DIY Reef Controller

Since i am not a programmer.. ;)
I have use it as a dedicated Serial LCD on my project.
But i was able to use the SD card slot on the LCD back to load images on the screen.

All settings can be changed even firmware upload from a FTDI adaptor yes.
 
I just finished reading the whole thread. I just shake my head in disbelief on how you do/did it, its very impressive. Is there any way to use your controller for just the lights? Maybe in the future when I have more time I'll try to tackle the entire build but for now I just need the lights.

Thanks in advance.
 
one clownfish,

I was actually thinking about this the other day as I know there are A LOT of people who want an easy way to control their DIY led fixture but don't want the entire controller. This could be made very simply and would just do away with the atmega328 micro and only use the arduino mega for the screen control and led control.

dialfonzo,

I just meant how you were uploading the code to the chip behind the screen. Did you download their IDE?
 
I'm ready to take the leap. I think I have everything I need, 2560, RTC,
LCD touch screen & shield, bread board, jumpers and sd card. I see that the RTC
hooks up to the scl & sca and I'm assuming the 5v and ground goes to one of the arduino 5v & grounds(not sure which one there's a few different ones to choose from). I'm completely new to this so please excuse the elementary questions. Is it possible to snap some pictures on how you put the whole thing together?
 
clownfish,

The 5v and GND connections can go to any of the 5v or gnd pins. If you'd like some more personal help feel free to PM me. I'd post pictures but its a complete mess atm working with the other processor.
 
nkd5024
will there be any left over pins for input/output maybe 3 or 5 extra ?? just thinking of some other addins that might be helpful
 
The atmega328 will be completely filled up, although the arduino mega will still have a minimum of around 15 free digital pins and more than likely most of the analog pins which can also function as digital pins.

I have just added a $5 ftdi usb to serial UART chip onto the board so the atmega328 can be programmed just as easily as a normal arduino is, this will save $10 compared to having to buy a special cord that would otherwise be needed to program to chip.

I was thinking of just putting the atmega2560 onto the same board and having everything on a single chip but Itead studios won't allow the tiny trace widths required, so thats out.
 
sounds like this is going to be fun. I am very nervous about the smd soldering looks really small. is there some how we can have a relay and a 110v plug connected to ph of the tank? I would like to have a 3 way solenoid hooked in to my ro so when it fills the tank for ATO and the ph is normal nothing happens but if the ph is low the solenoid will turn off the side that just lets water threw and will turn on the side that flows threw my kalk reactor to help stablize ph and also to help with calcium and other (PPM) chemicals. what are your thoughts Just that every one dosen't have a calcium reactor and if you do there are benifets to running a kalk with it.
 
I have never solders anything smd myself but it doesn't look very hard if you use some solder wick and tweezers.

Anything measured by the controller will be able to turn on/off any of the outlets controlled by the controller. pH and ORP monitoring won't be included in the first release of the working controller I hope to have out in about a month as I am short on cash as it is with the semester coming up. I am hoping to add pH and ORP within another month after that, followed by a wifi sheild. Once these are done I will start adding other things people want such as vortech/tunze, dosing pumps, etc.

The FTDI FT232RL chip is officially on the main board so programming the atmega328 is as simple as uploading code to an arduino itself. The boards are 98% finished and should set out to itead in the next few days.

I will send out the boards with the atmega328 chip already soldered in place. Since the chip cannot be purchased with the arduino bootloader, I will have to do this for anyone not wanting to purchase an ARV ICSP programmer themselves ($38 from digikey).

I have also added an optional space for an attiny85 chip that can be used to play "ringtones" from a piezo buzzer. You can store maybe 2 or 3 of these simple ringtones on the chip which will play depending on which alarm you set it to. So a temperature alarm can play one ringtone while a timer based alarm can play another. This is completely optional if your not interested, but if you are the same thing applies with the bootloader.

I would like to have all the boards on hand for anyone interested so no one has to order 10 boards by themselves. So anyone interested in grabbing one of the boards let me know via pm. Please include whether you want the attiny or not.

Nick D.
 
Here is a 3d image of the layout for the board. It will have space for the ds18b20 temperature sensor, the pressure sensor used for ATO, ds1307 RTC, 6 channels of 0-10v pwm dimming, and dimming for 4 channels of a single 1w moonlight led (4 leds total).

main_top_zpsf7834858.png


If you need 0-10v analog dimming there is also an additional 5x5cm board you can use. 0-5v pwm dimming will also be supported by using a shunt to select 5v instead of 10 and not placing the transistors on each channel.
 
Nick,

You are rapidly outpacing me on the technical details but I am sticking with the Ladyada tutorials you recommended. Hopefully I will have caught up enough that I will be able to follow your tutorial once you have time to complete it. Unfortunately I am a newbie here and can not yet send PMs, however I am interested in getting one of your PCB's if any are still available. Looks like I've got some posting to do.

Thanks again,
Scott
 
I am hoping to make the tutorials easy enough to follow so that someone who has never heard of an arduino can follow along and get the controller working. Although it all the research your doing will enable you to customize the controller to exactly how you want it.

I was thinking of having step by step guides with photographs in a pdf type format for soldering the boards, getting the code working, etc. The largest area that still needs work is the design of a high quality looking enclosure that can be made easily so there are other options other than just using a plastic bin. When the project is 'done' I would like it to look professional.
 
I am ordering the boards tonight, so hopefully in around 12 days I can solder one up and start testing on my tank.

I finished all the code for the atmega328, minus pH and ORP which won't come till later, and now just have to write the functions for them to exchange their data.

I am currently working on some UI changes to make things smoother since I added a few new things. Its basically the same layout with a couple adjustments.

If anyone happens to have a few spare Meanwell LDD driver lying around i'd be more than happy to trade some of my boards for them. I am looking for four 1000's and a 700mA version.
 
nkd5024 or rott I have the same issues- how did you fix it

nkd5024 or rott I have the same issues- how did you fix it

arduino mega 2560 on bottom next is sainsmart tft LCD mega shield v1.0 then 3.2 touch screen (SSD1289) on top nothing else connected

also when I use ITDB02-Touch calibration that came with your sketch there is a little corruption in some of the words on the calibration screen and some of the +'s on the left side have a black vertical line threw them

rott,

just sent you a pm for some code to test out.

So when you use the library provided in the download everything compiles and runs until you get to the lock screen which doesn't respond to you touching the screen correct?

What brand/model hardware are you using and how are they connected?

done and it seemed to work fine
 
I never did get it to run right I am hoping to try agian soon
I have got other sketches to run just having a little trouble with this one I am sure with some help from NKD we both will fix the problem
 
Seamonkey can you post what equipment you have how it is hooked up and what you see on the screen and any error you might of had
 
I just received the 5 inch lcd screen from Itead studios yesterday. The lcd screen works wonderfully other than the refresh time. I may look into switching to an Arduino due down the road for the 5 inch screen when they are actually in stock.

The quality of the screen is way higher than my 3.2" screen from Sainsmart, the touch screen is much more reactive and the color of the screen is much fuller. I have the touch screen working to a degree and am hoping by tonight to have a quick video of the screen with some UI images re-sized for the screen with the touch screen working so check back later today.
 
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