Do these exist?

CrayolaViolence

New member
I am looking for some type of brace to fit my 180, to attach my FHO lights to which are only 48 inches long. Hanging the lights not only makes me nervous, but I live in a mobile home. They only use 2x2 for the ceiling joists and I would not want to try and put anything with weight pulling on those joists. Yes I could run a board across several, and have done this in the past, but again, you are hoping that you hit the middle of those joists each time and you may or may not be and in the end still have a disaster.

What I need is a brace to run cross ways 25 inches, from to back that is wide enough for the light to sit on and attach the legs to as they would the edge of the aquarium. I have mocked up a drawing. I'm no engineer, and straight lines fail me, give me paint that's another story. But, this is a rough design of what I'm needing. It would be great if it was even adjustable, such as could do 18-30 inches wide or whatever, so it could be adjust exactly and not move around. And then you could slide it to anywhere on the tank up and down the length, to accommodate various sized lights or whatever you wanted to hang over the tank. While this kind of brace may not exist in the aquarium industry, I was hoping it might exist elsewhere. Preferable made of plastic or plexiglass of some sort, not metal since it would rust.


Anyhow here is my drawing to give you an idea what I'm talking about.
 

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The black square represents the aquarium from the top, the two blue lines the braces and how they would be positioned. The drawing is a rough idea of how it would mount over the edge. The screw would be rubber tipped so it could be tightened against the glass to keep the unit from sliding around.
 
Is your tank in front of a wall? A couple wall mounted rails/brackets extending over the tank like in your diagram might work if that were the case.
 
wood could serve if finished with thick poly, and it's easier to work. Metal, again, has to be primed, then coated in poly, and aluminum is about the only metal besides gold and silver that won't corrode superfast if there's a weak spot in the coating. Plastic if thick enough not to bend under the weight. Beyond that, use an L shaped notch to make a foot that will (upside down) sit on the rim and extend over the outside on both sides: that way it won't travel. Saws and screws will make your basic shape. And tiny triangles of the material on the inside of your top joints will make it much stronger.
 
Is your tank in front of a wall? A couple wall mounted rails/brackets extending over the tank like in your diagram might work if that were the case.


Yes it is, but it's the same problem as with the ceiling. I don't have 2x4s in the walls. I would not trust them to hold. Plus I would like to be able to move them out of my way if need be.
 
wood could serve if finished with thick poly, and it's easier to work. Metal, again, has to be primed, then coated in poly, and aluminum is about the only metal besides gold and silver that won't corrode superfast if there's a weak spot in the coating. Plastic if thick enough not to bend under the weight. Beyond that, use an L shaped notch to make a foot that will (upside down) sit on the rim and extend over the outside on both sides: that way it won't travel. Saws and screws will make your basic shape. And tiny triangles of the material on the inside of your top joints will make it much stronger.


I was hoping for something made of plastic or plexiglass material.

I see all kinds of rails but they are only for LED lighting and are so thin there would be nothing for the legs of these lights to attach to. I need something with some width (height) to it on the cross beam.
 
Your city should have a dealer who sells plexi. Cutting plexi is not too hard with the right saw, but they might do it for a small charge. The only fault with plexi is that it bends if not thick, and bends over time if warmed. But it might work: seek the plexi seller's advice and use proper glues.
 
Your city should have a dealer who sells plexi. Cutting plexi is not too hard with the right saw, but they might do it for a small charge. The only fault with plexi is that it bends if not thick, and bends over time if warmed. But it might work: seek the plexi seller's advice and use proper glues.


I was really hoping I could find something pre-made. Mostly because if I make it, it will void my warranty on my tank. If a manufacturer makes it, then the warranty is good.

If I made it myself I'd use plexiglass or plastic beams that are high heat resistant. There are a lot of plastics that will not bend even when very, very hot. I can't believe there isn't something out there already I could use. I mean I can't be the only one who has a tank larger than the lights and needs a way to hold them up. And when suspension isn't an option due to the walls, or also in my case, there is nothing to attach a cable or tie to on the top of the light to hold it up.
 
Shouldn't void the warranty if you just set it on the rim. If it has opposing L feet (turn that L upside down) it will not wobble off. You could also look for a canopy for the tank, and attach the lights inside the canopy.
 
Why not just use electrical conduit, bent Radius 90 screw to stand with pipe brackets and call it a day? I have a 8x48w ATI powermodule hanging above my tank on one I made for less than $20, with the ATI hanging kit it's goes up and down out of the way super easy.

Been going 3+ years and no budging.. That's no walls or ceilings to screw into and just use your stand.. And it looks super clean I can take a pic when I get home if you want..

There is something similar to what you want ( kinda) at the cheap Chinese places like aquatraders and I think ocean revive or reef radiance who sell Chinese leds lights..they are square stock metal and telescope to your desired length..
 
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Shouldn't void the warranty if you just set it on the rim. If it has opposing L feet (turn that L upside down) it will not wobble off. You could also look for a canopy for the tank, and attach the lights inside the canopy.

Yeah, I hate canopies. And while it should not void the warranty, I called and asked. It would.
 
Why not just use electrical conduit, bent Radius 90 screw to stand with pipe brackets and call it a day? I have a 8x48w ATI powermodule hanging above my tank on one I made for less than $20, with the ATI hanging kit it's goes up and down out of the way super easy.

Been going 3+ years and no budging.. That's no walls or ceilings to screw into and just use your stand.. And it looks super clean I can take a pic when I get home if you want..


This is a good idea.


Yeah, I hate canopies. And while it should not void the warranty, I called and asked. It would.


Just curious what you are afraid of doing to the tank that would cause a warranty related issue?
 
Can the frame of a mobile home support a 180g tank?

The floor structure of a mobile home, a modern one, is made of steel beams and 8x12's, usually thee, that serve as the base for floor joist, bolted to the outside and inside outer beam. Mobile homes, newer ones like mine, are built no different than stick built houses a lot of people buy in single family subdivisions. If anything, they are wired better, and they have a cross beam steel base they are built onto which is far, far stronger than the standard 2x6 floor structure of many new houses built by construction companies. Once the mobile home is set down, onto blocks, they drive steel anchors into the ground. Because they are top light, rather than top heavy like a house.

Mobile homes are built so they can be moved, and unlike a house, it is far less likely to suffer structural damage when moved because the walls are meant to flex. That flex is possible due to the 2x3 rather than 2x4s they use. The studs in the walls of this house are on 16 inch spaces and even 12 inch in some areas. I know this because I have removed some of the walls to open up rooms. The average modern house has studs spaced 18-24. Usually 24 centers (especially commercial built ones). So while the beams may be smaller in a mobile home they make it up in number.

My house has been married to the property. Which means it has been permanently affixed to the ground via steel driven anchors (aside from the originals). The walls of my house are as thick as any newer single family home in a middle class neighborhood, because the upper and lower sections of the walls are 2x4 and 2x 6, it's only the internal studs that are 2x3. The extra inches are taken up by external wall board, which act as the shell for siding, etc.

Mobile homes also have to be built at a certain weight limit, so they can be moved on the road. While the walls may be lighter the base will out perform the average modern stick built home by miles.

So in other words, yes. It most certainly can support the weight of a 180 gallon tank, considering my floor is basically the metal support system of a semi.
 
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