DIY Wavebox Tutorial from start to finish!
- Thread starter xtm
- Start date
Eklikewhoa
New member
So you are using your 6055 in a wave box?
How are you getting any kind of waves? Which controller and w/ or w/o box?
Eklikewhoa
New member
Mind if I ask you some questions?
Was there anything different that you did compared to the larger ones?
What is the height from the pump to the water surface?
Did you use the same plug that was used in this thread?
What size is your tank?
aries70
New member
my Box is 5.5" x 5" x 13" as for the pump I did do some of the nano mods to shroud, like cutting the tube around prop out also opened theshroud inlets by cutting two out the leaveing on bar the repeating didn't seem to be worth that mod. The pump is about 9" below surface yes I used the same plug as XTM used, I used an AT keybord extension cable and cut the female end off, my Tank is Plywood it is 4' x 2' x 16" it has about 75 Gallons in it I have the water depth about 14.5"
imisky
New member
hi guys,
i built this DIY controller unit today and when i finished to plug into my 6055 it would only stop for a few seconds upon plug in and then continue to spin normally. The only difference is i used a 0.1uF POLY CAP instead of a 0.1uF ceramic would this make any difference?
what do you guys think? would that capacitor make that much difference?
i am stump right now as i actually took the parts off my board and re-soldered every part and the end result was the same. so now im looking at the parts i got compared to the parts which worked for you guys.
this is what it looked like the 2nd time through...i know its messy as i was just plugging away...the first time would have been easy to follow on photo...
i built this DIY controller unit today and when i finished to plug into my 6055 it would only stop for a few seconds upon plug in and then continue to spin normally. The only difference is i used a 0.1uF POLY CAP instead of a 0.1uF ceramic would this make any difference?
what do you guys think? would that capacitor make that much difference?
i am stump right now as i actually took the parts off my board and re-soldered every part and the end result was the same. so now im looking at the parts i got compared to the parts which worked for you guys.
this is what it looked like the 2nd time through...i know its messy as i was just plugging away...the first time would have been easy to follow on photo...
Last edited:
yellowsubmarine
New member
holy sh@t!! you're the guy that made that video huh? i stumbled across that months ago and was blown away, hands down the best wave maker i've seen, were you trying to do it in time with the music? lol it appears that way at times, well now i'm gonna go read this thread. maybe even try to make on myself. again.. top notch work! cheers!
imisky
New member
so the 1.0uF should be swapped out for a 10uF?
aries70 would you be able to take a picture of your controller and show me what it looks like of your connections? i literally took 3 hours staring at the schematic and my board to see if i made any error in connections and i couldn't see any
aries70 would you be able to take a picture of your controller and show me what it looks like of your connections? i literally took 3 hours staring at the schematic and my board to see if i made any error in connections and i couldn't see any
aries70
New member
imsky yes the 1.0 should be a 10 with the 1.0 it will be way too fast. pics of mine but i don't think they'll help it's pretty ghetto seeing as I didn't have any boards so mine has wire going between everything
I do rember that on my last atempt it didn't work and I used a .47 this one I don't have that cap hooked up don't know how important it is but everything works fine with out it
(C2) 10 uF electrolytic cap (polarized.. but it wouldn't matter)
(IC1) 555 timer IC + socket (easier to solder)
(R1) 1KΩ resistor
(C3) .1 uF ceramic cap
(R2) 20KΩ resistor
(C1) .47uF capacitor
(P1) 500kΩ pot
I do rember that on my last atempt it didn't work and I used a .47 this one I don't have that cap hooked up don't know how important it is but everything works fine with out it
(C2) 10 uF electrolytic cap (polarized.. but it wouldn't matter)
(IC1) 555 timer IC + socket (easier to solder)
(R1) 1KΩ resistor
(C3) .1 uF ceramic cap
(R2) 20KΩ resistor
(C1) .47uF capacitor
(P1) 500kΩ pot
imisky
New member
so in your current setup you dont have the 0.47uF in between pin2 and pin5 and it still works just fine? maybe XTM can chime in about the purpose of the 0.47uF cap.
I know mine right now even if i twist the potentiometer nothing happens. i'll go and grab a 10uF cap tomorrow and switch that out and see what happens
I know mine right now even if i twist the potentiometer nothing happens. i'll go and grab a 10uF cap tomorrow and switch that out and see what happens
Hi Guys: First time posting here but I've been a long time reader and now need some help / advice. My tank is 9 ft long x 30" x 30" I would like to add a wavebox. I can only mount it at one end and would really prefer to attach it to the outside end of the tank and drill a hole through the tank for the pump inlet / discharge. It's 1" acrylic so I can assume its flat and shouldn't have any problem welding the box on. My questions are this. Because of the length of the tank should I use a larger pump like the Tunze 6301 and should I make the actual box larger ? I do not want a large wave because I think it will hit my bracing and overflow or make a mess. I cannot do the centre discharge that Tunze recommends because I have dual overflows at the top, back of the aquarium with an 18" centre space for plumbing, will that have a negative affect on the wave? . Has anyone tried using the 6201 pump on a 9 ft tank ? Is there an optimal depth and side to side location for the inlet / discharge ? With the wavemaker being outside the tank should the box be sealed or would creating a vacuum be detrimental ? This will be the first and only hole drilled in the tank so I want to get it right the first time. Thanks in advance for your advice.
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