DIY water heater setup to heat tank

metzz71

New member
I just wanted to share my setup I installed over the weekend. I purchased the Laing E1 pump that is meant for under the sink installation. My sump is about 20-25 feet from the display tank, in a utility room that is not insulated. Thus, my heating bill has been rather high. One concern I had was running plumbing 30 feet across my finished basement, the E1 solved this. Secondly, I wanted a pump made for 65 lbs of water pressure, again E1 solved this.

The Laing E1 is meant to be installed at the faucet furthest from the water heater. It has a hot/cold in and out ports. The top of the pump housing includes a check valve that opens when the pump is running and closed when not. This pump eliminates the need for a "cold loop" back to the heater utilizing the cold circuit while also utilizing the hot/cold circuits already in the utility room for the utility tub faucet. The pump also has a built in thermostat that starts the pump when it senses the water temp at 86 degrees and stops it when it reaches 96 degrees. It has a built in timer that is not needed in my setup with my aqua controller.

I currently have an aqua controller (RKE, sigh......) to control the pump on off. Therefore, 100ft of pex, Laing Pump, and various Pex fittings was all that was required to make this setup successful.

The hot supply is connected to a Tee that has one out to the hot side of the utility faucet and the second runs thru about 50ft of Pex that is submerged in the sump, then into the hot supply port on the pump. This Tee will prevent the 65ft of Pex from being heated by running the hot faucet alone. The only time the 65ft of Pex is heated is when the pump is running. This also requires a cap on the hot output of the pump.

The cold supply is connected to the cold supply of the pump and the cold out of the pump is then run to the cold side of the faucet.

I set the RKE to 77.5 degrees as a controller with the Hysteresis at .5 therefore allowing a 1 degree flux in heating. This may not be the final setting as I am still testing to see the best results. As of today, the pump is on for 5 min and off for 20 min.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0110.jpg
    IMG_0110.jpg
    48.3 KB · Views: 7
  • IMG_0111.jpg
    IMG_0111.jpg
    39.8 KB · Views: 5
  • IMG_0112.jpg
    IMG_0112.jpg
    41.7 KB · Views: 6
  • IMG_0113.jpg
    IMG_0113.jpg
    45.6 KB · Views: 6
  • IMG_0114.jpg
    IMG_0114.jpg
    40.6 KB · Views: 6
Last edited:
Like it! I set up my hot water loop last weekend and tested it. Rock solid at 77 for the 36 hour test and brought 200 gallons to temp in less than an hour. I am running mine on dual Rancos because no controller yet. I felt this was a better solution than electric for a large system in an unheated space. Looking forward to hearing your long term results.
 
Thanks mutely! Thus far I have seen a decrease in kWh's by +/- 10 in the electric usage! This is huge! I am trying to decide which is best, on for 1 min/off for 5 min or on for 5 off for 20min. The more frequent the pump is on, the more stable the temp, 77~77.5. With it on for 5/20, the temp fluctuates 77~78. Also playing with temp probe placement. Should it be next to the coil loop? in front of it? behind it? etc.
 
Nice build. Keeping an eye on this thread for future use. I'd place the temp probe in your display since that is the water volume whose temperature you are wanting to maintain.
 
Nice build. Keeping an eye on this thread for future use. I'd place the temp probe in your display since that is the water volume whose temperature you are wanting to maintain.

Thanks! I keep the temp probe in the sump to keep it out of my DT, but it is 20~25 ft away, so I adjust 2 degrees for the difference.

I will post more as I get more details.
 
Thanks! I keep the temp probe in the sump to keep it out of my DT, but it is 20~25 ft away, so I adjust 2 degrees for the difference.

I will post more as I get more details.

Any concern that nonstatic flow rates in your plumbing (over time) or seasonal room temp changes will cause the required temp offset to change, perhaps unknowingly?


Temp probes are small, I'd keep it in the display for peace of mind.
 
Metzz71 I too built a similar solution and its been running for 1yr now. This has by far been the single best investment in my system. 800g total system and heated for next to $0. System has been rock solid, silent, and keeps temp within about 1 degree given current hystersis.

there are some to claim the cost for fuel however with these systems using heat from our hot water systems and not furnace/boilers we are utilizing heat which would likely just be sitting there and lost as we are not constantly using hot water.

Heres a link to my build thread of the HW system.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2285507
 
Metzz71 I too built a similar solution and its been running for 1yr now. This has by far been the single best investment in my system. 800g total system and heated for next to $0. System has been rock solid, silent, and keeps temp within about 1 degree given current hystersis.

there are some to claim the cost for fuel however with these systems using heat from our hot water systems and not furnace/boilers we are utilizing heat which would likely just be sitting there and lost as we are not constantly using hot water.

Heres a link to my build thread of the HW system.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2285507


Yes! I read your thread and another couple which gave me the solution to my $$ electric bill problem. I was looking for an efficient heating solution. THANK YOU! I found this "new" style pump that allowed me to use the hot/cold pipes already in the room. BONUS! My wife is very happy for the hot water at the faucets!
 
What did you get the pump for? What I've seen they spendy..I don't quite get where the water goes after the pump? Back to the water heater?
 
Any concern that nonstatic flow rates in your plumbing (over time) or seasonal room temp changes will cause the required temp offset to change, perhaps unknowingly?


Temp probes are small, I'd keep it in the display for peace of mind.

Just run the wire along your plumbing up to the DT.
 
What did you get the pump for? What I've seen they spendy..I don't quite get where the water goes after the pump? Back to the water heater?

The idea is to create a loop with the hot water heater outlet At the start and the hot water heater side inlet as the end. Somewhere inbetween is a pump (controlled by your aquarium heater controller) and the loop of piping submersed in your sump (does the actual heating of the aquarium water).
 
The idea is to create a loop with the hot water heater outlet At the start and the hot water heater side inlet as the end. Somewhere inbetween is a pump (controlled by your aquarium heater controller) and the loop of piping submersed in your sump (does the actual heating of the aquarium water).
Thanks understand now
 
What did you get the pump for? What I've seen they spendy..I don't quite get where the water goes after the pump? Back to the water heater?

Yes, they are a bit $$$. I found my "used" on amazon site for $200. I also checked craigslist and eBay for used ones. home depot has a version online only for $240... overall I expect to get my money back in about 1 year. I have dropped 10 kilowatt hours/day since installation last weekend.
 
Yes, they are a bit $$$. I found my "used" on amazon site for $200. I also checked craigslist and eBay for used ones. home depot has a version online only for $240... overall I expect to get my money back in about 1 year. I have dropped 10 kilowatt hours/day since installation last weekend.
What is your total water volume?
 
I got this little bronze pump for $118 to the door from eBay a few months ago.
Taco® Circulating Pump with 1/2" Sweat Connections (006-BC4)
 
Back
Top