DIY- "Pins" method of gluing acrylic.

Quick question for all you acrylic pros: I got my 1/2" from a plastic shop and they did nice smooth even cuts. Do I still need to use the router on it? If so, Which bit? I have 3/8" and 1/2" Flush cut and spiral up cut...

Thanks for the input, getting set to do a 48x36x18....

RandalB
 
Bubbles still creeping in

Bubbles still creeping in

I finally got around to adding the acetic acid to some WO #4 (5%) and tried a joint. At first it appeared to work great but after a little time, the same bubbles are creeping in on the sides as before. The centers of the joints are perfect but I am still getting small bubbles creeping in on the edges. Any suggestions? Temps are now a bit cooler, 70 degrees or so.

Should I use more or less glue, shorter or longer soak times, pressure on the joints???

Thanks,

Dave
 
Dave,
Check the router bits, are they re-sharpened? Check to make certain they are straight. Many times, whoever re-sharpens them does so on a worn wheel which can make the cutters slightly rounded. I had this very problem some yrs ago and it mystified me until I actually check the cutters thoroughly.

Are you still gluing Chemcast?

I'm outta thoughts other than that at the moment.

James
 
Thanks for the reply James.

Yes, still Chemcast. The router bit was new when I started this acrylic work. I have done a small tank (15 Gallons), a sump (20x20x16) and this tank (21x21x21) with it, that's it. It has not been resharpened.

Could I be using too much WO4? I have been worried it is drying out too fast. Maybe I am using too much and that is allowing things to get sucked back into the joint. I'm not sure what else to try here. The next two joints will be the front of the tank and the worst to mess up so I am hesitant to go there until I can get some respectable trial joints.

Thanks again,

Dave
 
I know you are in the middle of the tank, but I would at least try a different material, not on this tank at this point of course - just some practice pieces. A controlled experiment if you will. At least then you would know something.
I sincerely doubt using too much solvent would cause the problems you are looking at.

James
 
Well, I finally broke down my 4x8 sheet of Plexiglas G and built my first sump. I have built other acrylic projects before (a couple of decent sized protein skimmers mainly and a few other small jobs), but this was the first major project I did that used the pins method before. A few observations:

1) The first joints were definitely the best. This was when I was attaching the ends and dividers to the front, one by one. Each of these came out pretty much perfect! No bubbles at all. I am VERY pleased with each of these joints. I used a pair of 12" plastic speed squares to align the dividers. I used carpet tape to attach the speed squares to the right spot to hold each divider in the perfect alignment as the solvent did it's work. That worked out VERY well and really took a lot of concern out of the gluing process.

2) When I attached the second side, I obviously had to glue all the dividers at once. These joints were ALMOST as good as the individual joints, but a few of the joints on my bubble trap ended up getting messed up slightly because I had to shift them around slightly after the solvent had been added. I originally had them in the right place, but they shifted on my slightly. I did not account for just how flexible a flat sheet of acrylic is (the front in this case), so they were able to move more than I thought they would. The movement caused some bubbles in the center bubble trap divider, but the joint is water tight and very secure. Just not perfect.

3) Attaching the bottom was a bit scary. It was being glued to both sides, both ends, two of the three bubble trap dividers and to one additional divider. All at the same time. There were a couple of areas were I had some bubbles in the joint one area were I thought I needed to go ahead and put a bead of #16 down later to make SURE that no water could work it's way around a close spaced series of bubbles and cause a very slow leak.

