DIY LEDs - The write-up

Status
Not open for further replies.
User, I used a small hobby iron from Weller. You don't want to use a super hot iron because there is very little distance between the solder point and the led internals. I let my little iron hear up completely and touched each solder pad on the star with the tip of the hot iron and a dab of solder. This leaves a small mound of solid solder on the star ready to accept a wire with some heat.

As far as shielding from water, the whole last page covered that. Use acrylic.
 
I bought my optics from LED supply. These are the ones I got:

http://ledsupply.com/10211.php

I bought my XRE-Q5 from Dealextreme, and to be honest, it doesn't take that long. It took 2 weeks to get to me, and I thought that was acceptable.

I'm using two fans on each heatsink, and it's a little warm to the touch. I'm not sure the exact temp, but I'm glad I have 2 on it. I want to keep the leds as cool as possible.


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15095768#post15095768 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by apt220
Thanks for the reply webrage. Would love to see your clean fixture on your tank.



Fernandokng, great job on your fixture as well. Where did you buy your optics and how did you know they are 40degrees?
Click to expand...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15097562#post15097562 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fernandokng
I bought my optics from LED supply. These are the ones I got:

http://ledsupply.com/10211.php

I bought my XRE-Q5 from Dealextreme, and to be honest, it doesn't take that long. It took 2 weeks to get to me, and I thought that was acceptable.

I'm using two fans on each heatsink, and it's a little warm to the touch. I'm not sure the exact temp, but I'm glad I have 2 on it. I want to keep the leds as cool as possible.
Click to expand...

Yeah I'm familiar with the website, but it doesn't say anywhere that they are 40 degrees. Or does "44 - FWHM Illumination Pattern" mean 44degress?
 
So it sounds like the 100 watt gun is out and I should pick up a small iron?


Thanks


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15097545#post15097545 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Soundwave
User, I used a small hobby iron from Weller. You don't want to use a super hot iron because there is very little distance between the solder point and the led internals. I let my little iron hear up completely and touched each solder pad on the star with the tip of the hot iron and a dab of solder. This leaves a small mound of solid solder on the star ready to accept a wire with some heat.

As far as shielding from water, the whole last page covered that. Use acrylic.
Click to expand...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15096319#post15096319 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kcress
Hi james3370.

For growing plants you want waaaaaaaaaaaaay more red than blue. So do what you need to to get there.
Click to expand...

not really looking to do it for that purpose.....just the red+blue LEDs combination to achieve a purple light effect most try to achieve w/ t5 bulb combinations

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15097539#post15097539 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dogstar74
James: I believe that red light has less energy and does not penetrate very deeply into the water, so most corals don't use any red light for growth. That's most likely different with Terrafirma plants that can absorb all kinds of spectrum. In fact, I remember reading somewhere that too much red light can have an adverse effect on the growth of a coral. (I know,"In God We Trust, all others must show data") So I don't believe red is a good idea. Also, I don't read anything in the reef lighting forum about people supplementing red. Only actinics. That should lead you to make an educated decision.
Click to expand...

yeah, most supplement w/ a actinic bulb or have a MH bulb that has some bit of a purple-ish hue to it, so i'm trying to figure out a combination of red+blues to achieve that hue
 
Last edited:
That was my assumption.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15097667#post15097667 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by apt220
Yeah I'm familiar with the website, but it doesn't say anywhere that they are 40 degrees. Or does "44 - FWHM Illumination Pattern" mean 44degress?
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for your help. I actually emailed them and they haven't gotten back yet. I'll post what they say.
 
Last edited:
FWHM stands for Full Width at Half Maximum. So in this case it means what is the angle that the beam spreads out where the cutoff point is when the intensity is half of the maximum. Very confusing so lets say that another way - if the maximum intensity is in the middle and half intensity is 22 degrees from the center then the FWHM for this light is 44. The reason the are so specific is technically there is still light that spills out beyond 44 degrees so they want to make sure you don't expect all of the light to be contained within a 44 degree cone. I still say it should just say 44 degrees and leave it at that.
 
James; Thought you were trying to grow 'green' in your sump. No problemo. If you are talking the display most of the time while different colors are fun they turn out to be a little too 'disco' and get annoying - in about 5 minutes. That's what also happens in normal lighting fixtures. People think, "a cool green lamp would be neat!" About an hour later they hate it. LOL

Soldering... It's a bit of an art form. It you're an expert you could probably solder the stars with anything but a torch. But if you aren't accomplished a 'just right' soldering iron is required. Something around 25 to 40watts. The biggest problem would be one too small as then you damage what you are soldering by sitting there with the heat on, waiting, and waiting for the solder temperature to be reached. Meanwhile the device is being roasted.

