DIY Rimless Starphire and Stainless Kiddy Pool (PICS!)

Stugray- I have 48 XRE series cree LEDs and 12 UV LEDs heat sinked onto my 12xT5HO reflectors with thermal epoxy. I also have 4x 70w MH under the reflector as well.

They are setup in 7 incremental lighting stages to smoothly transition from morning to night. The T5HO's are set to only be on for 3hrs in the peak of the day. I recently switched to using Fiji Purple bulbs from KZ, and I am LOVING the colors! The lights also smoothly change photo period with the seasonal changes.

Best Wishes,
-Luke
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12681218#post12681218 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kcress
melev; It took me 4 hours to put up that post. I tried more than 20 times. So that was likely related to this site having a massive brain fart.
Click to expand...

I know, I saw the notifications in my email. That is when I reported the thread as 'stuck' and some mysterious moderator fixed it for us.
 
Thank you Foo!

Thank you Marc for having the mods let my thread work again :)

-Luke

PS: I'm going to take some more pictures for you guys tonight.
 
Thanks Beerguy!

[img=http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/6867/ledballastsbo7.th.jpg]


This is a picture for the folks who PM'd me to ask what LED ballasts I use. the large ones take a 0-5VDC control signal to vary output between 50mA to 1000mA, and can drive 12 LEDs each. The smaller ballasts are fixed at 700mA and can power up to 9 LEDs each. The ballasts use 110VAC. I got them from Hong Kong for cheap. They are fully potted in epoxy, and are fully waterproof. I've been pleased with them.

Best Wishes,
-Luke
 
Luke - Do you have your origianl photos of the tank linked somewhere? They are not coming up at the beginning of the thread anymore.....:confused:

Thanks,
DW302
 
I would also like to see the pictures of this most wonderful sounding tank.

I also want to add my resizing method since I see that was discussed recently.

http://download.microsoft.com/download/whistler/Install/2/WXP/EN-US/ImageResizerPowertoySetup.exe

This program is the best around, once installed you simply select all the files you want to resize in explorer and right click. It adds a menu option called resize pictures and brings up a small interface with a few options.

It truly changed my life. :)
 
Is it my computer or is there something wrong with all the images in this thread? I can't get a single picture. Tried turning off the firewall, but that did not help.
 
Nope they were put up on a server that was subsequently taken down. Yes it is kinda sad as this was a unique build.
 
Read the entire thread, much to my boss' dismay... Can't wait for photos.

I follow all of Lukes, beananimals and melev's threads. I love the variety and ingenuity of you guys. I also read your glassbox threads, some candlepower forums stuff and several on here.

*** I'm inspired to replace all of my tunze equipment with a single VFD controlled motor and have some questions that I would love answered by whomever.

What I plan to order:
-Baldor 3ph motor, 230V input, 56J frame, Nema class B, 3450 RPM
-VS mini Yaskawa AP040 115V 1p x 230V 3ph Variable speed driver
-Reeflo centrifugal pump head for 56J frame
-some kind of timer or PWM to ramp the timer up and down?

A lot of my questions I could answer if I could see photos, but alas, can someone else chime in to help me out here? Mostly plumbing questions.

What I need to know to move forward:
-number, size and orientation/location of eductors to create a good surge in my 7'x2'x2' tank.
-a simple plumbing size suggestion for the motor (1", 1.5"? in/out)
-do you think I will need any supplemental water movement after this 'mod'?
-Feeder pipe inlet, suggested design that protects fish
-Will 3450RPM be an issue? I know it will be louder and have less torque, but I think I can run it at a lower RPM if needed?


*PS, I gave up on my LED project again for a while, my new PAR meter showed my luxeon k3 star array at 750mA to give only 200 PAR max at 6"!!! I know a rebel LED array with high bin and good optics may be able to triple that number. Until then I plan to use my array shortly to create a shimmer effect w/ my HOT5 setup (still biggest PAR for the money I think).
 
One more, What happens during a power outage? Do you have to reprogram your VFD in that case? I wanted to connect mine up to my feeder pump circuit, which would toggle the 120VAC feed off during feedings w/ the return sequence pump.