4) When I attached the top, I FINALLY figured out what I had done wrong on the bottom: I had the pins spaced too far apart. This allowed the acrylic to push together ever so slightly and prevented sufficient solvent from getting into the joint. Of course, I figured this out when I was about half way through applying solvent to the joint, so I couldn't stop and add more pins! Needless to say, I ended up with a couple of places with some bubbles in the acrylic. The top is on VERY securely and I really don't think I will have any leaks, even if I DID run the water level all the way to the very top! But it doesn't loop perfect all the way around, so it irritates me. At least 95% of the joint IS perfectly clear with no bubbles, so I can take some solace in that! ;)

5) I used a 1/8" solid carbide spiral up-cut bit to remove the bulk of the waste from the opening in the top before I went back with pattern bit and trimmed the top to perfection. Using the 1/8" bit to remove most of the waste increased the size of the waste piece by over 1" in each direction AND it helped keep the amount of acrylic "flakes" (aka: dust) down in my shop because I did not machine away nearly as much acrylic as I would have.

All in all, I am willing to call this pretty much a 100% success. I'll never be COMPLETELY happy until each and every joint is absolutely perfect, but 99% of the people that look at it now will never see the bubbles. Until I point them out!

Thanks for all the great ideas and suggestions in this thread and some of the other acrylic threads. I KNOW I would not have done nearly as good a job with out that advise.

Oh, on last thing. I have seen some comments on reusing the acupuncture needles. In my case, I have already reused these pins several times. After I use them, I let the acrylic on them set up completely and then pinch the needle between the nail on my thumb and fore finger and then pull the needle through my nails. It quickly and cleanly strips off any remaining acrylic and other waste and leaves the needle ready for the next use. I stuff them back into their plastic tubes and store them later.
 
Oh! I also left out one of the most important things I learned! The solid carbide spiral up-cut/down-cut bits do a VERY good job of sizing the acrylic to final size and the joint is very close to perfect. Because the spiral bits are continuously cutting (instead of chopping very quickly) they produce a much smoother, more consistent finished surface than a regular straight bladed router bit can produce. They are more expensive, but they are definitely worth the cost!
 
I just broke a part ( the lip that hangs on the tank) of my overflow. How can I fix it, what's the best way and can I use a different material to fix it with?

rev
 
I just broke a part ( the lip that hangs on the tank) of my overflow. How can I fix it, what's the best way and can I use a different material to fix it with?

rev
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10894401#post10894401 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by revclyburn
I just broke a part ( the lip that hangs on the tank) of my overflow. How can I fix it, what's the best way and can I use a different material to fix it with?

rev

Can you post a picture of the broken area? Are both the lip and the tank made of acrylic?
 
To unclog it, I hold a match under the needle to 'pop' the solvent out. No squeezing necessary.

You can only do this a few times (7 or 8) before you have to use a new tip.
 
Also, if you drag the needle rather than push it along the joint the acrylic wont get shoved inside.
I always squirt a bit of solvent out of the needle when finished to make sure its clean too.
I have filled the applicator bottle with solvent and left the needle inside overnight, but Marcs trick works fine too:)
 
I use a hand held propane torch to clear the needle. It is the instant on type, so it only takes a press of the button to turn it on and the hotter, more concentrated heat from the torch appears to clean the tip almost instantly without doing ANY damage to the plastic base. The base of the applicator needle doesn't even get warm, let along hot and the torch is only brushed across the tip of the needle for a fraction of a second.

Plus, it is MUCH faster to grab my torch and clear the tip while I am in the middle of applying solvent to a seam than it is to stop, get a match, light the match, THEN clean the tip.
 
I've done the torch thing as well. :o And I've also had a lit candle nearby just to unclog it as it occurs.

Whatever is easiest and doesn't kill ya, right? ;)
 
I always drag my needle the opposite way or at a 45 angle, with a squirt at the end, and havent clogged a needle in 10 yrs:)
I have plenty of other opportunities to hurt myself:lol:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11083749#post11083749 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chriscobb
Is WeldOn 3 or 4 sufficient to bond 1/2" acrylic? Will the pin method also work if using WeldOn 16 as well?
Yes, no. :D

3 or 4 is fine for 1/2". #16 doesn't flow nearly well enough to use the pins method. I only use 16 for sloppy repairs or joining unlike materials (PVC to acrylic).
 
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