Downdraft Skimmer in my 10G Sump

New discovery! You can control how wet or dry this skimmer is skimming by controling the exit rate of the water. I placed several small pieces of live rock in front of the exit slot, and raised the foam head pressure considerably. I plan to re-do the skimmer and add a ball valve for the exit instead of just having a slot in the bottom. This way i can fine tune the output. I got the idea from reading an article on skimmers by Anthony Calfo.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=554786
Very interesting info in this thread, worth a read.
 
I wonder if you couldn't accomplish something similar by using a powerhead to recirculate the water back into the skimmer box.

Anyhow, I have finally gotten my skimmer working again, and it is doing pretty well. The skimmate isn't as dark (kind of a watered down coke color), but it is definately making good foam and pulling some nasty out of the water.

Seriously, I would like to see the results of people with a lot more skimmer experience then I have playing with this idea. I think this could make a major change in the way we do skimming in tanks with sumps.
 
Downdraft Skimmer Updates

Downdraft Skimmer Updates

As I said in my last post, I would like to see some major research and experimentation done in the area of downdraft skimmers. I think they provide so many benefits at so little cost.

I will get on that soapbox soon. For now, let me report some of my findings, so that it might help others later. My downdraft skimmer experiment has been pretty interesting.

Please keep in mind that ALL of this process was severely hampered by the fact that I came into this with NO experience with skimmers. Yeah, I am a little nuts. And I need to save the $$$.

Chapter 1: The Original Downdraft Skimmer

As I described at the start of this thread, I created a downdraft skimmer for my 29G tank (w/ 10G sump). And it just worked great.

It basically consisted of nothing more then a acrylic box into which the water from my main tank overflow dumped. There was a riser tube for which foam to rise into. And there was an inverted funnel attached to a clear tube that allowed foam to exit the system.

There was, however, a couple of "flaws" in the system. First of all, the way it worked, as you read above in this thread, a powerhead and air pump were required to get foam rising properly. Secondly, the way I attached the drain input, and foam riser tubes to the top of the skimmer caused about a half inch of air to collect at the top of the skimmer box.

On account of these issues, I decided to experiment with things some to see if I could either:

    A. Improve Skimmer Production
    B. Eliminate the Powerhead and/or Air Pump

Chapter 2: Causing Myself Pain and Agony

Ok. This pain came in two parts.

First, I got some limewood airstones in the mail and tried them in the skimmer box. I removed the powerhead and added just the limewood airstone. Well, the result was that I got foam, but not the same kind of dry foam that was spitting through the tube and creating chewing tobacco spit colored skimmate. I mean the original stuff was dark and nasty. But the only thing I was getting with the new airstone was relatively clear. It still stunk a bit, so I could tell I was getting something.

Anyhow, so I decided to work on issue #2 - the air collection at the top of the box. You see, I had attached the two tubes going out of the top of the box by taking 1/2" slices of PVC couples and glueing them to a short stuf of PVC pipe that was stuck through the 2 holes in the top of the skimmer box. That left a 1/2" piece of PVC/coupling extending down into the skimmer box. Well, that section would catch the air and causing it to build, and the gush, build and then gush.

Apparently, that might have been a good thing in the "get dark skimmate" department.

I THOUGHT that the air collection up there was bad. So I basically used a stick and a half of two part aquarium epoxy to fill in the space at the top of the skimmer box that was gathering air. In fact, I even "landscaped" the epoxy a bit to sort of make an concave section around the foam riser area. Basically, I wanted to force ALL of the air to go up the tube.

So I got all of this done and decided to try it out. The next week or so was kind of blurry. Basically, I didn't get any quality skimmate until the last couple of days.

I experimented with powerheads... Without powerheads... With airstones... Without airstones.... Every-freaking-thing!

In the long run I have settled with the powerhead (maxijet) in the box upside down. I have it situated so that when the water/air bubbles rush into the box from the tank overflow, they fall directly onto the powerhead intake screen. This causes the powerhead to suck in the bubbles and chop them up wonderfully. I also have a limewood airstone in the skimmer box, pumping some pretty good air in as well.

