DIY LEDs - The write-up
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lilmonster
New member
I'm confused.
please continue
please continue
ReefEnabler
Premium Member
I'm no expert, but you have 60 LED's with a Vf of 3.4-3.6. Lets assume 3.6 to be safe:
3.6 * 60 = 216v needed.
Each puck can take a max of 32v, so at MINIMUM you need 7 pucks which gets you 224v. But Luxeon recommends a buffer of 2 volts per puck. Ie you can only run 30v on a puck thats getting 32v of power.
30*7 = 210, so I think you need 8 buckpucks for that many LEDs.
30v * 8 = 240v.
Also, I'm not sure what kind of controller you want. You talking about a power supply or a device to control on/off/dimming?
Last edited:
kcress
New member
Both. But usually based around ICs that are specifically LED switching drivers. They require inductors, capacitors, additional resistors, and quality board layouts. They're often very hard to hand solder being small, strange, surface mount packages with large under-chip thermal pads requiring good soldering or they toast quickly. (Rather annoying that the makers are doing this.)
http://www.linear.com/pc/viewCategory.jsp?navId=H0,C1,C1003,C1094
and
http://www.national.com/analog/led
LM3404 is a buck converter that is pretty straight forward.
ReefEnabler
Premium Member
Re: IamBIGGUN
If you're talking about this http://www.leddynamics.com/LuxDrive/quadpuck.php,
looks like it already comes with 4 buckpucks and DMX control (I've got no idea how to use it
So I think you'd need two of these. If anybody knows how to interface with DMX dimming I'd be interested to know.
If you're talking about this http://www.leddynamics.com/LuxDrive/quadpuck.php,
looks like it already comes with 4 buckpucks and DMX control (I've got no idea how to use it
So I think you'd need two of these. If anybody knows how to interface with DMX dimming I'd be interested to know.
ReefEnabler
Premium Member
Is that stuff meant for reflow soldering???
kcress
New member
Now we are getting to why hoods like the late Solaris units cost so much.
17W is 17W.. I can't think of how to use them more cheaply...
If you want cheeeeeap. Just get a 12V supply and run it to as many stings as you want leaving a little head room in each.
Then buy a hand full of various multi watt power resistors calculated around the expected operating value.
Hook up everything with an ammeter in series. Pick the highest calculated resistance you need to shave off the excess head.
Fire it up. Make sure the current is lower than the max. Let it run for a while. Note the temperature of the resistor. Don't let it get too hot. You can calculate its power dissipation by noting the amps and then measuring the voltage across it.
A x V = watts it is dissipating. Do not exceed %50 of its rating.
Don't get it near anything that can catch fire. If the current is too low use a lower resistance, too high use a higher resistance. Once you have what you want, let it run for 30 minutes. Check to see if the VFs have shifted due to their operational temperature. Make any resistance changes required.
Once this is all good add a fuse in series that is just slightly larger than the running current. This would prevent the zipper effect - one shorts - current jumps - next one shorts - the rest are damaged.
Yes that's the controller I was talking about.
I didn't explain the first post well. I AM running all 60 but only 30 to a side. So the Buckpucks I was referring to would be for each side.
I was thinking of driving them at 4 volts and 1000 mA for the whites and 3.6volts and 1000 mA for the blues so at what point is it too much for the driver?
Thanks,
Kevin
I didn't explain the first post well. I AM running all 60 but only 30 to a side. So the Buckpucks I was referring to would be for each side.
I was thinking of driving them at 4 volts and 1000 mA for the whites and 3.6volts and 1000 mA for the blues so at what point is it too much for the driver?
Thanks,
Kevin
stugray
Premium Member
ReefEnabler,
" If anybody knows how to interface with DMX dimming I'd be interested to know."
DMX-512 is RS485 serial at 250 Kbaud so it's really just a simple 8 bit serial protocol.
You could control these with a PC serial port and a converter:
http://www.electronics-lab.com/blog/?tag=rs485
Someone would just need to find, or write, the driver software to comply with the protocol.
Stu
" If anybody knows how to interface with DMX dimming I'd be interested to know."
DMX-512 is RS485 serial at 250 Kbaud so it's really just a simple 8 bit serial protocol.
You could control these with a PC serial port and a converter:
http://www.electronics-lab.com/blog/?tag=rs485
Someone would just need to find, or write, the driver software to comply with the protocol.
