diy tank stand

cw3561

New member
I'm gona make my own stand. Has anybody ever made one and had any real problems getting the tank level on it? I'm worried about being able to get it level. I would hate to have a 120g crack and leak out all over the place
 
The first thing to do is check the place the stand is going to go for level(floor) both ways. You also need a level place to build the stand. Check each top rail for level as you assemble the stand. You can do minor adjustments with shims when you set it up.
 
This is a stand that I built for my 90. It is also designed to hold either a 75, 90, or 120 just in case I ever decided to sell it or get a larger tank. It is going to be going in the wall this summer so I'm going to have to get rid of the stand. But the easiest way to make it level is to just cut all the uprights the exact same length and assemble the all the same. Then if the corners are square, you won't have to worry about it being level so long as where it is going is level.

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i built a stand w/ 2x4s 49" long, 13" wide; i had no leveling problems. i took care to measure and cut everything to spec.
 
That is a very cool stand pvtschultz. .:eek1: I'm gona be checking that out when I start mine. I'm gona be putting it on a tile floor so i'll be checking that area to see if it's level. The las tank I had was a 40g and i had it on a tile floor and never had problems with it. Is it a good idea to put a layer of foam material under the tank? it's glass. And thanks for the pics. It really looks beefy. The ones you buy from the store look so flimsey and weak.
 
The general thought about foam is if it has a flat bottom (similar to acrylic tanks and some tanks by small business) then use foam. If the tank has a rim around the perimeter where the bottom of the tank is recessed up from the rim, then don't. Just make sure that there are no tall edges around where the tank will sit and you'll be fine. I took a belt sander to all areas where the 2x4's met to level them off. When you are at the lumber store, pick out the straightest lumber you can find. Look down the entire length of the board from one and check both small sides. Make sure that there are no humps or bows in the board. Then you know that the stand will be straight. Another good idea is to let the lumber dry for a couple weeks before you cut it/use it so that it can finish drying out. Then check it for straightness again and use the straightest ones for the top and bottom rim, the not so straight ones will work for the sides. Just don't lay the lumber on a concrete floor to dry.
 
marino420, that is awsome. But i can see your a avid wood worker or carpenter. Gorgeous, have you ever built stands for people? is so how much would you charge?.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7096900#post7096900 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JmLee
marino420, that is awsome. But i can see your a avid wood worker or carpenter. Gorgeous, have you ever built stands for people? is so how much would you charge?.

Thanks. This is the first really nice stand I have built. It is taking quite a while since I don't have a lot of time to work on it. I will have about $600 in materials alone in this stand and canopy. Not sure what I would have to charge for my time.
 
marino420td, I went to the link, I saw, I laughed with joy, I cryed with envy and then just staired drooling. I know you've heard it all but wow, mose excellent craftemanship and design. It's that kind of stuff that gets people motivated to do great things. Thanks for the response to my post and thanks for the link and thanks for helping me to think way bigger then i was thinking. I will be studying and try to employ that kind of multi level thinking on my project.
 
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