DIY- "Pins" method of gluing acrylic.

I have some overhanging joint that are 1/8 inch or so. when I flush cut them with router do I need to worry that I am routing to much at once. did I leave too much? I have not tried flush cutting it yet so thought I would check on this,.
 
I used to use copper wires, and have never seen them oxidize. Not to say it cant happen- James has a good point. I still use them in a pinch, but have switched to the Twist tie wires simply for strength.
I have a sump with a tiny piece of copper wire imbedded in the joint. I let it set up too long and it was the last pin, which broke when I pulled hard on it. Its completely sealed in there, so no corrosion issues, and it did not affect the joint, as its melted in there. But, it does show the biggest downside to copper, IMO; its lack of strength. Stick with the steel or SS wire.
 
Is it ok to use a 1/4 flush cut bit to route the teeth in overflow? Im doing it calfo style so i dont want to make a mistake like using wrong bit. bit has two blades on it not three
 
sorry, its a 3/8 bit, not 1/4 . is bit two big? Should i use a straight cut bit instead? I have 1/4 collet on this bit as well
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8330349#post8330349 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by highquality
I know Acrylic recomended .007 steel wire but cant find steel in that size.
I used Electric guitar strings,they are .008" for the High E string ... close enough and I got a good bond when pulled. Any music store will have them and one string will go a long way for about $1.50
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8365876#post8365876 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by highquality
sorry, its a 3/8 bit, not 1/4 . is bit two big? Should i use a straight cut bit instead? I have 1/4 collet on this bit as well

1/4" is better for teeth in a display tank. I used 3/8" for the refugium baffle as there isn't anything that needs to be kept in that zone, animal-wise.
 
Too late....lol What is the shortest time you all have waited to fill up a tank or sump after glueing? Im in a hurry to get it setup! I have orders coming in.
 
Minimum 12 hours. I prefer 24 hours, but then again I'm referring to a sump rather than a display tank. James would have the best answer for your question.
 
Personally, I'd wait as long as possible. *In general* solvent bonded joints reach 90% strength in about 24hrs, 95% strength in about 72hrs, and full strength in 7-14 days. I know you're not gonna wait that long though :)
Give it 24hrs and then have a go at it. But, if you can still smell the solvent in 24hrs, give it another 24 - hope this make sense.

FWIW, I wait at least a week before I ship anything.

James
 
So if I wait three days i should be good for sure ? I can go ahead as well and put some WO #16 in a few joints that look a little weak. It wont affect the WO #4 drying after 24 hours?
 
You should be fine after 3 days. From a theoretical POV, you *should* wait on adding anything to the joint as adding stuff *may* inhibit/delay the joint from coming to full strength. However in the real world, I *personally* wouldn't hesitate to add 40 after 24hrs but if you have 16, there ya go.
Trying to walk a fine line between what ought to be recommended in a perfect world and what is realistic...not always easy if ya know what I mean :)

HTH,
James
 
highquality - you forgot one thing.

needpics.gif
 
I knew that was coming , here a partial shot of the tank on end while the exterior overflow box was being glued on. i post some final shot later on.
DSC_1884.jpg
 
Ok , I have a leak! I originally ran a bead of wo 16 around all inside corners. I used a small tip and made the bead of 16 real tiny . there is some bubbles at the leak . should I put a acrylic block in there or just run some more wo 16, but this time put a little more on? Is this pretty normal for you guys ever?
 
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