DIY- "Pins" method of gluing acrylic.

Not that cast is more difficult to use but that more care has to be taken in edge prep IMO. Cast doesn't dissolve as easily as extruded so a sawcut edge will look like a sawcut edge when glued. However, a well prepped edge is strong & will look great :)

Given the size of the tank you are making, I think you'll be fine with just the strips.

HTH,
James
 
AFAIK, Marc still uses Acrylite FF which IMO is the best of all the extruded acrylics. For many reasons but primarily the surface quality, it just isn't pitted like many of the other extruded materials.

HTH,
James
 
Someone asked where to get scrap acrylic. I used to have good luck at sign companies, before I started buying it sheets at a time. They have a lot of scrap after cutting out letters.

Side note, I used some WO#3 for some little donation boxes, and that stuff is a pain to work with. To me it was MUCH thinner than WO4. Even with the tiny applicator needle and drawing in a vacuum on the bottle (Sorry I cant describe this better, but acrylic guys will know what I am talking about), it still would dribble out.
It sets up RIGHT NOW, and I can see how it would make very weak joints for a tank. Awesome for POP display production, though, I'm sure. Ok, rant over:)
 
Ive noticed some people use a syringe with a tip. ( vet syringe type) . does this help speed up the glue applying process, when your doin say all four sides onto the bottom piece. That would be a lot of joints to fill with weldon before it start to dry on you, right? I( got the bottle needle aplicator from tap plastis. It is the smallest needle tip they had. now i wonder if it is to small for weldon 4.
 
I use the same bottle all the time. I buy them like 6 at a time.

needle_applicator.jpg


If they clog, hold a flame (match, lighter, candle, propane torch) under the needle to unclog it. It will make a tiny *pop* noise, and you can do this about 6 or 8 times before the needle is ruined.

I've used #3 and #4 with these and never had a problem. I almost only use #4 at this point. Doing all four sides of a sump at once isn't a big deal. I do the long side first, then each end. I pull out the pins on the long side, then a couple from the ends. Finally I glue the other long side, and then pull out all the rest of the pins on that side as well as the ends.

Same system for the top flange.

And James has it right: AcryLite FF. I prefer the blue film over paper, as it is easier to get off.
 
highquality
I cant use the syringes, they're not "smooth" enough for me. When the solvent gets on the rubber plunger tip, it kind of "drags". I'm using good syringes,too. I just dont like the feel. I like the control of the bottle, as you can squeeze for more volume or release pressure to slow the flow.
I almost always use the yellow based needle applicator, I think 20 gauge. IIRC, the blue tip is 24g ??? You can really get around with the yellow needle. the blue is simply too slow for me on larger sumps, etc. But I must not be as strong as crazy Marc to squeeze the blue needled bottle so hard:lol:

Marc, what do you think of WO3? This was my first time with using it.
 
I have the blue needle applicatoras well. thanks for the tip on glueing the bottom on. WO3 was a little messy for me also. I have WO4 now .
 
I used to use Weld-On #3 but the cure time is too quick. You have about 15 seconds to react, where #4 gives you 45 seconds or so.
 
do you ever have acrylic that is concave in a area or that you need to straighten out before glueing? straight edge and a clamp ?
 
Sometimes I do need to make a sheet straight. This comes from sitting in a hot garage. It is best to store it standing up rather than lying flat, as it may bend to a new shape over time.
 
I got these pins that say 12/ ( some other number) and some that are 17/ ( some other number) Im wondering what is too small? does the needle applicator tip actuallt slide inbetween the joint or does it slide at edge of joint and glue is pulled in to joint by suction or cpilarry or whatever you call it?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8320033#post8320033 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by highquality
I got these pins that say 12/ ( some other number) and some that are 17/ ( some other number) Im wondering what is too small? does the needle applicator tip actuallt slide inbetween the joint

No, if the applicator needle will fit in between the two pieces then the "pins" are far too big.

or does it slide at edge of joint and glue is pulled in to joint by suction or cpilarry or whatever you call it?

Yep, they call it capillary action, I call it surface tension, same thing :)

I don't know about the pin question since I don't use them, mayhaps others will know better.

HTH,
James
 
Maybe this will clarify things for me. Are the acupuncture needles tips thinner than the size of the blue needle aplicators thickness?
 
Im going to start in the garage. it might get cold tonight. somewhat anyway. How will the temperature affect the weldon process? The door will be closed. thanks
 
Yes, much thinner.

You want to run the bottle at a 45 degree angle against the seam. The solvent will 'wick' into the joint, and should look completely wet without air bubbles or pockets. When you pull the pins, the upright piece will drop ever so slightly into the solvent and force out some glue and any air bubbles. If you use shims, don't shim too hard, but rather just apply enough pressure to evenly press the two pieces together from below.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8329072#post8329072 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by highquality
anything wrong with copper wire. i have some thin wire strands. perfect size
I wouldn't think so, it's really just the size (small guage) that you need to just slightly seperate the 2 edges of the acrylic.
 
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