do biopellets control phonsphate

Chicago

New member
simple question.. i have read posts hear over and over.. some say yes they controlled their phosphate with it. others say they just conrolled nitrate..

so to the advanced your opinion please.. thank you
 
The reason for the discrepency in peoples results with biopellets is complicated. There is this thing called the Redfield Ratio. Put simply, it describes the optimal ratio nutrients need to be in to be utilized best by bacteria . So, since the nutrient levels of peoples tanks are different, you get different results. If your nitrates and phosphates are in the correct proportion, then when you add the carbon source (biopellets) the bacteria will consume them, lowering your nitrates and phosphates.
All in all, biopellets reduce phosphates to some degree in most systems. Though in a lot of cases not as much as people would like. Another method like GFO or in my case an ATS helps bring the phosphates down further.
 
I have used gfo. But. Wanted to Try pellets. My phosphates are sky high. I'm feeding a lot to keep regals healthy. My Hana showed phosphates at 2.15. Ouch.
 
bio pellets will reduce nitrate and phosphate until one source cannot sustain the others uptake...

they require both to work.. so if you strip the tank of nitrate yet still have phosphate leftover, it cannot pull anymore, and gfo would be required to bring the level down further.

Likewise... if you strip the tank of phosphate yet still have nitrates showing, you will need to find a source of phosphate to help fuel the bacteria and continue to bring down nitrates
 
yea, generally speaking if people have an imbalance of phosphates (meaning not enough nitrates to keep them down completely) you can dose amino acids (which add nitrates) or use gfo to get the remaining phosphate out

I generally prefer a recirculating reactor for them... so far the one I built has been working great... and once my levels are back down around where I want them I'll be able to dial in how much water it filters all while maintaining a good turnover on the pellets to prevent clumping
 
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That's why you keep them tumbling, not static, to prevent buildup... many people will still clean it out periodically... plus it's a function of the pellet itself

It's a different environment for bacteria then one would get with bioballs.. which are static and the water flows over the outside of them... bioballs increase surface area for bacteria that process ammonia and nitrites... converting them to nitrate...

bio pellets on the other hand are there to satisfy the redfield ratio for other bacteria types... where a bioball is just plastic.. a biopellet is a carbon source for the bacteria (just like when people are dosing vodka.. or vinegar or sugar) The carbon source aids in fulfilling the redfield ratio for the bacteria to properly utilize the available nitrate and phosphate in the system... which is generally 106 parts carbon, 16 parts nitrate, 1 part phosphate.. that is how one factor can become the limiting point in the equation...
 
One heads up, you definitly need a good skimmer when using biopellets just as when dosing VSV. The export of the nutrients is done by the skimmer pulling out the bacteria.

Why i write this is because i cant see a skimmer in your equipment signature.
 
Hi Chicago

The amount of Po4 taken up from a carbonmedia is very small.

I would only use this for N problems, do u have that ?

If u have to high P, do more waterchanges, use Rowa or Lanthanum.

Regards
Peder
 
A "Good" Skimmer is a must or you'll have a bacterial bloom. The common negative side effect is cloudy water if you have an excessive build up of bacteria in the water column. Biopellets will also bring down your pH due to this increasing of the amount of aerobic & anaerobic bacteria in the system. The excess bacteria bring the Carbon Dioxide in your system up, which is why the pH drops. Fresh air through your skimmer or injecting Ozone through your skimmer are good ways to combat this problem.

(This is how I understood it. Someone correct me if I'm wrong) :)
 
Also the use of Biopellets is not immediate. It takes some time for it to kick in and start working for you. Something like 2-8 weeks. Every system is different.
 
The reason that some people don't see a drop in po4 is not because they don't have the right ratio between nutrients. There are several types of bacteria that can utilize carbon and "eat" no3,po4. The type of bacteria that grows on the pellets does depend on the ratio between the nutrients. Some bacteria need more nitrates and some need less..smae thing with phosphates. At some point one type of bacteria will take over. That means that if you had the perfect coditions for one type of bacteria that uses very little phosphate and all other types of bacteria no longer exist or exist at small amouts you will see very little drop in phosphates. That is the idea behind products like zeobuk that add different types bacteria in order to create the perfect enviroment.
 
Come on - we have a phosfate reading here about 2, biopellets will not fix this.
I do know about redfield ratio, and have personal experience about carbon etc.

Maybe u can ontrol N and P with carbondosing, but in my opinion it takes other measures to remove this much P.

Remember what I write is my opinion - everyone is free to have an other one.

Regards
Peder
 
i understand that. i am using the GFO and water changes to bring down the Phosphate to reduce. just interested in the bio reactor for the future.,. i have deep sand bed in a 300 gallon sump. but again..interested in the bio reactor to assist.
 
i understand that. i am using the GFO and water changes to bring down the Phosphate to reduce. just interested in the bio reactor for the future.,. i have deep sand bed in a 300 gallon sump. but again..interested in the bio reactor to assist.


Hi again,

And thank for clearing that up. Sorry if I misunderstood yr situation - all I wanted was to help u ;)

Best of luck going foreward

Peder
 
no worries.. thanks for the input.. new with the bio pellet thing.. My GFO get solid and frankly my reactor for the GFO is large. my nitrate have been going up and feeding alot so going to try the bio pellet thing... if it is supplementing the sump of 300 gallon (horse trof) can I do the smaller units.. such as a 250 gallon?
 
On such a large system that is already established you will want to start out very slow when you first add the pellets and tumble them very slow as well. I would suggest using Warner marines ecoBak pellets. They are the best IMO. What type of reactor are you planning on using?
 
looking at reef dynamics.. unit for 500 gallons system or the 250 gallons system.. my system used to be heavy dominated sps.. crashed two years ago... just got it back with fish and starting to move towards the sps again.. so need to deal with the phosphate and high nitrates.. was leaning towards the smaller unit.. since if i understand correctly everyone says that they are running bio pellets at half the recomended....
 
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