DIY LEDs - The write-up

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evilc66 (who has become the savant on nanoreef) recommends 2-3" from side glass & 3-4" from the front & rear glass. from those points 2.5-3" spacing over the length of the tank & 3-4" spacing front to rear....however many that takes. a 50/50 mix seems to give the best options for colration....especially if the blues & whites are seperately dimmable as this gives you the ability to not only control the overall intensity of the lights but also the color.

if you can go 1000ma, that is also better....even though most are turning the intesity down, it gives you that much extra light if needed/wanted. another thing some are doing is adding a few UV leds in the mix (about 1 every 12" of length) to really make the corals POP....but be advised to NEVER look directly at them & that they will only run at 700ma, so you might have to plan your layout accordingly

uv led link - http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1690

optics for anything over 16-18" deep. 40 degree optics for the penetration of a 150mh & 60 degree for the penetration of a 250mh. if using the optics, you can move the side to side spacing of the LEDs out to 2.5-3" but anymore & it becomes spotlight effect (common complaint of the solaris unit)

buckpucks can run up to 6 leds & the meanwells up to 12-13. the forward voltage of the cree q5 is 3.7 @ 1000ma & 3.5 @ 700ma & 3.3 @ 350ma. there are 2 dimmable versions of the meanwell...eln-30 & eln-60. the 30 runs the leds at 350ma & the 60 runs them at 700ma. if you want to use the meanwells at 1000ma, you have to go w/ a different series that isn't dimmable (this will not only be probably too bright, but not allow you to color blend) so if you wanna rune the leds at 1000ma, the buckpucks are the best way

think that pretty much covers the basics all in one post LOL
 
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I don't think you will need near that many, I am doing 30 and 30 for my 75g. Also seeing the growth that Soundwave is getting with his shows me it's a good working setup, with good growth.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15289940#post15289940 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dtech
I don't think you will need near that many, I am doing 30 and 30 for my 75g. Also seeing the growth that Soundwave is getting with his shows me it's a good working setup, with good growth.

yeah, i personally think it's a bit much, but from what i've read it's more about the coverage than the intensity. the most common complaint about the solaris was the leds too far apart + the optics creating the spotlight effect. the tighter the optics, the closer the leds should be to prevent that

for mine, i'll probably go 3" spacing sided to side & 4" between rows.....but my tank will only be 12" deep, so i won't have optics.

i also plan to only them at 700ma, but colors seperately dimmable
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15288168#post15288168 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by der_wille_zur_macht
For supply power, you could certainly wire multiple mean well drivers (in parallel) to the same outlet. Of course, this assumes you aren't exceeding the specs of any of the components used - if you have a 15A outlet, you don't want to wire 20 or 30 drivers to it!



You are mixing up supply voltage with control voltage. All of the mean well drivers (at least the ones being used for these sorts of projects) must be wired to 120VAC (i.e. put a plug on the driver and plug it into a standard outlet in your house.) Some of the dimmable models are configured to dim based on a 1 - 10VDC signal, which is of course wired to the device separately from the supply power. Other mean well drivers are configured to dim based on a PWM signal, and of course others have no dimming.

Do you guys happen to know where I can find wires for an outlet plug? I don't want to just start cutting plugs off random stuff haha.
 
lowes sells "replacement cords"....basically a grounded 3-prong 6-9ft extension cord w/ the end cut off & bare wires & the wall plug on the other
 
Very nice mod. What paint did you use for the black color (I assume the paint is heat resistant)? Does it affect heat dissipation?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15282381#post15282381 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MerDoX
All I wanted was shimmering effects to supplement my NEP T5s.

I got that and more with 6 CREE XRE 3watt Royal Blue LEDs, 1A Luxdrive Buckpuck w/pot, 24V 0.85A power supply (home found). LEDs are screwed down with plastic washers, applied with thermo compound, and are 4" apart with no optics (although I thought I needed them). NEP and LEDs are 8" above and sandbed is 13" below water level. The fixture is 36" long, painted black to match NEP and also acts as heatsink. It's only slightly warm in the middle portion.
 
Hi Tong, I use 2 layers of regular black Kraylon spray paint and 2 layers of clear coats. It's 36" long and it seems enough to keep cool. The middle portion is only warm to touch and both ends are cool. I didn't measure the temp but will do soon.
 