And for the last couple of days I have been getting better skimmate. I still have not got the nasty dark stuff that I got at first. However, I have been getting sort of a coffee to waterred down coffee colored skimmate.

Analysis

First of all, I am sure the axiom applies here: If it's not broke, don't fix it. However, in the interest in the continual improvement of this hobby, I am glad I played around and have made these varied mistakes.

First, I suspect that the air section at the top of the skimmer box was actually a GOOD THING. Before I added the epoxy, foam would leave the box as it was very solidly propelled upward by the gurgling motion. The gurgling actually created quite a bit of force, sort of more "selectively" ejecting foam from the skimmer.

Now, with the epoxy, there is a CONSTANT gurgle going on that basically causes more regular ejection of foam. While this is still putting out good skimmate, and maybe just as much organic matter, it comes at the cost of losing more water from the tank.

As for the airstones, powerhead, etc...

First of all, let me note that supposedly a tank with flow on the order of 1000+ GPH should be able to successfully use a downdraft skimmer with no extra airstones or powerheads required. This, of course, is the real coup here - no extra pumping, heat, or power required for skimming.

With my small tank, however, something more was required.

The best discovered I made was that instead of putting a cheap walmart airstone in the powerhead input screen, the powerhead input should simply be pointed up. After all, the drain is causing plenty of air to enter the system - we just need to use that air more effectively.

Limewood airstones, of course, do create good fine bubbles. Not all are created equally, however, as one of the two brands I tried created pretty large bubbles. Could have just been a fluke or something.

I suspect if I hadn't added the epoxy, I could eliminate the powerhead and allow the gurgling to provide the extra force required to eject foam well. As it works now, the airstone really helps the system to a nice tall head of foam.

Another quick comment. Dugg suggested, while chatting one day, that the foam/skimmer output may have simply been disturbed by the curing of the aquarium epoxy. He relayed some stories about painting a house and having his skimmer stop working for a couple of weeks after that due to stuff in the air.

Where To Next???

First, I am leaving the current skimmer box alone. It's working and, despite my desire to get this downdraft skimmer thing perfected, I REALLY do need it working on my tank.

So I am probably going to get some more acrylic scrap from the LGS (Local Glass Shop... :) ) and build another couple skimmer boxes. One I am going to build exactly like the first. The second, I am going to build like the first to start out, and then I am going to cut some teeth or holes in the PVC pipe/coupling sticking into the skimmer box from the foam riser tube. I am wondering if something like this might be some sort of a compromise between the gurgling and the current setup. If all else fails, it should probably be an easier way to recreate what I have working now, without using all that epoxy.

I would also like to experiment with some powerheads of different strengh. Right now I am using a Maxi-Jet 600. I would love to see how stepping up and down a notch or two would change things.

Request for Help, etc

First, if anyone with REAL experience with skimmers has any comments, input, criticism, etc, please speak up. I would love to hear your thoughts.

Secondly, I would like to see some more people experimenting with this idea. Downdraft skimmers are good for our tanks. They take less power to run, skimmer a higher percentage of the tank water, and are just all around awesome. I think that a real contribution to this hobby could be made by experimenting around with these enough to figure out how to make them work more easily. I think, in the long run, that these could be trivially simple little items.

And they'd save a whole lot of money, too... :)

Perhaps sometime I will write my thoughts about this a little more intelligently then just saying that they are "just all around awesome". But I do need to go now... :)

Thanks for your time and energy!
 
Yet Another Update.

Dugg - that thread you pointed me towards by Anthony Calfo & gang did prove to be very illuminating. It definately will cause me to rethink many things about the way I implented this skimmer.

Who knows what the future may hold! :)
 
Glad you are so enthusiastic about this project Paul. After reading the thread from Anthony, i am convinced we are on the right track here to build a better skimmer using the surface overflow water instead of taking in random water from the sump using a pump or powerhead. I feel like this hobby is being taken advantage of by the companies that are building current skimmers that cost hundreds of dollars for a product that cost pennies to build, just because it is a nessesary item to keep our tanks healthy.

