phosban reactor out of pvc eh?
find a section of 3" pvc
two 3" end caps
a stick of 1/2" pvc that is longer than the 3" section by a couple of inches
a 1/2" encap
a 1/2" hosebarb
this reactor leaks like a banshee...so it is meant to be totally in sump...
oh, and it is not transparent...obviously!
glue one end of the 3" cap to the however long you have the 3" section. make sure that it will fit in your sump easily...
find a drill size that is exactly the same as the 1/2" pvc. drill a hole in the center of the other 3" endcap
next - drill smaller 'drain' holes around the large main hole of the 3" cap...
drill a 1/8" hole or smaller in the center of the 1/2" endcap
drill smaller holes around about 1/5th on the end of the 1/2" pvc
slip the 1/2" pvc through the center of the 3" end cap
slip the 1/2" endcap onto the 1/2" pvc
put the end cap end of the 1/2" pvc to the 'bottom' of the 3" pvc (the end that is glues)
fill it with whatever media you want. make sure the 1/2" pvc cap stays touching the bottom of the cap. pre-rinsing the media is easier with this reactor.
do not fill to the top...fill only 4/5th full MAX. get some good old batting (y'know used from the freshwater days) and stuff it onto the top fairly full as this stuff shrinks when it gets wet. put the 3" cap on - do not glue it! you want it removable.
put the 1/2" barb on the other end of the 1/2" pvc.
stick a mj 600, 900 1200 whatever...it is a 1/2" output. i use a plastic clamp to secure the hose to the mj output.
plug it in
water will come shooting out of the drain holes you created at the top of the unglued 3" pvc cap.
voila!
a diy fluidized reactor that should cost $5 and be wahtever size your sump can handle. it is designed to leak so you have to position it in your sump to handle the out put and the leaks form the unglued joints.
all plumbing parts:
www.marinedepot.com