You need "rosin core solder." Make absolutely sure it's not 'ACID' core solder. Acid core is solder for soldering radiators and copper pipe. The acid remains and will dissolve your electronics in short order. No-core or plain solder is also very bad as there is no cleaning action which is vital to an acceptable solder joint.

You want lead solder too - NOT "lead free".

Let your iron heat up fully. Then wet it with your rosin core solder until it's blobbed up in a wad. This lets the rosin act on the tip to clean it. Wipe this blob off on a moist sponge,(not a sopping wet, just barely damp). If you have no sponge use a damp folded up paper towel.

Wipe with a very fast twirling dragging motion as you are trying to clear all the solder off the tip before you cool the tip to the point that the solder freezes again.

Apply a weee bit of solder to the tip and then immediately apply the tip to the star's pad. As soon as you apply the tip to the pad take your solder and touch it to the exact point where the tip meets the pad. You are trying to maximize heat transfer from the tip to the pad. You do this by filling all the voids with a molten metal thermal bridge. Pause for, perhaps, one or two seconds move the solder to a distant place on the pad and hold it there. When the pad heats up enough to melt the solder feed the solder in at a good clip until the pad has a large mound of solder on it.

Do the same thing to your wire if it is un-tinned. (actually do this before you do the pad!) Better(superior) would be to use only pre-tinned wire in the first place.

Now once you have your mound of solder on the star pad bring over your wire hold it on the Star's pad. Place the tip on top of the wire. You want to reheat the pad thru the wire. When the wire sinks into the blob hold the position and watch the blob. You want the entire blob to melt again. The instant the blob has remelted remove the tip while holding the wire EXACTLY where it is. No wiggling allowed! Coffee shakes need not apply..


There! One down a bazillion more to go. LOL
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15098279#post15098279 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by james3370
not really looking to do it for that purpose.....just the red+blue LEDs combination to achieve a purple light effect most try to achieve w/ t5 bulb combinations



yeah, most supplement w/ a actinic bulb or have a MH bulb that has some bit of a purple-ish hue to it, so i'm trying to figure out a combination of red+blues to achieve that hue
Click to expand...

I suppose if you want, "The tank formerly known as prince" color of purple that's the way to go. But if you just want that deep water blue coloration that makes the corals really flouresce and POP! Then I would suggest just getting the Royal blues, as they are very blue. And as said before, I'm useing a 3:1 ratio right now and it's very blue. I can uncover the other whites to achieve 1:1 white and blue if I want. Which is also a very pleasing light to look at, but my corals all shied away from the intensity.

Good luck with whatever you choose.
Aaron
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15099187#post15099187 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dogstar74
I suppose if you want, "The tank formerly known as prince" color of purple that's the way to go. But if you just want that deep water blue coloration that makes the corals really flouresce and POP! Then I would suggest just getting the Royal blues, as they are very blue. And as said before, I'm useing a 3:1 ratio right now and it's very blue. I can uncover the other whites to achieve 1:1 white and blue if I want. Which is also a very pleasing light to look at, but my corals all shied away from the intensity.

Good luck with whatever you choose.
Aaron
Click to expand...

maybe i'll do (3) blue + (1) white + (1) red per string to give it that hint of purple w/out too much. might even put a red & blue right next to each other so the red will be less "spot-lighty" & noticible (if that makes sense LOL)
 
Time for an update...

DSC05597-2.jpg
 
Oh yeah that baby is doing well..

Soundwave when you add more sticks and everything grows out your colors will pop more if you scrape all that coraline. Just my $0.02. Lookin' good though..
 
Thanks Kcress and Soundwave for the tips on soldering. Soundwave your tank looks great and the new lighting has revived your bonsai frag.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

E
Neptune DDR diy question for AWC
Replies
3
Views
364
Reefing102
Reefing102
AquaticReefTV
DIY Cable management time lapse
Replies
1
Views
669
S|\/|S
S
A
Aquarium Temperature Control: How I Hacked My Air Conditioner to control my tanks temperatures
Replies
6
Views
351
Naso180
N
ChadTheSpike
New?
Replies
6
Views
410
EchoVetEcho
E
Reefing102
My UPS - Do you have a UPS back up?
Replies
7
Views
469
Guygettnby
Guygettnby
Back
Top