vinny Kreyling
Back
Top