Down the drain

[Crayonbreaker]

ell I am at my witts end, I can not figure out what is wrong in my tank now my RBTA wont open and my GSP still has not open. I have perfect water (tested with mulitiple kits) and everything seems to be getting worse. Do i just change out as much water as possible and start fresh? I am open to anything at this point...

Every fish has ich and or fin rot and the RBTA looks like crapola and wont open and the GSP has not been open for a week and it all seems to have started when it got warm out side.

Water is at 79 and 1.022 grav
all test read 0 and calc and dkh are good.

I run 500 watts of light for 10 hours and have not run power heads now for 3 days as my fish seemed to be slowly getting better tell today.

Lastly I have tested for other out side things i thought could be a issue like chlorine i am at a loss as to what to do..

tank info

44 long with 33 sump
500 watts of light
79 degrees
No power heads as of right now just a return of 200 gallons
crystal clear water

Some one come up with something to help me please

 

[demonsp]

Flow. You need flow or water movement for proper O2 exchange and so they can feed from filtering the food you add.The BTA would like raw shrimp placed in the tenticales weekly.
Look here.

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/1/aafeature/view

http://ca.answers.yahoo.com/answers2/frontend.php/question?qid=20071119115630AAlyAP7&show=7

http://www.asira.org/caresheets

 

[sahnee]

WOW, I see you have been in saltwater for 1 year and no flow? Are you running a skimmer atleast, just asking since there isn't really flow in your tank? If no, are you doing atleast 10% water changes in the tank once a week? So many questions to ask, I would ask if you know what is your ORP at but I doubt it was tested.

 

[demonsp]

OMG i suggested flow and someone agreed.I think i feel a tear drop forming.

 

[sabbath]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12216203#post12216203 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by demonsp
OMG i suggested flow and someone agreed.I think i feel a tear drop forming.

Might be a 5 gallon tank? Then he would be good!!!!

Just kidding lol

 

[airinhere]

Maybe you should add a wavemaker

























(I am just messing with you Demonsp). LOL


Crayonbreaker, you are taking on a difficult species (anemone) and are admiting to being relativley new to reefkeeping.

I think your choice of species to keep is making your decision to run a succesful reef much more difficult.

Issues I can see.
SG of 1.022 is pretty low for anything except fish. Anemonies should not do very good at this salinity, and if your method of measuring the salinity is not very accurate, you could be hyposalinating your whole tank pretty severly.
(Many people reduce sg to 1.018 in order to kill invertebrate life such as ich parasites).

readings of 0 for ammonia and nitrite are expected. Anything else is indicitave of serious issues.

Readings of 0 for nitrates or phosphates is a difficult to achieve goal for many reefkeepers out there. (Contrary to popular belief, nominal readings of either is not directly toxic to corals or fish. Each might have indirect issues that can arise, but neither is cause for outright death unless readings are very high.)

pH, dKH, calcium and other related minerals each have target zones and need to be maintained carefully. Any of these being off by very much is probably going to drive all the other readings out of whack.

ORP only aplies if you are running an ozonizer. Useless reading otherwise.

Flow....... Corals depend on water movement to provide fresh water for them to respirate. Unless you create a satisfactory method of water movement, the corals will suffocate themselves under the layers of slime they excrete and will use all of the oxygen up in the areas directly surrounding them.

Please turn your pumps on and never turn them off. Your corals depend on you for their survival.

Proper use of flow can be expanded to include detrius suspension, optimized flow and a myriad other pursuits, but the absoulute rule is that you must have flow to keep your corals alive.

Fin rot and Ick are nasty illneses to deal with. Unless you describe what fish you have, nobody can do very much to help you out. (Maybe reconsider buying from your LFS for the time being).

Info we could really use.

Age of tank?
did you fill with RO or RO/DI water?
Waterchange water is RO, RO/DI?
Filtration? Skimmer?
Additives? Supplements?
Exact readings of parameters....
Newest additions to tank?

 

[Philwd]

Your tank is obviously stressed. The fishes condition is a definite give away. You listed your params as absolutes but the swings may also be a cause. Particularly temp. Is your tank on a controller?

One other thing that is a longshot but I've seen it. You may have something that died. Depending on what it is it may not show up on your tests. Sponge for example. When it dies it can release some nasty toxins. I've seen decaying sponge take out more than 1 tank.

It probably can't hurt at this stage to do a really big water change.

Oh and I completely agree with the others. Never turn off your flow. Particularly now with your fish having ich. It will be in their gills making respiration difficult. They need all the O2 they can get. And the SG of 1.022 is only appropriate for fish only tanks. Invertebrates will be stressed by that level.

 

[blufish]

Re: Down the drain

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12215702#post12215702 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Crayonbreaker
I have perfect water (tested with mulitiple kits) and everything seems to be getting worse.

This is a common assumption that people new to the hobby make. Just because you tested your water for a few different chemicals doesn't mean your water is perfect. There are a lot of substances that are impractical to test for. For instance, do you know what your dissolved O2 levels are? Your C02 levels? Copper? Iron? Mg? DOC?

When in doubt, do a water change.

 

[sjames]

I would inspect all your equipment for damage or excessive wear.

 

[liveforphysics]

Possible electric shock. It's suprizingly common, and it causes an invisible havoc on a tank.

Water motion is life in a reef. If things look better with the powerheads out of the water, perhaps a power head was shorting inside and causeing a shock.

Standard recovery procedure:

As large of water change as you have means to do.

Change carbon.

Get as much water motion as you can provide. For something cheap that moves a shocking amount of water, try koralla 4's. Great silent little cheap pump that only draws 15w.