I'm pretty positive I'm going forward w/ a replica of your VFD in hopes of replacing all my in tank equipment for a higher overall flow and small energy reduction.

I'm thinking of 4 eductors? still new to them and researching, but I'm told my pump will be able to push around 50' of head and that to get pressure you use the following (50' of head - headloss)/2.31 = pressure, not sure where the service rep came up with that though. But I guess that would give me around 15psi to mess with...
 
First off this is mainly opinion based from what I have researched for my 4'x4'x18" build whenever it happens.....

-number, size and orientation/location of eductors to create a good surge in my 7'x2'x2' tank.

I suspect your buying these, similar to the Pacific Coast units? A good start is the following thread: Penductors.
You could probably go up to 6 eductors to limit concentrated zones of flow.

-a simple plumbing size suggestion for the motor (1", 1.5"? in/out)

I believe Luke went very in-depth about plumbing in the beginning portion of the thread. It's been over a year since I have read it though. I might be thinking of another of his threads.

-do you think I will need any supplemental water movement after this 'mod'?

I 'think' after you have the eductors positioned to your liking and the flow of each tweaked there would be no need for supplemental flow. Two eductors hooked to an old-school Little Giant turned my current 58g into a hurricane zone. I don't think you'll have any problems as you have 3 times the footprint of my tank and using a VFD and pressure-rated motor.

-Feeder pipe inlet, suggested design that protects fish

I have seen some take a 3-4" PVC pipe and cut it in half. Then thay cut slits with a table saw and silicone this into the bottom corner. The problem I have with this is if sand, shells, etc. falls in it is stuck for life until you tear the tank apart. I have also seen others that use PVC end caps (2-3") and modify these quite extensively to thread directly into the bulkhead. I personally like this method, as you can easily remove these and soak in vinegar in 6 months when they start to encrust with the calcareous tube worms, coralline, and any other obstructive growth. There are as many options here as there are ways to plumb a tank.

-Will 3450RPM be an issue? I know it will be louder and have less torque, but I think I can run it at a lower RPM if needed?

Honestly do not know??....

I hope my reply has some merit, as I HAVE NOT performed this mod and have only researched the idea. I have a system drawn up and most of the components bought, minus the Reeflo pump head. Still trying to find a broke pump or I may end up buying a new unit from Reeflo. I know my post is vague at best. Unfortunately, this is one of those projects you cannot completely cover every angle until you start the build and then there are always areas you would do differently next time.

HTH some,
DW302
 
Last edited:
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14496939#post14496939 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by zachtos

*** I'm inspired to replace all of my tunze equipment with a single VFD controlled motor and have some questions that I would love answered by whomever.

What I plan to order:
-Baldor 3ph motor, 230V input, 56J frame, Nema class B, 3450 RPM
-VS mini Yaskawa AP040 115V 1p x 230V 3ph Variable speed driver
-Reeflo centrifugal pump head for 56J frame
-some kind of timer or PWM to ramp the timer up and down?

A lot of my questions I could answer if I could see photos, but alas, can someone else chime in to help me out here? Mostly plumbing questions.

What I need to know to move forward:
-number, size and orientation/location of eductors to create a good surge in my 7'x2'x2' tank.
-a simple plumbing size suggestion for the motor (1", 1.5"? in/out)
-do you think I will need any supplemental water movement after this 'mod'?
-Feeder pipe inlet, suggested design that protects fish
-Will 3450RPM be an issue? I know it will be louder and have less torque, but I think I can run it at a lower RPM if needed?


*
Click to expand...

I'm not quite sure why you wouldn't just order a 1750 RPM baldor motor that matches what the Reeflo wet ends are designed for. They're often cheaper then the 3450 RPM units by a little bit.

There are a lot if VFD's besides the Y that Luke uses. Do some research and you might find some viable options. As far as control, if you want anything beyond the basic "ramp to target peak speed in x seconds, decelerate to lower speed in Y seconds, repeat" You'll need to look into the input options, and the configuration options available.

