DIY water heater setup to heat tank

In my system I use the Laing LHB08100092 which has a built in temp switch that turn off the pump at about 95 +/- degrees. Thus you should not have a problem with cooking your tank.

As for the EnderG60's comment about summer time, valid point, but in my system I am in a basement and my pump continues to run all year long. If you have a controller like mine (www.mact.tech) you could set a minimum for the pump to kick on in the summer to avoid any stagnate water.

I also installed about 25 ft of closely rolled line in my sump. It would be more efficient to use less and gap each coil for more surface area.
 
I have been using this for a couple years now. No problems, basement system so stagnation is not a worry. I went direct to hot water heater so I didn't warm up cool water lines. Has saved me tons!
 
I have been using this for a couple years now. No problems, basement system so stagnation is not a worry. I went direct to hot water heater so I didn't warm up cool water lines. Has saved me tons!

I know this thread is old.. but are you still using your hot water heater to heat your tank?
 
I have been using this for a couple years now. No problems, basement system so stagnation is not a worry. I went direct to hot water heater so I didn't warm up cool water lines. Has saved me tons!

I assume the savings is because your water heater runs on gas and gas is cheaper than electricity? I've considered doing this, but my hot water heater is electric and all I'd be doing is 'transferring" costs, not actually saving anything.
 
Correct, gas is cheaper. I save nearly 40$ a month over electric heaters to keep my nearly 180g (total) at 77 degrees.
 
Post #1 of this thread

I see those, sorry I should have been more clear. For some reason im not understanding exactly what those lines coming off the pump are connected to. My sump is only 3 ft from my sump where I plan to put the pex.
 
I have tapped into the hot and cold lines that lead into my utility tub. I have a hot line coming in, and a T in that line. The hot line continues to the hot inlet on the faucet. The T off the hot it to supply hot water to the 25ft coil BEFORE the pump. The cold side goes into the pump then the faucet. I put the T in the hot line so I didn't warm the tank by pulling hot water when the hot faucet was turned on.
 
I assume the savings is because your water heater runs on gas and gas is cheaper than electricity? I've considered doing this, but my hot water heater is electric and all I'd be doing is 'transferring" costs, not actually saving anything.

Correct, natural gas hot water heating here.
 
****The hot supply is connected to a Tee that has one out to the hot side of the utility faucet and the second runs thru about 50ft of Pex that is submerged in the sump, then into the hot supply port on the pump. This Tee will prevent the 65ft of Pex from being heated by running the hot faucet alone. The only time the 65ft of Pex is heated is when the pump is running. This also requires a cap on the hot output of the pump.*****

I don't understand this. what did the pump do on this scenario? you capped the hot output of the pump? so the hot water go thru the pex in the sum and return to the hot supply port. That is only one way. Only input and no output?
 
The 'T' is required in my setup because if it were not there, then every time I turned on the hot at the faucet it would send hot water thru the pump and pex and heat the tank. Putting the 'T' in place allows me to run the hot tap without warming the sump. So the pump has a in on the hot side and a out on the cold side for recirculation. No hot out on the pump.
 
The 'T' is required in my setup because if it were not there, then every time I turned on the hot at the faucet it would send hot water thru the pump and pex and heat the tank. Putting the 'T' in place allows me to run the hot tap without warming the sump. So the pump has a in on the hot side and a out on the cold side for recirculation. No hot out on the pump.

Thank you. I like your setup.
 
Back
Top