Stu
stugray
Premium Member
Here is a power supply that is $1 per Watt:
http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/727269-power-supply-40w-18-36vdc-700a-tld1040-36-c0700.html
It might seem expensive at $50, but can drive ~9 LEDs per string.
Stu
http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/727269-power-supply-40w-18-36vdc-700a-tld1040-36-c0700.html
It might seem expensive at $50, but can drive ~9 LEDs per string.
Stu
goofyreefer
Member
Soundwave... I was just wondering how your setup is doing? any problems? blown LED's?
ReefEnabler
Premium Member
Thanks Stu. BTW I haven't forgotten about the Rabbit 4010 PWM project
Its just that having a kid, and setting up the reef itself kind reordered some priorities for a while Once I get these LEDs going I want to try get back into the rest of it. Have you had any progress with the code to dim smoothly??
stugray
Premium Member
ReefEnabler,
"Have you had any progress with the code to dim smoothly??"
The code works just fine but the daughter-board layout wasnt finalized yet ( remember I was still experimenting with which Opto coupler was best ).
However I am gearing up for diving back into it.
I have ALL of the parts in hand.
With getting back from 2 months in Cocoa Beach, Fla. and working 3rd shifts for a few weeks, it messes with the plans.
My current plan is to make a tank controller that is meant for JUST the hood and power control for the Display.
It will have 4-12VDC current control channels for fans, night lights, and LEDs, and ~6 AC power controls for lights, pumps, etc.
It is ALL enet controlled.
I can add more PWM channels, but they would have to be software controlled rather than hardware.
The RCM4010 only has 4 hardware controlled PWM channels.
Stu
"Have you had any progress with the code to dim smoothly??"
The code works just fine but the daughter-board layout wasnt finalized yet ( remember I was still experimenting with which Opto coupler was best ).
However I am gearing up for diving back into it.
I have ALL of the parts in hand.
With getting back from 2 months in Cocoa Beach, Fla. and working 3rd shifts for a few weeks, it messes with the plans.
My current plan is to make a tank controller that is meant for JUST the hood and power control for the Display.
It will have 4-12VDC current control channels for fans, night lights, and LEDs, and ~6 AC power controls for lights, pumps, etc.
It is ALL enet controlled.
I can add more PWM channels, but they would have to be software controlled rather than hardware.
The RCM4010 only has 4 hardware controlled PWM channels.
Stu
Pufferlips
New member
Hello all… Long time reader, first time poster here. I figured it is time to cut my teeth on the forum.
I have a DIY system I am trying to build a lighting system for and decided to go LED since I love the LED’s on my current system.
I am doing 20x20x16 Acrylic rimless reef tank and was wondering what would some of you choose for lighting it up? I want to keep the light about 6-8 inches above the water (which is 3/8-1/2 of an inch from the top)
I’ll want to keep mainly SPS’s and probably an anemone or two.
Thank you all in advance, and I am glad I finally joined.
I have a DIY system I am trying to build a lighting system for and decided to go LED since I love the LED’s on my current system.
I am doing 20x20x16 Acrylic rimless reef tank and was wondering what would some of you choose for lighting it up? I want to keep the light about 6-8 inches above the water (which is 3/8-1/2 of an inch from the top)
I’ll want to keep mainly SPS’s and probably an anemone or two.
Thank you all in advance, and I am glad I finally joined.
Soundwave
New member
Goofy, the setup is going great. I screwed up somehow and killed my green monti cap that was growing so well. It totally bleached out and no other coral was affected. I'm so lost as to why that happened. I just reloaded my phosban and boom, the next day is showed signs of bleaching and today, dead. bummer.
My optics showed up today and I plan on starting the work tomorrow night.
I found a use for my new drill and I am going to completely re-do my rock work in the tank. I'm going with pillars and caves instead of my "fruit stand" style of setup where the rocks have been piled against the back glass for the past two and some change years. I will post pictures at some point but I will be a busy bee for the next week.
My optics showed up today and I plan on starting the work tomorrow night.
I found a use for my new drill and I am going to completely re-do my rock work in the tank. I'm going with pillars and caves instead of my "fruit stand" style of setup where the rocks have been piled against the back glass for the past two and some change years. I will post pictures at some point but I will be a busy bee for the next week.
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