I don't mean to drag up something that no one else probably cares about, but james, it looks like there's a problem with your math here:


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15287875#post15287875 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by james3370


dimmable buckpucks w/ the pot are $20/each, so 20*24=$480
then you need power....(12) 24v/12.5a power supplies @ $24.95/each = $300

If you are running 24 buckpucks at 1A each, that's 24A total. Even if you allowed some headroom and rounded it up 30 - 40% for a saftey margin, you'd only need three of those 12.5A supplies, not twelve.
 
Hey guys, I am not so sure that the "Non dimmable" version of the Meanwell drivers is actually not adjustable. If you read the spec sheet on the drivers it states that there are internal adjustments for current and voltage. I am running two of the "Dimmable" versions on my project and have alot of pics of the internals, and if the internals are the same.....
There are two adjustment pots inside the body of the supply.
I have alot of pics of the drivers and internals in my build thread if you have not checked it out yet.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1662682
Also, Electrical expert guys, I have asked for some feedback on my last post.....any help would be appreciated :)
 
sphil,

Similarly, you can get buckpucks with "internal" adjustments. However, in both cases, these adjustments are limited-use trim pots, intended for "set and forget" - i.e. you'd tweak it when you set the system up, then leave it as-is. Meanwhile, the external dimming capabilities on both units are designed for real controllability, i.e. adjusting the driver with some external control signal, or by hand every day, etc.

If you really want to buy a driver with a little extra headroom and tweak it to the point you like it when you set it up, then it should be fine to rely on those internal adjustments. However, they are not intended to be adjusted regularly as part of the unit's operation.
 
I'll get more growth pictures up later today when the lights come on. I think you'll all be pleasantly surprised.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15293159#post15293159 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Soundwave
I'll get more growth pictures up later today when the lights come on. I think you'll all be pleasantly surprised.

i am very excited to see this...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15289707#post15289707 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by anj1204
This is a sketch I threw together right quick. It is for a 75g mixed reef. Right now it doubles the amount of LED's that are on Soundwaves. But the more I look at it, the more I think it is to much. Your opinions and comments would be appreciated.
Thanks
Alan
221524led-med.jpg

I feel by looking at this, that there will be a lot of wasted light on the glass at the periphery.

Also, I would try to have more coverage in the middle section. The layout as it stands, would eliminate the Alien abduction light pattern and make a two space ship alien abduction light pattern. In other words, you'd have a large dead spot in the middle that would really accentuate the middle bracket.

Try three groups of 24 LEDs. Four lines front to back, and 6 LEDs width in each group. I hope that makes sense.

Cheers

Aaron
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15292147#post15292147 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by der_wille_zur_macht
I don't mean to drag up something that no one else probably cares about, but james, it looks like there's a problem with your math here:

If you are running 24 buckpucks at 1A each, that's 24A total. Even if you allowed some headroom and rounded it up 30 - 40% for a saftey margin, you'd only need three of those 12.5A supplies, not twelve.

yeah...it was late & i was answering questions on nanoreef at the same time LOL
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15293159#post15293159 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Soundwave
I'll get more growth pictures up later today when the lights come on. I think you'll all be pleasantly surprised.

With all these LED builds and commerical units there has to be someone else with some input besides soundwave and me..... we need more data... anyone????
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15289940#post15289940 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dtech
I don't think you will need near that many, I am doing 30 and 30 for my 75g. Also seeing the growth that Soundwave is getting with his shows me it's a good working setup, with good growth.

Will you be going with optics or without.
Thanks
Alan
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15293312#post15293312 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dogstar74
I feel by looking at this, that there will be a lot of wasted light on the glass at the periphery.

Also, I would try to have more coverage in the middle section. The layout as it stands, would eliminate the Alien abduction light pattern and make a two space ship alien abduction light pattern. In other words, you'd have a large dead spot in the middle that would really accentuate the middle bracket.

Try three groups of 24 LEDs. Four lines front to back, and 6 LEDs width in each group. I hope that makes sense.

Cheers

Aaron
Only problem with trying to get the middle section is the brace I have that goes across the middle which is about 8" or so. Best I can remember, I am sitting in the desert so I cant measure. Although it is made of glass, it freq gets hazed over by salt.
 
Well I'm a bit concerned that if you can't find a suitable solution to this dillema, then you'll end up with two columns of light and a very large dark spot in the middle. I know this is the case, because I only have a 10 gallon tank, and the edges of that are dark while the central portion is lit up. So I know the situation will be graver in your case. Just my .02.

Aaron
 
May be a good place to put 2 to 4 lights with optics at a slant facing the gap in question. Wider optics very well could put light in the area...

Wouldn't take many to do the trick and putting a wedge of wood, plastic, or metal to make the pitch should be simple enough.
 
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