DIY- "Pins" method of gluing acrylic.

[Abnormal]

We dont get Weld on solvents in South Africa.

Has anyone used Tensol to build a display tank?

The plastic suppliers suggest using tensol 7 which is a 2 part cement and cutting the perspex sheet at a 3 degree angle. They also advised against using tensol 12 saying the bonds are not going to be strong enough.

But its not going to be fluid enough to use the pins method. It also seems like its going to be difficult to put together since it will need clamping etc.


Does anyone know if one of the other tensol products will work.

What if i just used chloroform to bond the pieces would that be strong enough?

EDGE BONDING
Solvent welding is the quickest and easiest way of forming edge
bonds. The best results can be easily and safely achieven when
ETRU-FIX/TENSOL 12 are applied achieved using the appropriate
EVO-PLAS application kit. Features of this system - which is
intended for indoor applications - include good resistance to stress
crazing, even on line-bent sections, and high clarity, bubble-free
bonds. Filled systems such as TENSOL 12 offer slightly better gap
filling properties.
For external applications, a highly durable adhesive such as
TENSOL 70 is required

 

[Fornowagain]

Can't seem to find Weld-on #4 in the UK either.

 

[bigffish]

fro what its worth I am a fishing guy, so ihave some mono around; six# test I have is.008 in dia. so... it worked ok

 

[Reefrookey]

All
I have a chance to purchase a 300 gal tank that has a split seam on one of the end panels. Its is the vertical seam near the top were the side joins the front viewing panel. The side panel butts up to the front viewing panel. I am not sure how far down the split extends.
I was wondering what you thought about injecting this seam to repair. Is it plausible? I have worked w/ acrylics enough to feel comfortable with building varius projects as well as the sump under my sixty cube 22.75 by 22.75 by 16 tall. I also have all the wood working tools (proffesional grade) i would need to cut down and reutilize the acrylic for a smaller size tank. the dimensions for the tank are 96"x24"x30". Thanks in advance

Adam

 

[kgross]

If the acrylic is good. The worst thing you would have to do is glue in a gusset in that corner from the top to the bottom.

But the big question is, if it was a bad glue job, will the other seems break as well.

Kim

 

[dbartkow]

Wow! It took me 5 days, but I finally finished this thread. Thank you everyone for contributing to it. There is so much valuable information here.

It sounds like everyone is using all the Weld-On products. I was wondering if anyone knows how this compares?

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pr...e=usplastic&category_name=71&product_id=19275

Has anyone ever used this product before on acrylic?

I am preparing to do a 48" x 36" x 12" propagation tank.

Thanks,
Dave

 

[Acrylics]

Personally, I wouldn't use it for acrylic at all even though the listing says for acrylic as well. It contains tetahydrafuran (THF) which works fine for polycarb but tends to craze acrylic IME.

HTH,
James

 

[dbartkow]

Thanks, James. This thread goes back many years, and I know some things can change as we learn/experience more. So I was wondering what everyone is currently using to work with acrylic?

- Weld-On 3 or 4?

- What are you using for pins now?

- How long do you let the glue set before pulling the pins?

- Do you prefer to use a router table or jointer to get a clean edge?

I would love to hear responses from anyone that is working with acrylic.

Thanks,
Dave

 

[Acrylics]

I still make my own but know this isn't possible for most, so I'd recommend 4 over the 3, a little more time is nice.

I'm still using the same wires I've been using for decades

Soak time varies, 15 seconds to 1 minute depending on application and whether or not someone else is helping

Router table is much better but JMO

I can't speak for others, just what I use mostly

HTH,
James

 

[Sokretys]

anyone here try acupuncture pins?

 

[melev]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14236299#post14236299 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dbartkow
Thanks, James. This thread goes back many years, and I know some things can change as we learn/experience more. So I was wondering what everyone is currently using to work with acrylic?

- Weld-On 3 or 4?

- What are you using for pins now?

- How long do you let the glue set before pulling the pins?

- Do you prefer to use a router table or jointer to get a clean edge?

I would love to hear responses from anyone that is working with acrylic.

Thanks,
Dave

I used #4 for years but have recently switched to #3, and really love the better looking seams.

Accupuncture needles.

15 seconds.

I haven't had the opportunity to use a router table yet, so I'm still using a jointer.

 

[dbartkow]

I have been experimenting and seem to be getting pretty good at this. However, I have only been making 16" x 8" x 3" tanks... really nothing usable but just to get practice. Now I think I am ready to go up to my 48" x 36" x 12" propagation tank and I am questioning if it will be any different.

For the small trial tanks, I glued all the side pieces together, one at a time. Then I glued the bottom piece on to those by glueing all the edges at the same time. Is this how you do it for the larger size tanks too? I am just wondering if the glue will set to quickly by the time a get all the way around the bottom. I welcome any thoughts or insight into how you have done this.

Thanks,
Dave

 

[melev]

I usually work the long side first, then the opposite long side, then the ends. Based on how long it took to wick the glue in the joint, I pull the pins as necessary.

Shimming up and some extra glue here and there is usually necessary.

 

[Sokretys]

Melev. Im using #4 right now. 34 gauge acupuncture needles. how long would you recommend having them in place before pulling them?

Also..what are the major differences between 3 and 4?

 

[melev]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14321611#post14321611 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sokretys
Melev. Im using #4 right now. 34 gauge acupuncture needles. how long would you recommend having them in place before pulling them?

Also..what are the major differences between 3 and 4?

Question 1: 60 seconds

Question 2: 40 seconds :lol: You have to pull them quicker if you use #3, because the solvent works fast. 15-20 seconds and I start pulling pins.

 

[Sokretys]

haha thanks. where can i buy the right sryinge? ive got a 5ml elos syringe with a tip from my cats plastic nail applicator hahaa. baarely works.

is the time to pull the pins going to be different depending on the thickness of the acrylic? i pretty much use 1/4" for everything. ie no tanks. just sumps etc

 

[melev]

Check USplastics.com for applicator bottles. Or http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/category.php?bid=21&

The other question I'll leave for James. I tend to think solvent determines wait time, but perhaps the thicker material may change it somewhat.

 

[Acrylics]

On overage, the wait time for thicker material is 30-45 seconds but depends on the material, temperature, and the solvent you're using. Placing solvent on a 25 foot long glue joint of 1" takes time so pull the wires as soon as the solvent is in place, sometimes as Melev said below. I usually have help for these joints so the solvent doesn't set prior to pulling wires.

by melev
I usually work the long side first, then the opposite long side, then the ends. Based on how long it took to wick the glue in the joint, I pull the pins as necessary.

Shimming up ... is usually necessary.

For 1/4", I don't wait much at all, apply solvent, pull pins. 'Course the size of the wires also plays a part in this. Using 1/4", thicker wires require more solvent so you have a choice of either; pull quick for a cleaner joint but more runs, or let it soak so less runs but you get more ooze. This is one reason why I use thinner wires on thinner material

HTH,
James

 

[dbartkow]

So if I understand this right, when you are gluing the bottom piece to the sides, you may pull the pins on one side before you apply the solvent to the other side... depending on timing. Is that right?

Dave

 

[Acrylics]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14322742#post14322742 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dbartkow
So if I understand this right, when you are gluing the bottom piece to the sides, you may pull the pins on one side before you apply the solvent to the other side... depending on timing. Is that right?

Sometimes it has to be done this way, as you say - due to the timing. One would prefer not to, but sometimes it has to be done.
Just make sure you don't pull the wires "ahead" of the solvent. Hope this makes sense

James