DIY LEDs - The write-up

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14708309#post14708309 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lynxvs
I can't seem to get the pictures to work in a reasonable size. If you want to check out some of my LED pics go to:

http://www.photiczoneled.com/photo_gallery/photo_gallery.htm
Click to expand...

nice fixture :)

i have a great program for you that allows you to do bulk photo resizing &/or renaming at one time. you can either resize by percentage or to a specified dimension. it's a totally free program to download & very easy to use :) i've been using it for years. i dump all the pics off my 8mp to a folder & then resize them to 1024x768 into another folder...leaving the original large pics.

you can also do a bulk watermark add to your pics as well

http://www.faststone.org/FSResizerDetail.htm
 
Lynx,
Question about the PAR picture with 600 PAR and 515. Is that without the eggcrate with the fixture the same distance as this picture?

PAR_2_2_09.jpg


Light_Tank3.jpg


And just to clarify, you are running optics right?
 
Thanks James3370 i'll try it!


apt220
The fixture is 6" above the tank without the eggcrate and spashguard with optics. Those PAR readings are from the latest design with 60 LEDs at the highest lumen bin I could get. The last picture you show the light is about 10" above the tank.
 
Lynxvs, can you tell us more about your fixture? I know you prefer the Rebel LED. Is your fixture using those? Can you provide specs and numbers on them? Are you running three on one star? Also, I assume your using your driver from above, correct? Do you think that driver could be used by us without PCB layout or manufacturing skills?

Thanks!
- E
 
zachtos,

I just looked at the driver you posted above:

http://www.st.com/stonline/products/literature/ds/13415/stcs1.pdf

That is awesome!

You must be very careful if you try to dim a regular Constant current source ( like a buckpuck ) using PWM.
You can blow up the LED ( trust me ;-)

This device even has "LED disconnection diagnostic".

I assume that means it can tell if a LED string goes open or short & can respond to the fault appropriately.

Thanks!

Stu
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14709267#post14709267 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ejmitch
Lynxvs, can you tell us more about your fixture? I know you prefer the Rebel LED. Is your fixture using those? Can you provide specs and numbers on them? Are you running three on one star? Also, I assume your using your driver from above, correct? Do you think that driver could be used by us without PCB layout or manufacturing skills?

Thanks!
- E
Click to expand...

Yes I am using the Rebel LED
http://www.philipslumileds.com/pdfs/DS56.pdf
I'm using the Cool white LXML-PWC1-0100, Royal Blue LXML-PR01-0275 and Cyan LXML-PE01-00070. I mount the LEDs on a PCB board I designed. I started off with Luxeon III stars but hated the wiring. I went with the Rebel because at the time they were the brightest. With the board and controller I designed you could use any LED you like. Here is a pick of the old 50 LED design. I need to take pics of the new and improved.

heatsinkinstall.JPG


The driver must be mounted on a PCB board to work.... it's not difficult to create a PCB go to
http://www.expresspcb.com/
They give you free simple CAD software to design your board.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14712204#post14712204 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by eameres
lynxvs, are you planning on selling kits? any idea on prices?
Click to expand...

Not at the moment I just couldn't get the cost down to where I thought people would buy. The parts alone cost about $700.00 for the light shown. [violation]
 
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For the non PCB types like my self if some one could provide a PCB layout for the stcs 1 and that lets say had 10 chips witch could be populated with as few or as many chips as you need in a file format that works with one of the free online software packages that would be grate because mistakes could be made while trying to learn and design at the same time especially when there are so many experts in this forum that have the expertise to do it right . a PSOC micro controller board would be nice to.
 
I would love either a pre-fabed PCB or a design file. I really like the idea of those drivers and would be willing to try my hand at soldering.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14716342#post14716342 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ejmitch
I would love either a pre-fabed PCB or a design file. I really like the idea of those drivers and would be willing to try my hand at soldering.
Click to expand...

Same here.
 
I've been following along since i found your thread, and i can't wait to make one.

but i think my tank knows i'm reading this because today the lights are not wanting to start.:worried:
 
Would 18 gauge wire be big enough for 6 stars (30v @ 700ma) ? I tried to get 16 gauge at radio shack but they had 18 and 10... 10 looked a bit too fat for my endor tri emitters.
 
Can't you just get it from Home Depot in a three wire bulk reel, then strip it out of the insultation? Or go buy a 7 dollar extension cord and get the wire that way? Just a thought. But I don't know if 18 will work. 1 amp with 24 volts seems like easy labor for an 18 gauge but I'm not an electrician, so don't quote me on that.

Aaron
 
Ryan, the wire table rates 18g is rated at 16amp max & a resistance of 1 ohm/156ft. So for a .7 amp draw the voltage drop would be only 50 millivolts/10 feet. (16 gauge would have a 31millivolt/10 feet.) Therefore no problem.
 
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