When you get started on your next attempt, Put some real thought into controling the exit rate of the water from the skimmer. Blocking my exit a little really made a huge difference in the foam head pressure, also the water bottle riser has been a huge improvement. I have cut 3 different height bottles, for wet, medium, and dry skimming. I think a ball valve glued on the box for an exit instead of just a slot in the bottom will make a huge difference in adjusting the foam, so the different height bottles won't be needed. Maybe even a 90* elbow on the inside attached to the back side of the ball valve to help keep the micro bubbles from coming out the exit hole might also help.

As for attaching the PVC to the acrylic, PVC cement works really good. It takes a few minutes to set up, but is very solid when it sets up. No need the pinch the acrylic between 2 fittings.

Another idea i got from talking to wayne the other day, is to use a large pump (1000 gph) that doesn't run through the tank, but instead just runs from the sump to the downpipe, creating the amount of flow and air needed to run the skimmer more efficiently. I don't have an extra pump to try this with, but maybe if someone in COMAS has an extra pump you could borrow it to experiment with. You would need a T in the 2" pipe with a reducer on it to fit a line coming from the extra pump. I know this defeats the purpose of doing away with the extra pump needed to run a normal skimmer, but may create a super skimmer of sorts for small systems if it would work. You shouldn't need any added air going this route, so it does save some.

Thanks for jumping in the guinea pig pen with me here. The more the merrier. Maybe when we perfect this, we can sell our $10 skimmers for $800 each and retire lol. Oh i forget, i'm already retired lol but maybe we can retire and be rich lol. We'll save the last detail for the patent office and the comas club ;)
 
I have been thinking about a couple of changes as well. For instance, I have been contemplating replacing the funnel with a traditional collection cup. I haven't really decided. I am probably going to think about it for a couple of days...
 
So in a way this is working like a becket skimmer by injecting the water into the skimmer using gravity and also using the mirco bubbles already being formed. Yes or no?

Is the skimmer top to the outside bottle connection air tight so that a vaccum is formed?
 
Willy18T: Yes, this is attempting to create the require bubbles using the force of gravity. On my small tank, this is not terribly successful - thus the requirement of adding airstones and powerhead.

As for the vaccum question, I don't completely understand what you mean. Can you rephrase?

Travis: I suspect that anything that caused finer bubble production would be an improvement. I think, however, improvements will be more easily made through:

1. Getting nastier water to the skimmer. For me, since I already have a nice long (1/3 of the back of the tank) horizontal overflow, this should be easily accomplished by creating a new "insert" for the overflow that is straight - eliminating the teeth. This is all about skimming a nice thin surface of the top of the tank water column off, as this is where all organic material in the water is going to naturally migrate. Read Anthony's thread on skimmer improvement for that. See expert forum: All Things Salty.

2. Increasing the pressure in the skimmer box. This will be accomplished by eliminating all openings in the bottom of the box and forcing water to leave the skimmer via a gate valve that can be closed and openned. Again, see Anthony Calfo's skimmer production improvement thread.

3. Creating a new foam riser tube with a more traditional collection cup. I am suspicious that the crazy (but very COOL) funnel tube and vertically extending tube we are using causes the skimmer to have to work extra hard to get skimmate out of the water. Actually, for V2 of my skimmer, I am going to create one riser tube using each design (traditional and inverted funnel), so I can experiment with how effective the funnel REALLY is. Right now, there are TOO MANY screwed up parts. I need to fix some of those, and then see where to go next.

4. Getting an air pump more appropriate for use in an air driven skimmer. The $10 walmart pump ain't hacking it and will be replaced with either a TetraTec Deep or a Luft.

Anyhow, there is my plan.

Unforunately, I am limited by lack of funds to buy such things. Hopefully I can afford parts 1-3 sooner, as they are less expensive and I can use my existing pump for now, or even by a second $10 pump and T them together. And then I can add the better pump later...

