DIY MaxiJet Stream (Pic Intense)

asnatlas said:
I have a TS24 stream kit and when I first got them and was looking, I was wondering why the top part didnïÃ"šÃ‚¿Ã"šÃ‚½t have any slits in it, now I know :)

Thanks for the info...
Shawn

Just for referense, how wide would you say the area is with no holes? Thanks for the info guys.

Wayne
 
BullDZR said:
Just for referense, how wide would you say the area is with no holes? Thanks for the info guys.

Wayne

I am at work right now and I just going off memory... I would say its like 1/5 to 1/4 of the over all size... I can try to get a pic once I get home...

Shawn
 
This is a great thread! Just a word of caution.... I have seen other threads in the DIY section shut down by Mods and in a few cases deleted due to comparisons to very specific makes and models. I would suggest being vague when making comparisions by maybe describing w/o mentioning brand names. I'm not the patent police, nor do I speak for them - but I would like to see them stay at bay as the DIY inovation continues.

build-on
 
headshrink, I concur. Better to be safe than sorry. Just to be safe, I'm caching the thread on my machine, and going to print it out to be safe.
 
ok, one thing occured to me as I was reading this post, as with boat props, the use of 2-3-4 blades, have different performance characteristics I was just wondering if the possiblity of running different blade counts, into account of possibly raising the amount of flow generated,
this is a great MOD, I will try this when I get a chance myself, bing a tinkerer myself, I am always looking at diffrent ways of doing something,
keep up the great work
 
this is an awesome diy! you realy had to think about this one to get it as far as you have. you might want to think about getting a plastics molding company to make these parts for you. then sell the plastic molded parts to convert these pumps over. it might be a saleable item.
 
jgm_1970 said:
ok, one thing occured to me as I was reading this post, as with boat props, the use of 2-3-4 blades, have different performance characteristics I was just wondering if the possiblity of running different blade counts, into account of possibly raising the amount of flow generated,

I was wondering the same thing. At some point the available power from the pump will not be enough to run the prop, and may overheat, or cause premature failure of the pump motor?

Also, check your local welding shop, they may have SS 3/32 welding rod.
 
About the different blade counts.... I would only recommend trying this if you REALLY want to invest time and some $$$$. The reason is this - I tried the whole mod thing with my RC boat several years back and burnt up a lot of motors and gears (litterally burnt up). Also burnt through a bulkhead. I found that unless you knew what you were doing this was easy to do. With that being said, if this mod works with the prop being used you may not want to try anything drastically different unless you REALLY want to tinker and possibly replace the PH.

In my boat I was using higher powered motors than it was designed for and then added berring kits etc. What I found is I actually needed a prop with a bigger pitch (i was still using stock) because I was running the motors too fast - they were designed to be run with a bigger "load." But for this project my hunch would be the oppisite. PHs turn little impelers and we are not changing the "horsepower" of the PH motor - so to add too much prop would, I think, add a lot of stress and burn it out prematurily. At least this is what I THINK would happen - I haven't tried it.
 
ncsugrad04 said:
Wayne, which particular hobby shop was it that you purchased the propellers from? They might have one around here? (Durham) Thanks

Dan

The hobby shop I was at was Hobbytown USA in Winston.

Wayne
 
headshrink said:
About the different blade counts.... I would only recommend trying this if you REALLY want to invest time and some $$$$. The reason is this - I tried the whole mod thing with my RC boat several years back and burnt up a lot of motors and gears (litterally burnt up). Also burnt through a bulkhead. I found that unless you knew what you were doing this was easy to do. With that being said, if this mod works with the prop being used you may not want to try anything drastically different unless you REALLY want to tinker and possibly replace the PH.

In my boat I was using higher powered motors than it was designed for and then added berring kits etc. What I found is I actually needed a prop with a bigger pitch (i was still using stock) because I was running the motors too fast - they were designed to be run with a bigger "load." But for this project my hunch would be the oppisite. PHs turn little impelers and we are not changing the "horsepower" of the PH motor - so to add too much prop would, I think, add a lot of stress and burn it out prematurily. At least this is what I THINK would happen - I haven't tried it.

I wondereed about that in the beginning wich is why I chose this blade. I was going to test it with some different props but since you have already seen the affects of that, I think i will learn from that and not change anything as of yet. I may still use a larger prop on a 1200 though. I am also thinking of making a few other changes on the 1200, since is should spin faster, and it is for larger tanks. I will see what I come up with and post it once I finish making it. Already have the wheels spinning on that one. I also wanted to let everyone know I made one slight change to this mod. I have changed to a different PVC pipe. It is a 1 1/4 " coupler. It is smooth on the inside and the outside (no ridges on the outside, and no threads on the inside as compared to the currentl PVC). It is also about 1/2 " longer which may allow for more holes.I will post pics of one of those once I complete one of these.

Thanks everyone for the coments and questions. Have a great day and God bless.

Wayne
 
First off this is an awesome mod. I had seen some from the previous thread, but you have a great product.

How does the intake on these babies compare to the regular intakes on the MJ's? Is it as prone to having snails/nudi getting suction stuck on the inlet? Is there enough surface area that the water inlet suction is less than standard MJ's or because there's more flow is it worse?

Would an unsuspecting snail be able to avoid certain death if it crawls on the coupler?
 
wildcats said:
You mentioned putting together a parts list, are you still planing to do this?

Great work

Are you wanting part numbers for everythig? I can probably do that. Will take me alittle time to get that all together, I will try to have that up tomorrow evening.

Wayne
 
bigreddastud said:
First off this is an awesome mod. I had seen some from the previous thread, but you have a great product.

How does the intake on these babies compare to the regular intakes on the MJ's? Is it as prone to having snails/nudi getting suction stuck on the inlet? Is there enough surface area that the water inlet suction is less than standard MJ's or because there's more flow is it worse?

Would an unsuspecting snail be able to avoid certain death if it crawls on the coupler?

There is no intake anylonger due to the mod. You take that whole piece off and add the mod. I have not had any snail venture into mine and i have close to 50 astreas in my 30G I have had a few crawl onto the PVC attacment to clrean it, but they go to the end and turn around. That being said, the holes on the PVC are still suction holes so I would have to say it is still possible for them to get caught, I just have not seen it yet.

Hope this helps.

Wayne
 
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