DIY Tank (Dialup beware), Step by Step
- Thread starter Acrylics
- Start date
Hi Michael,
In theory, the 4" brace isn't doing a whole lot other than "backing up" the back wall so you could (again - in theory) remove it completely. If you wanted to make the overflow to full height, you'd actually be making a 36" deep tank with a baffle in it, which is fine - no problem but I'd make the overflow 8" wide rather than 6 so you can put a 3" flange on the back of the overflow as well, as it would have to hold the pressure of full water height. Just remember to fill the tank and overflow simultaneously to keep pressure equalized. Hope this makes sense.
I use a table mounted router to rough out the cutouts (see earlier in this thread), then smooth it out with the template.
Hi Marc,
Gotta remember that the bottom of the overflow itself being glued to the back will provide rigidity to the back wall. So in effect, the upper 10" of the back wall only has to provide support for the differential in pressure between the tank & overflow which will be about 3-4" in reality.
James
woz9683
Premium Member
Ok, I was just worried about the router bit grabbing the material when cutting through the full width of the bit like that.
I think I'm going to leave the top as it is. I figured that 4" flange wasn't really doing much but at the very least it provides some separation between the holes so I can make overflow covers and keep it closed off. Also, the back flange is a full 3", my holes are just slightly under 4" wide so they actually extend to the inside of the back wall of the tank.
Thanks Marc, glad you like the sketches! Originally, I hadn't thought of extending the top to cover the overflow and then those 3 points (6 at that time) would have been my only contact area. James quickly suggested the full top, so now, the sides of my overflow are really just an extension of the side walls of my tank. I guess there will still be a small amount of torque on that 6" strip that attaches to the top. I could add a couple of triangular braces (inside the overflow box) to shore it up a little more. But really, between a 6" flange (essentially that's what the bottom of the overflow box is) halfway up the tank wall and the full top there should be more than enough support.
woz9683
Premium Member
Wow, I just rough cut my opening (in the sump) with my jigsaw. I have to say that, except for the corners it's at least as smooth a cut as that forest blade I just bought. Of course, the blade probably wouldn't cut good corners either 
. Oh well, the blade will be nice for all the long cuts.
. Oh well, the blade will be nice for all the long cuts.
I'm serious! 
melev
Well-known member
2" is what I used in my current sump, and it works great. For most of the normal-sized sumps, 1" suffices. It comes down to how many GPH you plan to push through the sump. Here's a pic of my sump as a link to avoid cluttering up the thread:
http://www.melevsreef.com/280g/my_sump1.jpg
http://www.melevsreef.com/280g/my_sump1.jpg
BruiseAndy
New member
So mine should be cured now that its been in the garage for 8 months right??? Safe to water test now?<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9917023#post9917023 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Acrylics
14 weeks
Actually a few hours should be just fine. Make sure though that you let it fully cure prior to testing, meaning wait at least a week - preferably 2.
James
miwoodar
Likey the bikey
You guys have written up some awesome threads on acrylic. At this point I have definitely lost track of the number of pages I have poured over. Thanks so much for your effort. I think it's time to consider a DIY acrylic tank. I have a quick question.
I'm looking at a 37x37x28 cube. I have called around and gotten quotes on 1/2" acrylic and I am right at the limits of my budget...if I change up the eurobracing a bit. I want to do a 3 1/2" eurobrace made from four strips then gusset each corner of the brace with a triangle wedge. Will this work? It seems that it would spread the load out from the spot where the strips join, yes? Would this be enough?
I'm looking at a 37x37x28 cube. I have called around and gotten quotes on 1/2" acrylic and I am right at the limits of my budget...if I change up the eurobracing a bit. I want to do a 3 1/2" eurobrace made from four strips then gusset each corner of the brace with a triangle wedge. Will this work? It seems that it would spread the load out from the spot where the strips join, yes? Would this be enough?
woz9683
Premium Member
That size seems like it wastes a lot of material. Any particular reason it has to be those dimensions? If you could change it up a little bit to better utilize standard sheet sizes your price might come down some. Then, you would be able to do a true eurobrace on the top which would give you better bracing. If you do go with your current route, I don't know if 3.5" strips is going to be enough. With no cross bracing I think you're cutting it pretty close, especially when you lose the strength of good radius corners by using strips.
If you don't mind listing prices, how are you buying the material (sheet, sq. ft., etc.), how much are you paying for it, and what brand is it?
If you don't mind listing prices, how are you buying the material (sheet, sq. ft., etc.), how much are you paying for it, and what brand is it?
miwoodar
Likey the bikey
I chose those sizes because they fit my space well. Maybe you could suggest revisions? I'm not buying full sheets though - they're only charging for what I take.
For the 5 main pieces, I have been quoted anywhere from $375 to $460 for rough cut pieces that would be ready for the router table. Does this sound about right? I don't know the brand. It's cell cast from Port Plastics. I've also called GE Polymershapes and a few local companies. Should I try anyone else?
It will be clear on all sides. I intended to make the back black but after reading on one of these threads that colors are harder to glue (is this a common sentiment?) I decided against it. External overflow of ~15 inches.
For the 5 main pieces, I have been quoted anywhere from $375 to $460 for rough cut pieces that would be ready for the router table. Does this sound about right? I don't know the brand. It's cell cast from Port Plastics. I've also called GE Polymershapes and a few local companies. Should I try anyone else?
It will be clear on all sides. I intended to make the back black but after reading on one of these threads that colors are harder to glue (is this a common sentiment?) I decided against it. External overflow of ~15 inches.
miwoodar
Likey the bikey
OK - so I just called to confirm. If I add a true seamless euro trim it will bring the total up to $445 at the cheapest place. They recommended a guy who will trim the pieces and route the edges for $20. He says he has made many aquariums and knows exactly what I need.
The contact quoted the brand as 'Import'. She said it was probably from Indonesia.
The contact quoted the brand as 'Import'. She said it was probably from Indonesia.
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