cdlscdls123
New member
Thank's Kasey, will try a new tread
DIY: Light Housing
- Thread starter kaserpick
- Start date
kaserpick
Keeping it Simple
Sounds good, I hope you find some good advice.
Here's some advice I found on Katchupoy's build:
That's his advice for a tank that is 60"l x 18"w x 24"t. It comes from his great build thread found here: DIY LED Build
In his build, his tank is a standard 75g (48"l x 18"w x 18"t); that being said, this should be a great thread for you to read. Even though your tank is a little wider and a foot taller, it's still some very good info. Sorry it took me so long to get back to you. I hope it helps!
Thanks bro!
Update:
Just received the acrylic for the shield!
Hopefully, I'll be starting to put that on tomorrow.
kaserpick
Keeping it Simple
Ok, so after having the new trimming knob for quite some time, I finally decided to de-solder the old one and solder the new one. The meanwell runs like it normally should now. Here are some pictures of the tank with finished rockwork, sand and lights on.
Whites @ 100%
Blues @ 100%
White and Blue @ 100%
Here are some pictures of the tank with finished rockwork, sand and lights on.Whites @ 100%
Blues @ 100%
White and Blue @ 100%
kaserpick
Keeping it Simple
Here's are a few more side DIY projects that happened/ are happening for the 16" Kube:
External Overflow Box:
Skimmer:
Tool of choice for precision cuts:
The cut:
The result:
This project is currently in mid-process. While the tank is running through it's bacterial establishment, I figured it was good time to build a skimmer.
External Overflow Box:
Skimmer:
Tool of choice for precision cuts:
The cut:
The result:
This project is currently in mid-process. While the tank is running through it's bacterial establishment, I figured it was good time to build a skimmer.
sahin
Ultimate Reefer
Hey Kasey, tanks looking good. Cant wait to see what you do with this DIY skimmer. Here are a couple of good articles on what makes a good skimmer;
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/1/aafeature2
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2010/1/aafeature
A few things in there might assist you. I came across the articles a few days ago whilst thinking about my own skimmer.
Good luck with the project and do take lots of photos.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/1/aafeature2
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2010/1/aafeature
A few things in there might assist you. I came across the articles a few days ago whilst thinking about my own skimmer.
Good luck with the project and do take lots of photos.
kaserpick
Keeping it Simple
Thanks for the articles, Sahin. I'm really impressed that they're actually using mathematics for their studies. Lots of great info!
Right now, I'm working on an idea that will encourage a longer exposure time, but I still have some obstacles to overcome. We'll see...
Thanks again!
Lots of great info!Right now, I'm working on an idea that will encourage a longer exposure time, but I still have some obstacles to overcome. We'll see...
Thanks again!
dainiusiva
New member
Good luck with the skimmer build.
I'll send you a link to a great thread detailing bk mini 180 replica build to your pm box.
Maybe it will give you some new ideas/ inspire you to copy it...
I'll send you a link to a great thread detailing bk mini 180 replica build to your pm box.
Maybe it will give you some new ideas/ inspire you to copy it...
sahin
Ultimate Reefer
Thanks for the articles, Sahin. I'm really impressed that they're actually using mathematics for their studies.
Right now, I'm working on an idea that will encourage a longer exposure time, but I still have some obstacles to overcome. We'll see...
Thanks again!
From my own experiance of messing around with skimmers over the years I feel that reaction time and the total skimmer volume are top of the list.
If you look at the Schuran Jetskim line of skimmers, you will see that they increase reactions time/contact time by having an internal cylinder inside the skimmer body, to sort of make a triple pass (I think thats what they call it). A similar effect is created by having a recirculating pump on the side.
Flow rate aside, I feel that what makes my Bubble Magus NAC6 skimmer perform well is the large body size. There is a lot of space within for hte water and bubbles to interact vigorously many times over.
Anyway, enough of my rant, will be following this closely to see how the performance works out.
kaserpick
Keeping it Simple
Thanks for the link! That's a great thread; they do such an amazing job with it. Thanks again!
I agree with you 100% about the reaction time and total volume. I'm stuck with the chamber that I have...at least for now. With an ID of 3.75" and a height of 11", the skimmer body will hold just over 1/2 gallon. Hopefully, that'll be sufficient. We shall see.
dainiusiva
New member
You are welcome Kasey. It was a logical thing to do, as you are a very talented man, and this could give you some ideas / information useful for your build.
kaserpick
Keeping it Simple
kaserpick
Keeping it Simple
I do have a splash shield, but I don't have pics of it, yet. I ended up using flat aluminum stock and cut it into 4 strips (~1/2"x 1"). I then bent them at the appropriate angle to match the sides of the housing. I used JB Weld to mount them inside the housing, just slightly above the bottom lip (a little less than 1/8"). I should say that before I mounted them I drilled them for my metal screws.
After all of this was done, I cut the acrylic (thickness was a little less than 1/8") to the correct size, marked it to match the holes in the four strips, and mounted it with stainless steel screws.
I hope that makes sense. I'll have to try to get some pics soon. :thumbsup: Thanks for the compliment.
I do have a splash shield, but I don't have pics of it, yet. I ended up using flat aluminum stock and cut it into 4 strips (~1/2"x 1"). I then bent them at the appropriate angle to match the sides of the housing. I used JB Weld to mount them inside the housing, just slightly above the bottom lip (a little less than 1/8"). I should say that before I mounted them I drilled them for my metal screws.
After all of this was done, I cut the acrylic (thickness was a little less than 1/8") to the correct size, marked it to match the holes in the four strips, and mounted it with stainless steel screws.
I hope that makes sense. I'll have to try to get some pics soon. :thumbsup: Thanks for the compliment.
That does make sense thanks. I have never used JB Weld so I didn't think it would be strong enough for that type of application. I will be using a full sized heatsink so I am still trying to figure out how to mount everything inside without a bunch of screw heads being visible on the outside.
kaserpick
Keeping it Simple
Well as far as construction goes, I used 90's (cut aluminum angle) and JB Weld to attach the end caps of the housing. Once that cured (after a day), I then went back over the seams with the JB Weld; I globbed it on pretty thick. After that cured, I took sand paper and sanded it down to make the housing look like one piece. Once it was painted, it looked like the housing was molded that way. I'm very pleased.
Now, let's move on to your problem with mounting the heatsink with screws showing. If you're hanging the fixture, like me, then you already have 4 holes that have to be drilled in the housing. I used those bolts (for the hanging kit), that already are used to mount the hanging kit to the light, to mount a metal frame inside the housing. Again, I used 11" lengths of aluminum angle. Now you have a frame that you can mount your heatsink to; even if I would have used a normal heatsink, you still wouldn't have seen screws outside of the fixture. The only screws you'll have in-sight are the screws to mount the fans. Here's a picture of the metal frame inside of the housing.
Note that the four screws/bolts are the same ones used to mount the hanging kit on top of the fixture. I hope that helps! :thumbsup:
