DIY LEDs - The write-up

[TheFishMan65]

B B N B B B C B B B N B B B C B B B N B B B C B B B N B B B C B B B N B B B C B B B N B B B C B

I think I have it figured out. Just seems odd to have some drivers with one string and some with two. You might consider an HLG for the RB rather than 3 ELN which I think is what you plan.

 

[TheFishMan65]

For those that have experimented with the HLG series. Has anyone figured out how to use less current? Say the output is 48 volts 3.9 amps. What if I only want 2 string at 1 amp each and the drop will only be around 39 volts?

TIA

 

[SC Reefaholic]

If you already own one then I'm not sure. If you are looking to purchase then look at a smaller 100 watt model. I am looking at the HLG-100H-42B for that very reason. 2 strings of 10 XP-G at a little over 1 amp each. See my post on the last page. Its either that or the Thomas Research 100 watt drivers. I havent decided yet.

 

[TheFishMan65]

That maybe the only solution, but if I decide I need more light then I have to buy a new driver so I was hoping there was a better option. I have not purchased anything just thinking it through.

 

[ti-christ]

Hello guys/ladies,

I was following this thread a year ago but i have skipped the last 6 months. At this time, I had no money to build my fixture but now I am ready to build it.

Since 6 months, it's very long. I would like to hear your opinion on best LED I can use to build my fixture over my 180 gallons 6'x2'x2'. There are 2 braces on top of the tank, therefore I would like to build 3 fixtures. I keep mostly SPS and LPS.

Currently, I have 14K 250W HQI pheonix bulb. So I want to get about the same color rendering.

So, could you suggest me LED type (XPE, XPG,XM), LED pattern (RB, CW, NW,etc.), LED BIN (color and intensity), number of LED per fixture, LED spacing?

I want minimize the shimming effect (color separation), is it better to reduce spacing between LED and use lens to minimize this effect? The fixture can be up to 24-30 inches over the tank.

I know my question are not precision but from your recombination, I will design my fixture and I will summit to you for review!!!

 

[bsk997]

Anybody put the drivers with all the cables and pot in a project box?
I was thinking about consolidating my 4 drivers into 2 box but was trying to get an idea what people used?
The drivers get kinda warm so I'm afraid putting them into a box would get them even hotter and run outta spec?

 

[kcress]

Fish: You either have to shunt the current with a resistor acting as string 4 or you just dim it down to 75%.

bsk997; Don't forget these things give off heat that needs to leave. Failure of a fan should not burn your house down either...

 

[dirland]

Fish: thanks for the layout that looks like it will work, I had something similar in mind.

are the HLN dimmable drivers available, I know rapid had limited quantities for a bit but I don't see them anymore. Do you know of anywhere to get them right now?

 

[dlp211]

Fish: thanks for the layout that looks like it will work, I had something similar in mind.

are the HLN dimmable drivers available, I know rapid had limited quantities for a bit but I don't see them anymore. Do you know of anywhere to get them right now?

I don't know which ones you want exactly, but try wattsupply. I am getting my HLGs from them, unfortunately there is a huge demand and low supply of these drivers right now. You should email them to make sure that they have the one you want in stock. I ordered 2 from them and I only got 1; but they called me and asked what I wanted to do and I opted to wait for the second one; and the lead times on these things right now are in the months for the 185 models.

 

[brassmonkyballs]

Guess I'm lucky I got mine before word spread on availability. But wattsupply took care of me.

 

[chriscobb]

Call Peak to Peak Power and ask for Jon....They will have a shipment of the HLG-185H-48B coming in the 3rd week of July!!!!!

 

[TheFishMan65]

kcress, That is what I figured, but wanted a second opinion.

And

Failure of a fan should not burn your house down either...

You need to stop taking all the fun out of it

 

[peiloy3196]

kcress, That is what I figured, but wanted a second opinion.

And

You need to stop taking all the fun out of it

I installed two eln 60-48d drivers in a plastic project box with resistors and fuses. Did this about a week ago when putting together my build. Its been running for a few days now at about 10 percent as i am slowly acclimating my coral. Should i be worried?

Maybe i could put some vent holes in the top cover?

 

[TheFishMan65]

How warm is the inside getting?

 

[peiloy3196]

How warm is the inside getting?

When i was testing my build i ran both drivers at 700 ma wich is my maximum setting for half an hour in the closed box. I then took of the top cover and checked the temperature using an infrared thermometer which said it was 110F.

 

[TheFishMan65]

IMO if the box was at the same temperature for the test as it will be for operation (in an enclosed stand might make it warmer) then that temperature is reasonable, but if easy to do I would add some ventilation. kcress will probably correct me if I am wrong.

 

[peiloy3196]

The box is mounted on the top of my canopy so there should be no additional heat. If adding ventilation holes, will holes on the top cover be adequate or will it need to be all over the project box. Also will active cooling be needed ie fan?

 

[lpsouth1978]

I completed another LED build a few weeks ago and have it running over my tank. The tank is a 3g picotope and the light has 6 RB XPE and 6 CW XPG leds. all of the LED's are run at 1000mA using dimmable buckpucks. I have been running them at 100%.

I was able to borrow a PAR meter from a fellow reefer yesterday and took these readings.

Directly below light (out of water) = 1065
1 inch below water surface = 535
6 inches below water surface (on sand) = 270

What I need to know is are these PAR readings good or should I adjust the light. I can lower the light to increase the PAR, or I can dim the LED's to lower the PAR. I was thinking these reading were about what is wanted but would like someone with more knowledge to chime in.

 

[TheFishMan65]

I don't know what PAR should be with LEDs (or if anyone does) but IMHO those are 2-3 times what they need to be.

 

[kcress]

peiloy3196; Groan... Doing stuff in plastic boxes is so tempting but it's a, um, not good idea.

Whenever electronics are put into plastic it's always fire-proof. It's a type that will char and smoke but will not catch-fire itself. Plastic storage bins are made from 'cheap' plastic that has no fire rating - except for maybe the number of BTU's it will provide the fire it's in....

Another problem is that a plastic box begs to have things stacked on it. So someone makes a system and it's marginal temp-wise. 95% of the heat leaves out the top of these boxes. You see where this is going? After the focus on the box is lost a year down the road someone stacks something on top of it.... ====> "The fire report shows the fire began in the vicinity of the aquarium."

The other issue is that everything may be fine now. What happens if something changes. Your tested situation may go right out the window. An example would be a driver that has an internal failure that doesn't cause its own circuit protection to trip!

I am currently working with an RC member whose ELN is running so hot he can't touch it... What happens when that happens to the plastic mounted driver the day you leave on vacation?

I'd re-do your build in a metal, container of some sort. I know it sux..