DIY LEDs - The write-up

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I set up the LED over my pico for good this morning, it looks great. I am running it at about 25% to acclimate the inhabitants. I will have to wait until tomorrow to take photos of the tanks as things are a little agitated and not looking their best after messing around with the lights all morning. I will also take a few photos of the gear.

Jerome
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15002351#post15002351 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CJerome21
This is on the Start board - AKA PCB Mounted (printed circuit board mounted ).
When you call up you just have to tell ETG you want them mounted, it takes about a week.

Jerome
That's good, we can save 2 buck a piece vs. ledsupply.
 
melev, yes - but it was a test how leds works :-)

Now there are 8 leds, I'll put a new photos soon.

with 5 leds light was OK but I've put there SPS corals and for that I've decided to grow light a little...
 
DIY led's

DIY led's

I am starting my build and wanted to thank you for starting this thread. Also, I found a cheap way to get heatsinks....check out the local car stereo shops for blown amplifiers. I got a real nice red anodized aluminum heatsink for $5.00 with built in cooling fans. A question I have is why didn't anyone high polish the back of the heatsink prior to attaching the leds? Will this make the thermal compound adhere less or is this actually an original thought by me that will revolutionize the DIY led lighting world...LOL!
 
Great idea for picking up heat sinks!
In my reading on that nano aquarium web site, several people did polish their heatsinks prior to drilling. I did the same for mine. They used some polish and a drill attachment. I just used polish and some rags I had on hand. They said the cleaner surface should improve the thermal junction.

Jerome
 
I used 1000grit then 1500grit etc... sandpaper on my motorcycle frame to get it as smooth as possible then used the polish. People thought I had it chromed. I would think this would also help reflect some of the light bouncing off the water surface. I just wanted to see if there was a reason no one mentioned it yet. I am pretty proud of my brain fart re: the heatsink/blown amp method LOL!
 
Looks like I have some extra LEDs. It's a long story but I have 4 Q5 whites and 8 royal blues along with 2 more buckpucks. What would you do? Should I add them to my current setup or should I bank them for later or what?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15009390#post15009390 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by shayneh
I used 1000grit then 1500grit etc... sandpaper on my motorcycle frame to get it as smooth as possible then used the polish. People thought I had it chromed. I would think this would also help reflect some of the light bouncing off the water surface. I just wanted to see if there was a reason no one mentioned it yet. I am pretty proud of my brain fart re: the heatsink/blown amp method LOL!
Post some pictures when you get a chance. I am curious what the amp looks like and how you're going to strip it down to use for you lighting solution.

Thanks!

--Ed
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15009412#post15009412 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Soundwave
Looks like I have some extra LEDs. It's a long story but I have 4 Q5 whites and 8 royal blues along with 2 more buckpucks. What would you do? Should I add them to my current setup or should I bank them for later or what?
Do you need more light in your existing setup? If not, I would sell them and get your money out of them now. Otherwise you'll be sitting on hardware in 6+ months for that "next project" that is a generation behind. I see these lighting components being like computers - there's always something brighter, cheaper, more power efficient right around the corner.

--Ed
 
rED86 I might be awhile since I need to figure out how to mod my biocube hood and convince soundwave to send me the spare parts.....LOL! I will photograph the amp once I have the guts torn out... if you do some rooting around on the net there are actually amplifier companies that use American heatsinks as the manufacturer of their shells. It's actually how I came up with the idea........recalling the good ole days when I wanted to blow my eardrums and shake every bolt loose in my car.......
 
I have the photos of the finished set up ready but I will have to wait a few more days to snap some of the tank, the leather is still closed but most everyone else is looking good, I am running at about 30% power and will increase over the next week or so.


Used my label maker to make some nice labels.
CIMG1017.jpg


I used a 6 circuit molex connector to run from the power supply project box up to the fixture. I picked out the panel mount one because I thought I could cleanly mount it but that did not exactly work out because the wall of the box was too thick for how I think the mounting tabs work, any ideas?
CIMG1020.jpg


Looking up
CIMG1024.jpg


Looking down, I used this desk lamp I picked up at target as the hanger, I removed the lamp part and attached a piece of trim to match the fixture. I am using those little triangles in the corners to hold it now but I need to modify it a bit as I dont really feel comfortable with the lack of overlap. I think I am going to use some L aluminum once I have a chance o pick some up.
CIMG1028.jpg

Side View
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Looking down. Also note to connect the fan to the heat sink I did not want to use really long screws and drill into the heat sink because it would be a pain so I used some plastic hollow wall anchors I had around and stuck them into the space between the fins and then used screws just long enough to grip them, its works perfect and holds securely.
CIMG1045.jpg



The fixture is quite a bit heaver than the little lamp head that used to be on there so the stock springs could not support the LEDs, it would just drop to the desk under the weight. Obviously this is no good as it would fall in the tank! I thought about how to fix this issue and came up with a few stupid ideas before thinking about the mechanics of how the lamp works. I realized you just need to control the distance between the two pegs that the springs were attached too. I used some cable ties to test it and it worked but I don't trust them long term so I made some from the left over cable. The only disadvantage is that the height is semi fixed but I figure thats okay, I can always swing it to the side for maintenance for it will lean back several inches for feeding with out issue. One other issue dealing with the added weight is a need for increased counter weight. I imagine the included was a little light even for the lamp, so I picked up one brick to sit on top of it and spray pained black to match, still is not enough so I have the ream of paper on there for now until I can pick up another and paint.
CIMG1031.jpg


The whole deal. I am really happy with how this fixture turned out(thanks for the inspiration/information soundwave! I started reading this post on the day you first posted it and have read every reply since) and I feel ready to take on the larger one. The fan I am using to cool the project box is a little loud so I might order one that is 10mm larger or 20 if it will fit that will hopefully run a little quieter. The large fan on the heat sink is virtually silent, and I would recommend its purchase.
If you have any questions or ideas for improvements I am open to hear them!
CIMG1021.jpg
 
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Can you tell me what you use to clip the wire to the heatsink? I'm doing the same thing, but I have no idea what to use to connect the ends of the wire to the heatsink.

This will help me greatly!

Thanks.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15010068#post15010068 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CJerome21

CIMG1030.jpg

 
they are crimp connectors designed for using on metal wire loops....forget what they are called but the people at lowes or hd should know
 
I wanted mine to be more easily adjustable so I drilled the holes through the first two fins and then tapped them and the screw goes through the loop so I can remove easily. I used 1/16th inch wire cable.
I picked mine up, and would recommend stopping by your local Ace or TrueValue and go to the isle where they have the fasteners in all those little drawers you are looking for these things here
they will be in the same drawer as the wire thimbles.

Once you have them you just stick two ends of the wire in and crimp it. If you have a pair of vice grips look at the back of the jaw they have a nice thing you can use to crimp also worked very well to cut the thin cable.

Jerome
 
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