Do I need to dose?

[RogueGrown]

I have a 20long. All my corals are fully extended happy and growing well. I have zoas a hammer, toadstool, green birdsnest, SMH Monti, and blue sympodium. I did a 15%WC last night then tested. My parameters are...

Sal 1.025
Po4 160 per ULR checker does this mean 1.6ppm?
No3 under 5ppm API
Ca 340 salifert
Mg 1050 salifert
Alk 11 salifert

If everything looks happy should I even try controlling it or is it necessary to raise Ca Mg and lower my Po4 and Alk?

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[sde1500]

I'd bring up CA and Mag, but then just see what it does. Zoas don't really use too much, so water changes will more than likely keep up, but doesn't hurt to bring the levels up to where you want them as well.

 

[mcgyvr]

You dose
when the water changes alone cannot keep parameters where they need to be/stable based on the rate of consumption..
plain and simple..

What salt brand are you using though?.. I might look into changing that..
Or more specifically what is cal/alk/mag in a newly mixed batch of saltwater
Cal and mag are lowish in whatever you are using unless something else is going on there.. alk is totally fine and in fact a little high compared with the current trends of staying more in the 8-9ish range..

 

[RogueGrown]

I'm using IO. Im nearing the end of my bucket and have been looking into different salts. Im torn between Red sea or Reef crystals. I find a huge part of the community is still using IO though. I do have kent purple tech but so far I haven't been a believer of it.

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[RogueGrown]

Regarding the ULR checker.... I take my reading and divide by 1000 correct?

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[RogueGrown]

What are good trusted brands I should look for when it comes to dosing?

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[kevin21]

I use kent tech m for magnesisum, kent turbo calcium, and kent alk buffer. Have zero issues with either. I do 5g weekly water changes on my 28g and I really never need to dose. I use reef crystals. Think of it this way, the more LPS and skeletons you have, the more calcium that will be consumed. Sometimes you may need to dose calcium/mag on top of your water changes. Now, if you have an Auto top of system going, get your calcium at 460-480, mag at 1400, and alk at 8.3 and then add kalk to your auto top off container. Read Sk8r stickies/blog entries on this and itll give you a nice crash course. If you dose alk, your levels will stay consistent.

 

[ryeguyy84]

I believe with the Phosphorus Checker you multiply by 3.066 than divide by 1000. so in your case .49056ppm would be the number.

Still high, but not 1.6ppm high

and as mcgyvr said test your newly mixed water so see what you're starting with.

 

[JUNBUG361]

^above comment numbers make sense than 1.6ppm. Also with cal & alk need to increase

 

[crawlerman]

Your consumption is probably low. Get your calcium and mag up to where you want them. I like 430-450 for calcium and 1350 for mag. If everything is happy with alk at 11 and that is close to what your newly mixed salt is just leave it there. As long as you aren't running ULN it's fine. Once you get everything where you want it test it a day later to make sure everything is mixed. then test 48 hours later to figure out your daily consumption. If anything is changing you can use the instructions on the supplements to see how much you need to add. I have mostly frags so I only need to dose for alk between water changes. I add the kent alk buffer into my ATO to keep it stable.

 

[mcgyvr]

What are good trusted brands I should look for when it comes to dosing?

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No need IMO to pay up for smaller bottles of "branded" premixed dosing chemicals,etc..
I just go bulk from BRS and mix my own.. Its VERY..very easy..
I just use old distilled gallon water/milk jugs and whip up a gallon at a time and it will last a LONG time depending on your dosage amounts..

Sodium bicarbonate for alk
calcium chloride for cal
magnesium sulfate for mag
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/calcium-alkalinity-trace-elements/brs.html

and some good reading on making your own from those chemicals..
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-02/rhf/

and a calculator here for an "approximation"..
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/reef-calculator

 

[RogueGrown]

At the moment I'm in LA for the weekend. I made new water last night before I left. I will test it before I do my water change when I get home. My tank is in good hands with everything they need to keep my salinity in check.

What would 49056ppm equate to as far as po4 is concerned? I did add a bag of chemi pure elite to one of my HOB last Wednesday and it appears to be doing the trick as my ULR blinked 200.

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[RogueGrown]

No need IMO to pay up for smaller bottles of "branded" premixed dosing chemicals,etc..
I just go bulk from BRS and mix my own.. Its VERY..very easy..
I just use old distilled gallon water/milk jugs and whip up a gallon at a time and it will last a LONG time depending on your dosage amounts..

Sodium bicarbonate for alk
calcium chloride for cal
magnesium sulfate for mag
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/calcium-alkalinity-trace-elements/brs.html

and some good reading on making your own from those chemicals..
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-02/rhf/

and a calculator here for an "approximation"..
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/reef-calculator

Thank you for these links. I will go over them this weekend and put an order in as soon as I get home.

I just bought another AI prime HD to get more coverage, that'll be waiting in my office when I get back.

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[kurt_n]

...
What salt brand are you using though?.. I might look into changing that..
Or more specifically what is cal/alk/mag in a newly mixed batch of saltwater
...

Agree with this. Measure your new saltwater and compare with your tank. I'm guessing it'll be the same. If that's true, no need for dosing.

But you do want to get those cal/mag levels up. Easiest way to do that is change your salt - if you're using IO now, I'd just switch to Reef Crystals. Readily available, and it will get you where you need to go. Several large water changes will be easier than trying to add XX ml of this and XX ml of that, and hoping you don't screw things up too bad in the process!

 

[crawlerman]

At the moment I'm in LA for the weekend. I made new water last night before I left. I will test it before I do my water change when I get home. My tank is in good hands with everything they need to keep my salinity in check.

What would 49056ppm equate to as far as po4 is concerned? I did add a bag of chemi pure elite to one of my HOB last Wednesday and it appears to be doing the trick as my ULR blinked 200.

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200 is the max reading on the ULR checker. take that number and multiply by .03066. So your phosphate level is higher than .6. This is what happened to me. API said zero but the Hannah had me maxed. Most SPS guys shoot for .02-.04 for good color. There are exceptions, some just ignore phosphates and let them run high. But they are the minority. For me high phosphate browns out acros.

 

[carrots]

"If everything looks happy should I even try controlling it or is it necessary to"

IMO stick with what is working for your tank:water changes. Start messing with a good thing and you will start adding stress to a hobby that is supposed to be relaxing and fun.

 

[billdogg]

I use BRS bulk chemicals for all my dosing needs. I mix up Calcium and Alkalinity solutions 7+ gallons at a time and store them in plastic water jugs from wallyworld that have spigots. Make refilling my dosing containers easy, and I only have to mix bulk every few months.

I have found that the easiest way to mix them is to measure the correct amount of dry and then add it to a large mixing container (5g bucket) filled with the correct amount of water. Drop in a old power head and come back in about 30 minutes to nicely dissolved product ready to use.

Oh - I use IO and/or OIRC for salt - Foster&Smith will ship it to my door for as cheap or cheaper than anybody else. The fedex guy hates me.