NanoReefWanabe
Active member
Why not? Thousands of tanks are drilled through the back... this would be no different... elbow down becomes siphon and original pipe emergency
DIY Sump Design
- Thread starter aSmallcat
- Start date
Why not? Thousands of tanks are drilled through the back... this would be no different... elbow down becomes siphon and original pipe emergency
aSmallcat
New member
That's a good point I could do that maybe. How does a T fitting help though? I'm not familiar.
aSmallcat
New member
If the new bulkhead makes noise that's fine. It's only there for when the full siphon doesn't keep up. I could do a T fitting out the side instead or a 90 to keep it from trying to siphonn too. Or drill an air hole in a 90.
aSmallcat
New member
So I know that Lowes near me sells and cuts glass but its only 1/8" thick.. I know others have used this for baffles and it has worked.. sometimes. But it's dirt cheap. I think in my sump the water pressure wouldn't be the issue. I think me moving things in the sump would be the greatest danger to the glass breaking. Think its worth the risk?
NanoReefWanabe
Active member
I don't know what fish is talking about with ats as I don't have one nor do I want one.. but I never thiught they had drains... my belief was water tumbled over them into the sump... anyway thousands of tanks and overflow boxes are drilled through the sides... if you are concerned about air lock them drill a hole in the top of the elbow to break the siphon sooner
SFish
New member
Show me an overflow box that has drains like that. Also what your talking about with a T and pipe was brought up I can't remember what the problem was with that but there was an issue with doing that as well. A 3D ats is a closed box much like an overflow. The only way an overflow box is set up like what your saying is when there is no outside box and they run pipes straight down from the back of the tank. As I said this might work but there are issues with doing this on an ATS
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It's famous external overflow box made by Eshopps. You can try to adjust return flow to see if it reduces the noise. I had used it and it always created noise in some degree whatever I tried.
The solution was Hofer Gurgle Buster. Google it. It's easy to DIY it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The solution was Hofer Gurgle Buster. Google it. It's easy to DIY it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
aSmallcat
New member
Update
Update
I've got the piping in the back set back up. Not glued together yet though. The sump baffles are fully cured. I went with acrylic. And used plenty of silicone to fill the gap. Seems sturdy and no leaks.
Trial run in progress. Runs silent. And yes I put the gate valve on the overflow box to keep full siphon.
The only thing not installed yet is the airline for the k1 media.
The silicone isn't pretty but that doesn't matter much for a sump.
Update
I've got the piping in the back set back up. Not glued together yet though. The sump baffles are fully cured. I went with acrylic. And used plenty of silicone to fill the gap. Seems sturdy and no leaks.
Trial run in progress. Runs silent. And yes I put the gate valve on the overflow box to keep full siphon.
The only thing not installed yet is the airline for the k1 media.
The silicone isn't pretty but that doesn't matter much for a sump.
SFish
New member
Only time will tell if the baffles hold. Once they heat up and cool down a few times then you'll know. I've seen people have them in for a while and then be able to pop them right out. When I put something together I want to make sure it's going to last and not going to leak but that's just me. You maybe redoing the baffles a month from now or in a few years. Maybe you'll get lucky and never. There are more failures then successes.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2261709
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2261709
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