DIY LEDs - The write-up
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
- Status
kcress
New member
Toothpick production!
wid; Do not consider painting the contacts with flux. BAD IDEA.
DO consider getting some good rosin flux cored solder. 44 is the best.
And now, since you've already mounted the LEDs, you will want a stout soldering iron that is at least 800F preferably more.
widmer
Drug Enthusiast
I do already have rosin core solder, but I was under the opinion that painting the contacts would be more effective...so why not?:fun5:
stugray
Premium Member
I posted this on another thread, but I'll repeat it here:
Here is the proper method for doing this:
1 - Pre solder 2 ( + - ) or all 4 pads on the Star. You can even do this while they are all still on the carrier boards they should have come on ( they are all stuck together ).
2 - Use 18 gauge, insulated solid copper, pre-tinned wire. I find this at HD as "thermostat wire" but you might have to strip the sheathing off as it comes in 2X ( I think red & white).
3 - pre tin the ends of the wire, layout & tape it down or hold somehow. This is small wire, but holds its shape, you can get very precise runs. The end of the wire should be pressing down on the solder pads on each end.
4 - prepare your soldering iron tip: apply solder, wipe on wet sponge till "shiny" apply more solder till a small drop forms.
5 - hold the end of the wire down on the LED solder pad with the tip of the iron & press on the wire until it sinks into the LED solder pad pile, remove soldering iron tip & HOLD THE WIRE, if it moves while cooling , do it over - HOT Oww... mental note - use pliers ;-)
You need to have a way to rework a joint that is messed up and the only real way is with Solder Wick.
It is used to remove all the solder from a bad joint. It is expensive but well worth it if you are serious about getting it right.
Using this method, you can get perfect joints almost every time and be very fast. The key is using the right wire.
Stu
Here is the proper method for doing this:
1 - Pre solder 2 ( + - ) or all 4 pads on the Star. You can even do this while they are all still on the carrier boards they should have come on ( they are all stuck together ).
2 - Use 18 gauge, insulated solid copper, pre-tinned wire. I find this at HD as "thermostat wire" but you might have to strip the sheathing off as it comes in 2X ( I think red & white).
3 - pre tin the ends of the wire, layout & tape it down or hold somehow. This is small wire, but holds its shape, you can get very precise runs. The end of the wire should be pressing down on the solder pads on each end.
4 - prepare your soldering iron tip: apply solder, wipe on wet sponge till "shiny" apply more solder till a small drop forms.
5 - hold the end of the wire down on the LED solder pad with the tip of the iron & press on the wire until it sinks into the LED solder pad pile, remove soldering iron tip & HOLD THE WIRE, if it moves while cooling , do it over - HOT Oww... mental note - use pliers ;-)
You need to have a way to rework a joint that is messed up and the only real way is with Solder Wick.
It is used to remove all the solder from a bad joint. It is expensive but well worth it if you are serious about getting it right.
Using this method, you can get perfect joints almost every time and be very fast. The key is using the right wire.
Stu
Crazy35111
New member
Finally completed the project and got it all programmed and running. I used 72 LEDs (36 CREE XRE-WG-Q5 on Star and 36 CREE XRE-RB on Star). I then used 6 Meanwell ELN-60-48D driver to power them. Nanotuners.com has excellent prices and awesome customer support. So far it appears my corals and fish are LOVING the lights, especially the 2 toadstools.
[/IMG]
kcress
New member
wid; You don't need anywhere near that much flux. Half the time adding any ends up being waaaAAAAAy too much. Then you have sticky goo everywhere. Just the amount in the solder is often a bit too much especially when working on fresh tinned non oxidized surfaces.
As for burnt up stars. That comes from people using soldering irons that are too gutless. This means long hold times which translate to everything getting hot. Oh and using wire that's needlessly over sized.
As for burnt up stars. That comes from people using soldering irons that are too gutless. This means long hold times which translate to everything getting hot. Oh and using wire that's needlessly over sized.
stealle
Premium Member
I don't see where it say "pre-tinned"???
Crazy35111
New member
They are 2" on the length part and an 1 1/4" on the depth.
90reefernyc
Member
Finally completed the project and got it all programmed and running. I used 72 LEDs (36 CREE XRE-WG-Q5 on Star and 36 CREE XRE-RB on Star). I then used 6 Meanwell ELN-60-48D driver to power them. Nanotuners.com has excellent prices and awesome customer support. So far it appears my corals and fish are LOVING the lights, especially the 2 toadstools.
[/IMG]
Hey Crazy I see you have the profilux controller, are you using it to control your leds? I am currently trying to do the same thing and was looking for some ideas. Do you have a build thread? Also is that some kind of cover you have on the bottom of the fixture?
Thank you , Jimmy
sammy113
New member
It doesn't say anything. I can tell you cause I've ordered 4 times from them now. Heres a pic
Neogenocide
New member
I had mine all mounted and heatsinked before soldering, never had a problem. It was actually some of the easiest soldering I've done. Just keep a clean iron and you won't have any problems.
Scott
Crazy35111
New member
Jimmy,
Yes I am using the Profilux to control my leds, I do not have a build thread, but would be happy to help in any way...you can email me crazy35111@cox.net. I am using the EVG-AP-2f to hook my meanwells up to the controller. I did put a 1/8" piece of plexiglass to protect the leds from any potential water splashes. It may not be the cleaniest setup that I have seen, but it is all enclosed in a canopy. I do have a few L-port expansion cards coming and once I get those, I am planning on cleaning it all up and probably build some shelves under the tank to hold all my chemical.
Hey Crazy I see you have the profilux controller, are you using it to control your leds? I am currently trying to do the same thing and was looking for some ideas. Do you have a build thread? Also is that some kind of cover you have on the bottom of the fixture?
Thank you , Jimmy[/QUOTE]
Yes I am using the Profilux to control my leds, I do not have a build thread, but would be happy to help in any way...you can email me crazy35111@cox.net. I am using the EVG-AP-2f to hook my meanwells up to the controller. I did put a 1/8" piece of plexiglass to protect the leds from any potential water splashes. It may not be the cleaniest setup that I have seen, but it is all enclosed in a canopy. I do have a few L-port expansion cards coming and once I get those, I am planning on cleaning it all up and probably build some shelves under the tank to hold all my chemical.
Hey Crazy I see you have the profilux controller, are you using it to control your leds? I am currently trying to do the same thing and was looking for some ideas. Do you have a build thread? Also is that some kind of cover you have on the bottom of the fixture?
Thank you , Jimmy[/QUOTE]
Crazy35111
New member
If you mount your fixture with cable, I HIGHLY recommend using the turnbuckles...Allows to level out the light much easier than messing with the cable clamps
- Status