P.S. If anyone has a luft pump they would like to give/loan me... :)
 
Paul, don't waste your money on the tetra tec deep.I have been through a few of them and they always got noisy pretty quick. If you look around you can find a luft for around $39. The luft can be repaired with new diaphrams and will last forever.
 
Travis L. Stevens said:
Would adding the bioball mod on the maxijet increase finer bubble production and increase your skimmate productivity?

Travis - I have finally got around to looking up the bioball / maxijet mod. And, well, it looks like it has some serious potential. I am going to try this as part of phase I of my new skimmer. It might help me avoid buying a $45 pump.

Thanks!
 
I thought that I was going to get cute this weekend and add the bioball mod to my skimmer. I went through some pretty extensive lengths to get one. Pre-Thanks to Jena and Scott from Aquarium Oddballs. Only to go home excited from a 1 hour drive that I might make my skimmer run even better only to clip up the bulk of a bioball and open up my pump to see that it already had a needle wheel. I was so disappointed.
 
How tall should i make the riser??? It is 2 in diameter.

My box is 6Wx 8Lx 12H, with an air pump w/ two air stones. My drain for the box is a 1" ball valve that is 90 degreed up with an extension to make the water level between 12.5 and 13" (.5 to 1" above the box) on my drain coming from the tank (2X 1" into one) i put a 45 degree coupler on the inside of the box to kind of redirect the bubbles towards the riser tube.

Anything else you guys can think of, please let me know. I will be hooking it up tomorrow and i will let everyone know how it works.
 
My riser is ABOUT 2" in diameter and is about 8-9 inches tall. However, the funnel is always near the bottom - about 3 inches up. That just clears about an inch past the white PVC.
 
Ok, here is my final version. This thing is working great now. I have a total cost of $50 including the powerhead.
I used the original box that i started with, and cut one of the top corners off at a 45* angle, leaving no flat surface for the bubbles to rest and expand. I used the plumbing design from a Euro reef skimmer. I installed a ball valve in the exit pipe, for adjusting the internal pressure, and plumbed the maxijet 1200 into the box, making it a reccirculating pump. It draws water from the box, and pumps it right back in on a closed loop pipe. It also has a venturi installed, to add air through the intake of the powerhead. I am not using airstones at all now. The venturi pruduces far more bubbles than needed by it's self. The venturi is hooked up to my luft pump, and the bubbles it is producing are far finer then the limewood airstones produce. It is producing about 1 to 1 1/2 cups coffee dark skimmate per day, and is easily adjustable for wet or dry skimming. The powerhead closed loop plumbing is 3/4" PVC, the intake plumbing is 2" PVC, and the exit plumbing is 1 1/4" PVC. I did away with the hose, and added an old collection cup i had laying around. The cup could easily be made with clear PVC. I plan to build a bigger collection cup later, because the foam is blowing the top off of the small one i am using now.

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That sucker is beautiful! I am on hold on my skimmer redo for now as I am planning on upgrading from a 10G to 20G sump sometime in the next couple of months and will have more room for a skimmer at that time.

Nice job! I still need to find one of these good air pumps for a good price.

Btw. Can you describe what you did for the venturi on the Maxijet intake?
 
For the venturi, i used 3/4 pvc and capped it where it meets the powerhead. I drilled a hole in the cap that fits the PH tightly, and drilled a hole just below the bottom of the PH intake. I used an airhose union and glued it in the hole i drilled. None of the PH plumbing is glued together except where it is fitted to the skimmer box. The powerhead can easily be removed for service. I thought i would need to make a needle wheel, but the stock impeller breaks the air up extremely well, so i am sticking with this one.

It is still staying very consistant on production. 1 to 1.5 cups per day. Closer to 1.5 cups. The ball valve is great. It makes it simple to turn the skimmer off during feeding time. Just open it full open, and the foam head drops down out of the riser. Close it back up a little and it is skimming again in seconds. Here is a pic of the skimmer running. It's just the cup because the skimmer it's self is burried in the LR, but you can see the color and the foam quality a little. It does have a good size foot print in my sump, but no prints on the wallet, so i am very pleased with it.
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