The two 56J wet ends from Reeflow are the same, and use 1.5" inlet and outlet. Only the impeller is different (the barracuda and Hammerhead)

(as a side note, unfortunately even the biggest new Reeflo blackfin 6000 is a 48 framed wet end, not as many, if any, bolt-on 3-phase motor options for that wet end, and it takes pressure a bit better then the Barracuda and Hammerhead)

Inlet design is the same set of considerations as any of the many successful tanks that have used a Hammerhead as the closed loop pump.
 
the 1750rpm motor was not available from reeflow, the wetend was expensive and they had a good deal for the 3450. I'll likely use 1.5" and a manifold that splits to either 4 or 6 - 3/4" feeds for penductors. I was thinking 2-8 penductor heads but don't know how many I can use yet.

Can I just use two 1" pipes to feed the inlet for the closed loop w/ regular strainers? Or is there a simpler better way to do this, once again, photos are magical, but missing still here.

I like the Yasakawa drive that luke mentioned, it seems to have a lot more options then the others and it runs on 115V. I can't find many for less then $150-$235 range. It will cost me $100 just to wire up a 220V socket for the driver too.

Anyone have suggestions for how to layout my penductors to get that wave washing effect that luke has? A picture would be awesome. I have a 7'x2'x2' tank and just wanted some suggestions so I could order penductors and flexible pvc.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14511645#post14511645 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by zachtos
the 1750rpm motor was not available from reeflow, the wetend was expensive and they had a good deal for the 3450. I'll likely use 1.5" and a manifold that splits to either 4 or 6 - 3/4" feeds for penductors. I was thinking 2-8 penductor heads but don't know how many I can use yet.

Can I just use two 1" pipes to feed the inlet for the closed loop w/ regular strainers? Or is there a simpler better way to do this, once again, photos are magical, but missing still here.

I like the Yasakawa drive that luke mentioned, it seems to have a lot more options then the others and it runs on 115V. I can't find many for less then $150-$235 range. It will cost me $100 just to wire up a 220V socket for the driver too.
Click to expand...

Ok, I'm even more confused. You don't get the motor from Reeflo, only the wet end. 1/3hp 56j 1750 rpm 3 phase baldor motors are available from tons of electrical supply shops online.

Why are you wiring a 220v socket when the drivers we use for these home-made VFD's are all standard 110v? The VFD to motor wiring is all hard-wired, no socket required.

2 x 1" isn't a good replacement for doing a proper single, or pair of 1 1/2" or larger feeds for the intake side of the pump. It's not a place you want to mess with restriction.
 
Zachtos- Power outages don't effect my VFD or digital timer. When the power comes back on, they come back on and run normally.


I've been neglecting this thread for a long time. I'm going to do some re-posting photos and things. I've changed so much of the tank in so many areas, It's hardly the same anymore. I didn't make the changes because it wasn't working well as it was, but rather because I enjoy tinkering and building.

I built a large cone skimmer for the tank that features a titanium impeller, titanium shaft, and very cool ceramic ball bearings with a 3-phase DC variable speed brushless motor with frequency drive. It works awesome, only draws 40w and can foam cannon my 8" neck with a creamy froth. Nothing like 7,000rpm to make thick stable foam.

However, I was never able to make it absolutely whisper quiet, and I think that air-stone skimmers perform best now. So, I'm going to scrap it and convert to air stone driven.

I've also made some slick powerheads using titanium and ceramic bearings with brushless 3-phase DC motors and controllers spinning RC aircraft turbine impellers. Resulted in some stuff that worked extremely well.

I need to do some photo-updating.

Best Wishes,
-Luke
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

adova
300g DIY Acrylic Tank Recommendations
Replies
5
Views
227
griss
griss
S
Sump at Same Level as DT
Replies
9
Views
279
wvned
wvned
L
Aqueon 215g Build Thread
Replies
7
Views
683
OldReefGuy
O
BuckeyeFish
Water storage tank recommendations
Replies
3
Views
158
OrionN
OrionN
M
Euro bracing rimless tank
2
Replies
21
Views
1K
M3AN ONE
M
Back
Top