Does stable PH + ALK = Great polyps????

MUCHO REEF

2003 TOTM Recipient
Premium Member
Just another discussion topic of great interest. Got the idea for this thread from a post by Delsol650.

Does stable PH + ALK = Great polyps????

So, is it imporatnt or not as it relates to growth, health, etc etc ?

What do you think reefers?

Mucho
 
I think that it is important to have as little fluctuation as possible on these two parameters. It is #5 in your 25 and is one the the most important factors for health and growth. I dose Randy's two part and it is dosed by a peristaltic dosing pump so there is very little, if any, fluctuation.
Good topic idea Honda and Mooch.

I will also ask what others are keeping their Alk level at???
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11434654#post11434654 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by geoxman
I think that it is important to have as little fluctuation as possible on these two parameters. It is #5 in your 25 and is one the the most important factors for health and growth. I dose Randy's two part and it is dosed by a peristaltic dosing pump so there is very little, if any, fluctuation.
Good topic idea Honda and Mooch.

I will also ask what others are keeping their Alk level at???

agree, although I see too many newer people to the hobby thinking as well as being told PH is the important thing and dosing alk to change their PH. WRONG.

I was trying to help someone the other day who's dkh was at 18. somebody told them to keep dosing alk to raise their chronically low ph. :rolleyes:

You dose alk to raise your alk period. If you keep your alk, calcium and mag inline, are promoting good gas exchange via surface agitation, running a skimmer and or sump, as well as have fresh air in the room you dont even need to test your ph. it will be fine
 
From my experience a well fed and well balance reef will always be more fruitful in long run versus one that is all over the place from month to month. Proper Alk and PH are critical for any coral to thrive long term. I test PH maybe once a year because like flyyyguy said if you maintain you Alk, Calcium, Magnesium and have plenty of surface movement for gas exchange then it should not be an issue.

Also, I have heard a lot of LFS tell customers to make sure to keep their Calcium levels up. To a newbie that doesn't help them because they focus only on supplementing Calcium and many times don't understand Alkalinity or the role of Magnesium. Then they don't understand why they can't keep zoanthids alive.

IMO a good Alkalinity test kit is the first line of defense for maintaining good water chemistry. If I could only afford to have one test kit this would be the one.
 
I agree with all of you 100%, but coralfarmer123, man you hit it smack on the head. I was waiting for someone to say this. Every word you said was flat out gospel my brother. I don't feed that much, maybe twice a week, but your comment on the test kit put a smile on my face. Though it's only two lines, your second paragraph was right on. Thanks for sharing it.

I know I'm guilty of posting and talking too much, so I'm just sitting here enjoying all the great stuff you guys are sharing that is good to see, read and hear.


Mucho
 
I also rarely test pH--it is always on the $$$. Although recently with adding Vitamin C, I've been testing more often just to check--same results.
 
I hardly check for nitrates, nitrites and ammonia. But I do check pH, Alk , MAG and Cal.

any time my zoos and palys start looking like crap its usually due to Alk , pH fluctuating...

also stable salinity also is another parameter I monitor a lot, besides your usual temp.
 
I run 7 test every Saturday morning. With the amount of time and money I've invested in my own Biotope, I've learned over the years when and where I can and can't take chances. I have seen tanks crash that were seldom or if ever maintained with minimul attention. I don't believe in tank crashes, only negligence which might lead to a crash. It is for those reasons alone that I am so incredibly retentive when it comes to my reef. I know it is very overbearing/overkill, but I just don't want to hear myself say one day, " if I had only _________?" , after my system takes a dive.

I would agree and say consistent PH & ALK, as the two work together, with marginal fluctuation, even though there is a moderate fluctuation in the wild and we can only do so much to replicate that which we keep, will create a more conducive environment for optimal growth and stability. I set boundaries and I make sure my tank stays within those parameters along with daily inspections and documentation.

Just checked this morning and everythig was within specs.

PH - 8.2 to 8.0, reading today was 8.0
ALK - 8 to 10dkh, reading today was 9.3


Just my 2
 
stable alk, is it to be kept at a certain target from lets say
8- 10dkh or 7-12 dkh. or is it to be kept stable at 8
or 11. Does anybody try to keep the alk at one certain dkh
i'm just trying to get my reef going and was wondering
what i should aim for. my ph is pretty stable around 8.1
8.3 but my alk seems to raise slowly from 9dkh to 11.5
 
You are going to get a wide variety of responses, as everyone has their own ideas and beliefs on this topic. I don't know of anyone who can keep their readings exact 24/7. For me, with a tank full of zoas and palys...PH - 8.2 to 8.0, and ALK - 8 to 10dkh is my target, but I'm usually at readings of 8.0
and 9.3 each week. One reading above or below isn't going to hurt your system at all. If you have a fug/sump on a reverse photoperiod, your PH is have very little if any shift at all as the light on your fug will help stablize and shift in PH when your main system's lights are off.
 
i feel that keeping everything stable is a key..my alk is usally between 8.3-9.3 somewhere in there and my ph is always at 8.2-8.3..i use the two part and since then i have really got things a lot more stable than they were...and since that time my zoas that i had have never looked better
 
reverse photo period in the refugium. i think i'll give it
a try see what happens. sounds like stability is the key
thanks
 
I used to run reverse photo when I had a fuge. still had some fluctation issues. Now I just ensure my top off is on the $$$ before I use it to ensure it keeps my tank #'s on par.
 
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